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  #21  
Old 02-02-2011, 11:14 AM
RamJetFSJ RamJetFSJ is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 18, 2001
Location: Carpinteria, CA
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I was thinking of doing the same with a premade Truss with XJ suspension points (made to put a waggy 44 in a XJ). And then some custom long arm XJ arms from Rustys. I dont trust my welding/fab skills enough to do my own suspension mounts/links, but this looked easy enough to tack into place and take down to a shop to have welded. Its made for a NT Wag 44, but Im sure you could make it work.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/fronttruss-wagoneerd4480.aspx

Only concern I had was Truss to engine clearance at full bump.
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1980 Wagoneer - GM Perf. Ram Jet 350 crate motor, built 700R4, NP208, 4" lift, 33x10.5 tires.
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2011, 09:21 PM
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Okay, gratuitous engine pics. The upper intake is off, in case anybody is wondering.




This is how I modified the v-belt York pulley to work with a serpentine belt.
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  #23  
Old 02-05-2011, 09:04 AM
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81cherokee laredo 81cherokee laredo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 20, 2005
Location: Tuscola, TX
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Great Build so far. Is the York going to be running OBA?
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81 Cherokee Laredo- 360 727 NP219 SOA/SF 35 Coopers 4.56 Gears
83 Cherokee - Katy- long term project
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  #24  
Old 02-05-2011, 08:38 PM
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Yeah, I will have OBA. Looking at it now. I think I will replace the Ford compressor with another York. That way I won't have to adapt my existing AC lines to the Ford compressor.
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  #25  
Old 03-15-2011, 06:13 PM
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csuengr csuengr is offline
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So, now that I have the week off, it's back to work. doing the front suspension this week. I had to get the frame back off the ground and level, so I gave it legs.


Right side

Left side


Flexing, no trac bar yet. I have to put the engine in first for clearance issues.




Coil buckets tacked on.


Everything is just tacked in place for now. I have to make some small braces on the frame mounts for the lower arms.

I'm using four inch Early Bronco springs from Deaver since I couldn't find any Jeep springs with the right spring rate. Plus I already had the lower spring retainers.
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  #26  
Old 03-17-2011, 06:47 PM
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Wagn Man Wagn Man is offline
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Location: Tyler, TX
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Subscribed, excellant work thus far.
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  #27  
Old 03-17-2011, 08:01 PM
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Got the engine and tranny set into check clearances, again. Hopefully this is the next to last time I get to set the drive train in. I had to modify the transmission cross member to get the driveshaft to clear.


I will have to do something about the sway bar. I will probably move it an inch forward.


This thingy is another Exploder goody. Oil to water oil cooler.




Modified cross member
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  #28  
Old 03-17-2011, 08:23 PM
bigblock91
 
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that's a dam nice build you have started... what years do the explores have the oil to water cooler? wounder it that would fit on my BB ford.. thanks for the build.. makes me want to get my act together with my build! looking forward to more.....

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  #29  
Old 03-17-2011, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 25, 2005
Location: nevada
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Can you explain the motor mounts --- frame side? Modified Jeep/Ford hybrid?
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  #30  
Old 03-18-2011, 08:29 AM
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csuengr csuengr is offline
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The oil cooler is off a 5.0L Explorer. Some have them, some didn't as there are two oil filters listed for an 5.0 Explorer. The old tall one with English threads, and a short one with metric threads, the later being used with the oil cooler.

The engine mounts (on frame) are modified FSJ 6cyl pieces. I had to increase the angle to fit the Ford stuff. The Ford rubber mounts use a single bolt like the AMC 6cyls used. The mounts are in their original location on the frame as well. I did have to move the engine an inch to the passenger side to make clearance for the transfer case. That BW 1356 is huge.
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  #31  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:19 PM
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BRUTUS BRUTUS is offline
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Join Date: Dec 06, 2005
Location: Fort Crawlins CO
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Sweet build! If you don't mind I would love to drop by and check it out. I'll send you a PM.

Keep up the good work!
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  #32  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:37 PM
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Dmntxn77 Dmntxn77 is offline
Hey watch this...
 
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Nice work...
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  #33  
Old 03-27-2011, 05:15 PM
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csuengr csuengr is offline
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Big step today. The front suspension is now suspending.

It's sitting high, but there still is a good amount of weight missing. My upper shock mounts (on top of the spring buckets) are goofy, but they are there until I maybe come up with a better idea.

I am going to use a Bronco 33 gal tank for four reasons.

1. I already have it.


2. It already has the fuel pump I need.
3. I have all the fuel lines.


4. I can make the Ford sender work with the Chero gauge by putting a 120-130 ohm resistor is parallel with the sender.

I will have to rebend these lines. Truck/Bronco fuel lines with an Exploder fuel rail.

Just more pics of the Bronco tank. It's just sitting in there now. I will make mounts later.


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Last edited by csuengr : 03-27-2011 at 05:20 PM.
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  #34  
Old 08-17-2011, 09:22 PM
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csuengr csuengr is offline
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Okay, after a long time of being busy, with other stuff, I finally painted the frame and redid my test.

For a reminder, before:


And after:


Before, I had six inches of deflection. I now have .75" of deflection. Tomorrow, I get to put the engine in, FOR THE LAST TIME!!!!!!
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  #35  
Old 08-18-2011, 07:06 PM
elbastardo elbastardo is offline
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The guy in the thread is an engineer for mopar, his resources are (allitle) more than most

Last edited by elbastardo : 08-18-2011 at 07:09 PM.
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  #36  
Old 08-18-2011, 07:44 PM
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JeepinPete JeepinPete is offline
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I was hoping you would do the after shot The results are quite impressive. Most of the stiffness gained by boxing?
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  #37  
Old 08-19-2011, 08:03 AM
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j20brett j20brett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbastardo
The guy in the thread is an engineer for mopar, his resources are (allitle) more than most
.

And he is doing a great job with this build! I dont discriminate...i drool lol.
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  #38  
Old 08-19-2011, 11:58 PM
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Stuka Stuka is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j20brett
.

And he is doing a great job with this build! I dont discriminate...i drool lol.


He means the thread with the Cherokee that had all the JK parts and a Hemi in it.


As for this build, great job so far!

One Question I have is, why are you going with an 8.8 in back? The lug pattern wont match the front, its marginal under a 5000lbs vehicle, and its no stronger than the M23 that you have in there now.

If anything, I would look for a 3/4 ton axle, and convert the front to 8 lug. You could probably do it all for about the same cost of converting an 8.8 to being full float.
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1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.

1975 Cherokee *Sold*
1989 XJ Limited *Sold*
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  #39  
Old 08-20-2011, 03:01 PM
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csuengr csuengr is offline
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Guess I should have updated a little more. The Ford 8.8 idea is toast. Not that it isn't a strong axle (3850lb GAWR and 31 spline axle shafts, vs. 3200lb and 30 spline for a Dana 44) or the lug pattern (One can easily convert the front axle to match 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern). The 8.8 I wanted to use was from under a full size Bronco. The deal breaker was the 8.8's 65" width. My wide track AMC20 is 60.75" wide. I wanted to keep the narrower width for manuverability reasons. Cutting down the 8.8 would be a pain. I also considered a 6 lug SF 14 bolt. Hoverever, it uses 14mm lugs vs the 7/16" for a FSJ. Cutting it down would have been easier since using two short side axle shafts would come out to the dimensions I wanted. So I am sticking with my AMC20, if nothing else so I can thumb my nose at people on Pirate4x4 who thing the AMC20 is junk. And Ian at Extreme Money Pit.

And yeah, most of the strength come from boxing the frame. I also (see an ealier post) added to the tranny cross member to make it more of a structural piece. The worst part of the frame is from where the factory boxing ends to the cross member over the gas tank. There is not much that can be done here since this space if filled with useless junk like the gas tank, transmission and transfer case. I moved my tank, so I tried several different designs for another cross member in this area, but nothing worked well enough to actually make. I did my designing in the virtual world of FEA, in case someone is wondering.

I also added some cross bracing between the gass tank cross member and the one behind it. This also helps quit a bit. One will also notice that this bracing isn't symmetrical. The area to the left is where my battery(s) is/are going to reside. I'm copying GM here. The space under the hood is where the airbox is going to reside.
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  #40  
Old 08-20-2011, 03:08 PM
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Ahh ok. I would advise welding the tubes on the M23, and if you have the time, a truss along the top would not hurt. Its only weak point is really the thinner tubes that can spin. Although mine has been fine thus far. Granted I have a 258, but it has seen quite a bit of WOT use.
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1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.

1975 Cherokee *Sold*
1989 XJ Limited *Sold*
2005 KJ Limited 3.7, 42RLE, NP242
2008 JK 3.8, 6sp, NP241, 2.5", 33's, 4.56's
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