Anybody use Rivnuts/Rivet Nuts/Nutserts? Advice?

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  • rang-a-stang
    Administrator
    • Oct 31, 2016
    • 5512

    Anybody use Rivnuts/Rivet Nuts/Nutserts? Advice?

    I am looking to mount my Fuel pump relay and fuse on my firewall in the upper right hand corner. I don't think I can get behind there to hold a nut so I am thinking a Rivnut would work well for me but I have never used them.

    Like these (not necessarily this kit but ones like this):


    I have a hand riveter but its pretty weak so I don't think it would work for me. The way I understand they work, I don't see why I couldn't use a long bolt and a spacer to set the rivnut but I don't see anyone online doing that.
    Kind of a home made version of this tool:
    A rivet nut setter is a manual tool designed for installing rivet nuts. It is specifically useful for installing 8mm x 1.25 screws, which are commonly used for attaching glass clamps to newel posts. The rivet nut setter allows for easy and secure installation of rivet nuts, which provide a threaded insert for securely fastening screws or bolts.


    Anyone have any advice? Anyone use these before? Bad idea to use them?
    Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
    (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
    (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
    79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
    (Cherokee Build Thread)
    11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
    09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
    00 Baby Cherokee
  • babywag
    out of order
    • Jun 08, 2005
    • 10287

    #2
    They work fine. You can use a bolt/nut to expand/install them.
    Used them many many time to repair things like mirror mounts and fender apron mount holes on wrecks when I was an autobody tech.

    Plain ole self-tapping small hex bolts work fine too.
    Tony
    88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

    Comment

    • SJTD
      304 AMC
      • Apr 26, 2012
      • 1956

      #3
      I got a cheapo kit at HF. Works fine for cable and hose clamps type of stuff. I had to move the bulkhead connector in the firewall and it was great for that.

      Comes with assorted aluminum inserts. Idunno if it would be strong enough to set steel inserts.
      Sic friatur crustulum

      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

      Comment

      • joe
        • Apr 28, 2000
        • 22392

        #4
        For hanging light weight stuff like relays those steel ones will work fine.
        joe
        "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

        Comment

        • rang-a-stang
          Administrator
          • Oct 31, 2016
          • 5512

          #5
          Thanks, folks. I see the Harbor Freight one (comes with some inserts). I'll probably grab that on my way home from work.
          Amazing deals on this Threaded Insert Riveter Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

          CHeap tool but comes with some inserts. Since they are holding very lightweight, they should work fine.
          Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
          (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
          (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
          79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
          (Cherokee Build Thread)
          11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
          09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
          00 Baby Cherokee

          Comment

          • babywag
            out of order
            • Jun 08, 2005
            • 10287

            #6
            If you use aluminum inserts be sure to seal the bare steel before install.
            With our close-ish proximity to ocean air they'll start to corrode after a while if you don't
            Tony
            88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

            Comment

            • letank
              AMC 4 OH! 1
              • Jun 03, 2002
              • 4129

              #7
              Originally posted by babywag
              If you use aluminum inserts be sure to seal the bare steel before install.
              With our close-ish proximity to ocean air they'll start to corrode after a while if you don't


              Sorry for the hack, what do you recommend as a sealer?

              Most of the rust damage starts from our rivetted wood trim pieces. I am dewooding the new project and most of the steel rivets have created rusty spots, the newer fender (did not check the year) that I installed had aluminum rivets and no rust.
              Michel
              74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
              85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

              Comment

              • wiley-moeracing
                350 Buick
                • Feb 15, 2010
                • 1430

                #8
                Don't over drill the hole, after drilling use some touch up paint for the area and I use some red lock-tite on the outside of the nut to help hold it in. I then use anti-seize on the bolt going in.

                Comment

                • SJTD
                  304 AMC
                  • Apr 26, 2012
                  • 1956

                  #9
                  I used the smallest hole I could wiggle the insert into. Touched up the holes with "cold galvanizing" paint that I happened to have on hand and put some on the insert and set it while it was wet.

                  Would've just used primer if that were all I had.
                  Sic friatur crustulum

                  '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                  Comment

                  • Crankyolman
                    350 Buick
                    • Sep 27, 2017
                    • 891

                    #10
                    I work on aircraft for a living where rivnuts are common and I absolutely hate those damn things. More than half the time when you go to take a bolt out the damn rivnut spins and it's a huge pain to get out. I'd use a sheetmetal screw long before a rivnut or better yet a nutplate but that does require access to the back side.
                    Last edited by Crankyolman; 02-12-2019, 05:46 AM.
                    '72 J4500

                    Comment

                    • bkilby
                      350 Buick
                      • Jan 10, 2016
                      • 1083

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Crankyolman
                      I work on aircraft for a living where rivnuts are common and I absolutely hate those damn things. More than half the time when you go to take a bolt out the damn rivnut spins and it's a huge pain to get out. I'd use a sheetmetal screw long before a rivnut or better yet a nutplate but that does require access to the back side.


                      But a nutplate is held in with rivets. Lol.



                      I use aluminum rivnuts for smaller stuff (1/4" or less) and steel for larger stuff. On the larger ones, I use pre-bulbed rivnuts. Those have been "pre squished" to help you start the compression process which makes it easier to install. And it has a large foot print on the back to grip better than a standard nut.



                      1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!

                      Comment

                      • letank
                        AMC 4 OH! 1
                        • Jun 03, 2002
                        • 4129

                        #12
                        Originally posted by SJTD
                        I used the smallest hole I could wiggle the insert into. Touched up the holes with "cold galvanizing" paint that I happened to have on hand and put some on the insert and set it while it was wet.

                        Would've just used primer if that were all I had.


                        Thank you, with all the rain that is coming, I need to limit rust progression.
                        Michel
                        74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
                        85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

                        Comment

                        • Probesport
                          232 I6
                          • Apr 15, 2015
                          • 155

                          #13
                          I use them all the time, I have an Astro kit off of amazon that works well.

                          However, if you don't plan on needing thing them a lot, you can always use a rubber well nut which will also give you a little isolation
                          Ken S.
                          Jeep toy: 1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
                          Megasquirt EFI
                          : Heated Seats : Blower fix : Driving light brackets : Shorty headers : Coil Packs : Electric Fans
                          Prior Jeeps: 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
                          Other toys: 1930 Model A (Hotrod), 1997 Ford Probe Turbo, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 2005 VW Touareg

                          Comment

                          • threepiece
                            350 Buick
                            • Sep 17, 2005
                            • 1433

                            #14
                            Rivnut is a registered trade name for a product known as a "blind rivet nut". Like Bondo (also a registered trade name) Rivnuts sometimes have a bad reputation from improper use. Blind rivet nuts are designed to be placed in structure of a certain thickness range. If not within this range they will not hold well. Many, like Rivnuts are intended to be placed in hexogonal or square holes, this is often not done.

                            Rivet nuts are in most applications superior to tapping screws. They offer a much larger load bearing surface than a screw thread. If sized correctly they can hold a considerable load.

                            I like the square style rivet nuts. It is a simple matter to drill the appropriate size hole and touch up the corners with a square file.
                            Last edited by threepiece; 02-14-2019, 08:55 AM.
                            FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
                            We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
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                            Comment

                            • Probesport
                              232 I6
                              • Apr 15, 2015
                              • 155

                              #15
                              There are some really good round hole threaded inserts (rivnut) that work well and have a decent grip range. The ones I use are round hole and work from sheetmetal to plate. If you go round hole application, make sure they are splined and the hole should be as close to the diameter of the smooth portion as possible, tap in the rest so the spline engages prior to compressing and don't overcompress or you'll trash the threaded barrel.
                              Ken S.
                              Jeep toy: 1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
                              Megasquirt EFI
                              : Heated Seats : Blower fix : Driving light brackets : Shorty headers : Coil Packs : Electric Fans
                              Prior Jeeps: 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
                              Other toys: 1930 Model A (Hotrod), 1997 Ford Probe Turbo, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 2005 VW Touareg

                              Comment

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