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  #41  
Old 04-10-2011, 09:10 PM
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Coryd55 Coryd55 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FallonJeeper
You should quit playing with that proform HEI and get an MSD pro-billet PN 8523, like I recomended yesterday. It's made for the AMC V8. It's pretty much drop and play. You would be running by now.

i'd like to but I can't afford the $400ish swap. Already have close to $200 in original HEI, plugs, and HEI parts.

Anyway. Getting a spark on 1 now. I think my timing is off so going to get a friend to come set it tomorrow.
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  #42  
Old 04-10-2011, 09:14 PM
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Hope you get it running.
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  #43  
Old 04-10-2011, 10:07 PM
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You should be getting spark even if the timing is off it just wont coincide with TDC. I like to run the hot lead for the HEI off of a bosch 5 pin relay straight from the battery. Use the old coil hot lead to trigger the relay and use a minimum of 12 ga. wire from battery and to dizzy. I also like to run a ground lead to the intake or one of the heads straight from the battery. A simple way to test your coil is to pull it out of the dizzy, set it on top of the battery and wire up a ground and a hot lead. Put the part of the coil that sticks down to contact the rotor near (1/4" or so) the negative terminal on the battery and quickly swipe the positive lead across the positive terminal on the coil. You should get spark when the positive lead breaks contact. If not then your coil is toast.
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  #44  
Old 04-11-2011, 05:57 AM
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This thread may help with your ignition timing.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=133220
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  #45  
Old 04-11-2011, 07:10 PM
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What the heck...

Mechanic friend came over and pulled distrib to set timing. Put it back in and no turn over and no spark. Getting voltage at S and I terminals at right times (full 12V). Starter turns when we jump the relay. Relay is less than a week old as is the ign. switch.

What is going on?

I'm about done with this mess...I need some serious help.
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Last edited by Coryd55 : 04-11-2011 at 07:34 PM.
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  #46  
Old 04-11-2011, 07:50 PM
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Electrical gremlins can be the worst thing to track down, which is why mechanics charge a lot to fix them.

Do you have another HEI sitting around? It sounds like you might be at the point to try swapping a few internal parts. There are basically 3 parts in an HEI; the module, the pickup, and the coil. There are some things you can test with a multimeter, but it's almost as easy to swap a few parts and see what happens.

Dumb question but, did you plug in the wires from the distributor to the cap?
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  #47  
Old 04-11-2011, 08:08 PM
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1. Are you sure it's not the plug wires? Try grounding a piece of regular 12 gauge wire and have someone sping the engine while you touch the wire to a brass terminal on the top of the dizzy cap. I would suggest wrapping the wire in a shop towel where you will be holding it just to be safe. If you get spark then the plug wires are bad.

2. Remove the top of the dizzy cap so that the coil is visible and use a test light to confirm the contacts are getting the right voltage and also check while spinning engine. This will rule out the voltage questions.

3. Remove the module from the dizzy and have it tested.

4.Are you sure the coil is good?
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  #48  
Old 04-11-2011, 08:21 PM
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Coryd55 Coryd55 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrome
1. Are you sure it's not the plug wires? Try grounding a piece of regular 12 gauge wire and have someone sping the engine while you touch the wire to a brass terminal on the top of the dizzy cap. I would suggest wrapping the wire in a shop towel where you will be holding it just to be safe. If you get spark then the plug wires are bad.

Tested wires. Used ohmmeter and switched several of them (odds of half of almost new wires being bad are pretty low - they are not cheap ones either). I'm pretty confident that they are good.

2. Remove the top of the dizzy cap so that the coil is visible and use a test light to confirm the contacts are getting the right voltage and also check while spinning engine. This will rule out the voltage questions.

Engine won't turn over right now...soooooo....

3. Remove the module from the dizzy and have it tested.

Replaced it and got spark...don't think that is it.

4.Are you sure the coil is good?

Also replaced coil.

Do you have another HEI sitting around? It sounds like you might be at the point to try swapping a few internal parts. There are basically 3 parts in an HEI; the module, the pickup, and the coil. There are some things you can test with a multimeter, but it's almost as easy to swap a few parts and see what happens.

Already swapped parts - new cap, rotor, coil, pickup coil, module, wires (from cap to distributor).

Dumb question but, did you plug in the wires from the distributor to the cap?

Yes, and I replaced them.


Just pulled the relay, tapped it a bit in case it was stuck or something. Made sure I had good ground, reattached it and all corresponding wires - nothing.

I have 11.88 to S and 11.89 to I. Battery voltage is 12.11. Letting it charge overnight just in case. Not sure if 11.89 is enough to create a strong enough field to activate the relay.
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  #49  
Old 04-11-2011, 08:45 PM
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When I asked about the distributor wires to the cap, I didn't mean spark plug wires. There is a small plug with 3 wires ( I think it's 3) and it goes from the area under the distributor cap to the area that "sticks out" near the top of the cap. If you took the cap off it was definitely unplugged at some point.

Look at the picture with the shinny red distributor cap. Notice the black plug and the wires that go under the distributor.

Your battery needs to be fully charged. How did you jump the relay?

Here are some HEI tests:
http://forums.carcraft.com/70/661769...ing/index.html
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Last edited by Daddio : 04-11-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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  #50  
Old 04-11-2011, 09:11 PM
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Suddendeath Suddendeath is offline
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Like Daddio said, make sure the wires running from the top compartment of the HEI are connected inside...it's really easy for the tabs inside the connector to break. Happened to me, had to fix them.

Also...did you put the old gear on the base of your distributor? I know you're saying the rotor is turning, but I'd pull the cap and crank the engine for a good minute or so...push down a little on the rotor to give it a tiny bit of resistance...maybe the gear is toast at the base of the shaft?

Just some ideas...let us know...
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  #51  
Old 04-11-2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddio
When I asked about the distributor wires to the cap, I didn't mean spark plug wires. There is a small plug with 3 wires ( I think it's 3) and it goes from the area under the distributor cap to the area that "sticks out" near the top of the cap. If you took the cap off it was definitely unplugged at some point.

Look at the picture with the shinny red distributor cap. Notice the black plug and the wires that go under the distributor.

Your battery needs to be fully charged. How did you jump the relay?

Here are some HEI tests:
http://forums.carcraft.com/70/661769...ing/index.html

Those are the wires I was referring to. I replaced them with some from another HEI.

Jumping the relay is easy. Just get a thick gauge wire and touch the two outer terminals of the relay together. It bypasses the internal switch. You are more or less doing the work of the relay.

I've done test 1 and 3 on that site. Will try 2 and 4 tomorrow evening.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Suddendeath
Also...did you put the old gear on the base of your distributor? I know you're saying the rotor is turning, but I'd pull the cap and crank the engine for a good minute or so...push down a little on the rotor to give it a tiny bit of resistance...maybe the gear is toast at the base of the shaft?

Just some ideas...let us know...

I'm not sure if the old gear or new gear is on there. I did not do the initial install, the mechanic that is helping me out did. But when I pulled it yesterday, the gear looked fine.

Thanks for all the help so far.
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Last edited by Coryd55 : 04-11-2011 at 09:58 PM.
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  #52  
Old 04-11-2011, 11:00 PM
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Is the tach hooked up?

Try disconnecting the tach and giving it another shot.
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  #53  
Old 04-12-2011, 05:36 AM
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Not sure what you are saying. Remove the tach wires from the cap?
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  #54  
Old 04-12-2011, 02:22 PM
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Tach wire

The connection where your switched 12v connects, it has a second connection to run to a tachometer(Usually Green). You may not have it wired in. But if it is, I have heard of tachs going bad grounding out the HEI.........just a thought.
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  #55  
Old 04-12-2011, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eman_777
The connection where your switched 12v connects, it has a second connection to run to a tachometer(Usually Green). You may not have it wired in. But if it is, I have heard of tachs going bad grounding out the HEI.........just a thought.

I don't have a tach hooked up yet.
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  #56  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:35 PM
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HEI Update

Can you give us a quick update on what all you have replaced, tested good, and the current symptoms?

There really isn't much to the HEI thats why people upgrade to them. And it sounds like the symptoms have changed since your first post.
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  #57  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:40 PM
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Never Mind!

Quote:
Originally Posted by eman_777
Can you give us a quick update on what all you have replaced, tested good, and the current symptoms?

There really isn't much to the HEI thats why people upgrade to them. And it sounds like the symptoms have changed since your first post.

Good, I see it is running now.
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  #58  
Old 04-12-2011, 07:43 PM
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It's running

Bad ground. See my build thread for videos or my post in general forum.
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