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  #101  
Old 03-18-2020, 05:36 PM
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I don't pay any attention to the valve cover tags myself. It's so easy and common to swap valve covers for whatever reason. You already have a different intake than factory, so who knows what else is swapped. All that really matters is the 360 on the side of the block.
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  #102  
Old 03-19-2020, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
I don't pay any attention to the valve cover tags myself. It's so easy and common to swap valve covers for whatever reason. You already have a different intake than factory, so who knows what else is swapped. All that really matters is the 360 on the side of the block.




I will try to find the casting number (7 numbers) at the rear top of the block, behind the left cylinder bank...
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  #103  
Old 03-19-2020, 04:19 PM
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If you looked down under your mounts and saw a big 360 cast into the block, that is all you need to know. These trucks don't really get more or less valuable if the engine was original to the truck or not. 401 adds value, 360 and 6cyl are worth about the same. The engine are all almost identical so it doesn't change the way you work on it.
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  #104  
Old 03-20-2020, 10:11 AM
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what a bad afternoon.
from midnight we have a curfew in bavarian for 14 days to contain corona virus infects!


Got my new seals for the exhaust today.

on the left cylinder bank was the wrong seal installed.

the same as on the left side.

between the manifold and the hot valve.
right is a flat gasket. now the exhaust pipe is 1" to short on the right side
the hot valve is without the flat inside! useless!

some fool has cut off the tube and welded it shorter.
the exhaust tube for the left is also welded under the oil pan.

with a pice of about 1,5" extended. smaller diameter, inserted in the two ends.
what a botch
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  #105  
Old 03-20-2020, 10:29 AM
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whats about my rear shocks with pneumatic assitence?
cant find something about in the TSM
rear shocks are with small tube to the tail and there is a valve like in the tires.
How much pressure should be inside?


What is recommended for a lift for 33 or 35 " tires?
My friend ha bought new 35x for his TJ rubicon, the older Cooper SST are ready to try
And my brother has 33x10,5 MT on his TJ, and maybe he need soon more profile for the mud..



The chief im looking for in the autum has 4" lift. a maybe 4" block between the axle and the spring in the rear and long brace support between the axle and the frame
but in the front (spring under axle ) i cant see long spring shackles or intense curved springs...
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  #106  
Old 03-20-2020, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
the hot valve is without the flat inside! useless!





I missed that long post of yours, what a challenge!


Here in Cal we have a voluntary curfew so to speak since Tuesday... but we can work in the garage.


that hot valve called heater valve was basically installed to help the warm up process, but a lot of us have done the hack, because if it malfunctions it is a pain... the heater valve does not really help, I have hacked both heater valve in the 74 and 85. It may take a little extra time to warm up in freezing conditions, but it is not a problem.


As for the shocks, IIRC it will not give you an extra lift, merely firm up the shocks. And YES the installation is a standard,2 plastic hoses going to a shraeder valve (tire valve) installed by rear bumper or the towing hitch. 8 to 10 psi... sorry you will have to convert to whatever the Euro units are;
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
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See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #107  
Old 03-20-2020, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
I missed that long post of yours, what a challenge!


Here in Cal we have a voluntary curfew so to speak since Tuesday... but we can work in the garage.


that hot valve called heater valve was basically installed to help the warm up process, but a lot of us have done the hack, because if it malfunctions it is a pain... the heater valve does not really help, I have hacked both heater valve in the 74 and 85. It may take a little extra time to warm up in freezing conditions, but it is not a problem.


As for the shocks, IIRC it will not give you an extra lift, merely firm up the shocks. And YES the installation is a standard,2 plastic hoses going to a shraeder valve (tire valve) installed by rear bumper or the towing hitch. 8 to 10 psi... sorry you will have to convert to whatever the Euro units are;




Thanks, i dont need the hot valve, I drive the Chief only from april until Oktober, not in the winter.
10 psi are 0,69 bar. will check it soon.
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  #108  
Old 03-20-2020, 02:15 PM
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This is a pic of a walker tube.
the y is vertical, i think it is more space for the driveshaft.
BBy mine is the y horizontal, and the driveshaft toutches the tube when the shocks are all out, like on the car lift

Whats about offroad drive? the driveshaft hits against the tube!
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  #109  
Old 03-20-2020, 02:43 PM
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I think that Y-Pipe in your picture is for a 1980+. The 1979 and down is different to clear the passenger side drive shaft. The 1980 and up has a driver side drive shaft and will not work for you.

I had a Y-Pipe made for my rig at an exhaust shop. It cost me about $250 for everything here in Southern California. I assume you guys have exhaust shops there, too, right? Maybe take some pictures and bring them with your and get a quote. Might be cheaper than trying to make yours work.

I can probably find a used one here in Southern California and send it to you but the shipping would probably make it cheaper for you to just have one made.

My tires are just a tiny bit under 33" (I have 285/75-16's) and they clear with almost no lift. I have heard other say that 33" will fit with no lift under a wide track like ours but I cannot say with certainty they will. I am pretty sure you can get 35" under a 2.5" lift or 4" lift.

I am not a fan of block in my lifts. If I were going to buy a 4" lift, I would save my money fora while and buy a kit with lift springs. Something like one of these:
https://www.bjsoffroad.com/BDS-4-Inc...91_p_1295.html
https://www.bjsoffroad.com/Skyjacker...it_p_1302.html
https://www.4wd.com/p/skyjacker-4-in.../R-BHNG-JP45KS
https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-s...-lift-kit.html
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  #110  
Old 03-21-2020, 01:13 AM
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thanks for your statement
Yes the pic is for a 80+
cant find a us parts shop with a 79 or earliers part like this.
Have to go to the garage of my brother (it is corona allowed) and make the old proper


No the winter ins back. Slight snowfall, windy...


Im searching for the coolant recovery bottle and the windshild washer bottle. Both are missing .

have placed a advertisment in the "look for parts" too..


The exhaust is finished for now..

the complete exhaust is one piece welded, no clambing piece.

Maybe in the future a job to make it better and replace the front pipe or complete.
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Last edited by wincher : 03-21-2020 at 07:47 AM.
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  #111  
Old 03-22-2020, 06:24 AM
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Distributor

At page 1A-23 of the 1978 jeepshopmanuelcomplete is a chart for the distributors.
The 360 Automatic should have a 3231341 type.


I have a prestolite 322 0 (or 8?) 265. further number: 1 DJ4001F 18 6
ist this type ok?
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  #112  
Old 03-22-2020, 06:51 AM
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sunday morning time look for the electrical desaster.
Alone in the garage. corona distance was warranted.
Did the 1L-26 Chart 5 for oil pressure gauge and hope someone can help me


Step 4: I have 6,7V on the right nut from the oil gauge
Step 5 with ground the left nut the oil needle moves to 60
Step 6: gronding the gauge pin terminal (purple wire) the needle goes to 60

and the fuel needle drops from full to 1/4! until this step the fuel gauge was full.
"Repair open circuit in sende wire!
But The wire from the oil sender to the gauge is ok.


Step 7: ground from the battery was ok. (i did the further grounding on a screw on the steering column inside)
step 12: i did connect a jumper wire from cluser ground to body. no change.


What is to do after the Step 6 in my fall?


the green ohmic resistance is the reason for the 6.7 V to Pin 11 ignition to the Cluster connector.


Did a new case screw to ground the cluster



Have found the fasten belt indicator lamp... not in use. but the bulb holder was with 2 wires (yellow and black) and without the contact for the board??
I wont to use this bulb holder for the emergency drive bulb because this is missing in the board.. the electrifica cames from the board. correct?
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Last edited by wincher : 03-25-2020 at 07:16 AM.
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  #113  
Old 03-22-2020, 07:08 AM
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as showed weeks ago.
this green part is a ohmic resistance
with the clip it is adjustet to 780ohms and the red wirde goes to Wire 4red 18 to "E" of the round cluster connection. "E" is ignition.

any idea for the functon?
should i replace them?
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  #114  
Old 03-22-2020, 08:04 AM
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please be so kind and take al look to the unused connectors.
Thank you!



Seat belt timer, but without the timer?



defogger and heater ground?
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  #115  
Old 03-27-2020, 10:54 AM
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Hi,

i need 2 bulb socket for the cluster board. one for the emergency drive an one for the park brake. they are bigger as the sockets for the illumination.


Are the 1/2" suitable? found them on reparts dot com in germany. one piece 9,22$
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  #116  
Old 03-27-2020, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
...
Im searching for the coolant recovery bottle and the windshild washer bottle. Both are missing .

have placed a advertisment in the "look for parts" too..

The exhaust is finished for now..

the complete exhaust is one piece welded, no clambing piece.

Maybe in the future a job to make it better and replace the front pipe or complete.
It took me a LOOOoooong time to find a good factory coolant tank. I used a cheap generic tank until I found the factory one I have now. The generic tank I had was from my local parts store and was about $8. It was ugly but it worked and it was on the shelf. There is nothing special about Coolant tanks; you can make them, too. I had a Ford Falcon about 15 years ago and I used a pickle jar as an overflow tank because the label was super cool and the green coolant was kinda pickle water color.

Great! (exhaust) If it works, don't fix it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
At page 1A-23 of the 1978 jeepshopmanuelcomplete is a chart for the distributors.
The 360 Automatic should have a 3231341 type.

I have a prestolite 322 0 (or 8?) 265. further number: 1 DJ4001F 18 6
ist this type ok?
Again, if it works, leave it alone. General consensus on here seems to be the Prestolite distributors suck...but if it is working, leave it alone. When/if it dies, then upgrade then. Many of us (me included) really like the Duraspark ignitions and distributors, others really like an HEI. Others yet like MSD stuff. If your distributor is working correctly, just leave it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Did the 1L-26 Chart 5 for oil pressure gauge and hope someone can help me

Step 4: I have 6,7V on the right nut from the oil gauge
Step 5 with ground the left nut the oil needle moves to 60
Step 6: gronding the gauge pin terminal (purple wire) the needle goes to 60
and the fuel needle drops from full to 1/4! until this step the fuel gauge was full. "Repair open circuit in sende wire!
But The wire from the oil sender to the gauge is ok.

Step 7: ground from the battery was ok. (i did the further grounding on a screw on the steering column inside)
step 12: i did connect a jumper wire from cluser ground to body. no change.

What is to do after the Step 6 in my fall?

the green ohmic resistance is the reason for the 6.7 V to Pin 11 ignition to the Cluster connector.

Did a new case screw to ground the cluster
I *THINK* I see your problem. 6.7V is too high. Voltage on that pin should be about 5 Volts. That 5 volts comes from the inside of the Temperature gauge. Does your Temp gauge work at all? I had to bypass my Temp gauge and install my own 5 volt external rectifier. I did it in this thread years ago. Looks like my pictures stopped working. If you PM me your email address I can email them to you.
Rang-a-stang dash wiring issues and 5V rectifier install
YESSS!!! MAKE LOTS OF NEW GROUNDS!!! You will need them! I have a specific 3 wire ground harness on my gauge clutster. I grounded 3 places on the cluster and then ran that ground directly to the body with a quick disconnect in the middle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Have found the fasten belt indicator lamp... not in use. but the bulb holder was with 2 wires (yellow and black) and without the contact for the board??
I wont to use this bulb holder for the emergency drive bulb because this is missing in the board.. the electrifica cames from the board. correct?
There are 2 different sized bulb holders. E-Drive signal does comes from the board. You say the board is missing? Or the holder that should be in the board is missing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
as showed weeks ago.
this green part is a ohmic resistance
with the clip it is adjustet to 780ohms and the red wirde goes to Wire 4red 18 to "E" of the round cluster connection. "E" is ignition.

any idea for the functon?
should i replace them?
I am going to guess someone was trying to fix the voltage rectifier and hacked that thing in there. I have never seen anything like that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
please be so kind and take al look to the unused connectors.
Thank you!

Seat belt timer, but without the timer?

defogger and heater ground?
I am not seeing these pictures on either of my laptops or my phone...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Hi,

i need 2 bulb socket for the cluster board. one for the emergency drive an one for the park brake. they are bigger as the sockets for the illumination.

Are the 1/2" suitable? found them on reparts dot com in germany. one piece 9,22$
I don't have any of the wired ones spare. I only have the little ones that get their signal from the board.
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  #117  
Old 03-27-2020, 02:11 PM
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Thanks for your reply
Will read your gauge cluster report later..


Some infos about my cluster and wiring.


not so important: have found the seat belt lamp, the connector for the timer and the buzzer. But no switch on the belt ... how is the imput for the seat belt warning?


lm missing the Lamp E emergency drive and the park break socket is a little broken.


important
on the board was a soldered jumper wire between A3, I, and A2
my gauges was
fuel: totaly full
temp: totaly cold
oil pressure: total zero.
and this after the good ground.


At my opinion the jumper to I is wrong.

I have cut them of.




now my gauges are
fuel: total empty
temp: totaly hot
oil; zero


(A3 and A2 have to be connected, but not I...)

The pin 4 ground was soldered
the pin 3 (oil) and 1 (emergency) looks loose.
tommorow morning i will solve the problems hopefully
It is time to roll out from the garage and go to setting the carb and ignition and do a test drive for the transmission, kickdown and so on.
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Last edited by wincher : 03-27-2020 at 03:17 PM.
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  #118  
Old 03-27-2020, 02:12 PM
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A2, A3 and I ... jumper wire??

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  #119  
Old 03-28-2020, 10:36 AM
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circuit path was broken, someone has scratched it on porpuse
I have disconnected the red jumper wire
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  #120  
Old 03-28-2020, 10:52 AM
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My "new" board.
Did the 5 V part as you can see on the heater board.
ground them on the heater ground (white wire)
12 V comes from the pin 15 (I)
the radio noise suppressor is ok,
the 5 V are for the A3 and A2.

The conductor path to A1 is ok.


Unfortunately I have not tested al with the multimeter...
Now I have
no oil pressure
no fuel
temp is full hot


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