197? J-truck

[Solitude]

There's an early 1970s J truck for sale locally (not advertised anywhere), and it had some features I haven't seen before, such as a factory roof rack. The PO didn't remember what year this truck was, but his father owned it since new. It has the razor grill, but the round tail lights. Very nice body with original paint, only surface rust on the hood (not in the usual side bed seams), AT and possibly AC. The truck supposedly runs, but hasn't been started in a few years. It needs all fluids replaced, a new battery, new tires, and who knows what else just to find out whether it runs.

Does anyone know what the features were for a truck around this year? This one seems like it has more than the normal standard truck. My son's 75 J20 was very plain.

[Herk]

Round tail lights and razor grille would be 70-72. If it runs and drives the price might not be too far out of line. I generally have a hard time dropping more than $1000 on a non-running anything, unless I'm sure I can part it for more.

Features wise, it will either have the Buick 350 (70-71) or AMC 360 (71-72), TH400, Dana 20 transfer, and depending on GVW either a Dana 44 or 60-2 rear axle, and a closed knuckle Dana 44 front. If it's a 72 it will have a fuse box, earlier trucks had inline fuses. The frame has the earlier post mount springs.

[mud89]

I agree 70, 71 or 72
70-71 VIN begin by 3408 or 3407 for a J4000 or by 2406 for a J2000
72 VIN begin by J2..
VIN plate on the door jamb

[joe]

I'm with the others 70-72. I also think $2500 is very optimistic for a non-runner. On the rust thing: if it's been sitting unused in W. OR for a long time lift the carpet and look for rusted out floors. Not a lot of fluff options on that era other than the normal AT,PS, PB, AC stuff. Never heard of a roof rack on a truck but if it leaks check out the cab corners and cab mounts and look for rot.
That era could be a great project truck or it could be a money pit. My previous 72 J-4500 ($2800 in about 2002) was an excellent truck but it was an excellent runner and looker when I bought it. I'd at least bring a battery, some fuel, set of points/condensor and she if it'll at least run. Prolly wouldn't be a bad idea to at least drain the trans pan and fill with fresh ATF(Dexron). If the motor lights you don't want to start pumping water/condensation through the trans. AT's don't handle years of sitting idle as well as manual trannies.
PS: pre-73's wont have a fuse box either so don't stress looking for one. If he gets reasonable on price it's worth checking out. These are not collector value trucks...just old trucks. Nice it was his fathers and nostalgia has personal value but no transferable/salable value.
Good luck.

[Solitude]

Thanks everyone! I was guessing a 72. His asking price is likely nostalgia, and was his price about 4 months ago. It's still sitting there. I've been waiting to see if he'll come down closer to $1000, so I'm with you on that. I'm not really looking for a collector truck. In fact, I'd prefer a good running 84-88. Something I can drive often, take camping, etc. But also something to keep nice and not let get beat up.

I'll let you know what he says, and maybe post more pics.

[joe]

I didn't mean you thinking collector truck I meant the seller thinking "it's old, it's Jeep, must be worth a lot" I see your reasoning on newer era to drive and maintain but newer doesn't mean better condition and less work/expenses. I wouldn't be afraid of a well maintained 70-72 at all. They were good years. Before my 72 got burnt up in an out building fire, other than fuel costs I wouldn't have hesitated to run it x-country and back. The fear of rigs sitting for years means you've got to replace all the gaskets/seals is pure BS. Granted besides brake and other various rubber bits some seals will need attention but likely they were shot before it was laid up. You can and will likely have the same issues with an 80's era truck. I prefer the 70's less fluff simplicity trucks but they're all old. 70's or 80's all old and all were good trucks originally with their own quirks/needs. For a long term driver it's the condition you start with that's important time/money/labor wise...not the year. You're on the right track though looking for the best condition/maintained stock truck you can find for a DD. Get a good one, you'll love. Get a bad one Visa/Mastercard will love it.

[Solitude]

Thanks Joe. Great advice. I found out some more things about this one. One of which, the PO ordered a 400+ engine from the factory. I'm not sure what engine they had in around 72, so I'd love to hear what it was all about. The body is one of the best I've seen. No rust holes anywhere, which is rare. Bed and rear quarters are solid. Floor pans look solid. No grease around the engine, although, as you said, if it's been sitting a while it's only a matter of time before all the seals go.

I've grown to like this one. I've been pondering it for about 4 months now as it continues to sit there. I believe it would be a great candidate for a daily driver, or at least a fun vehicle to run around in. PO is considering my offer right now, so we'll see...

[joe]

Sounds decent but the only V8's avail in 72 were the 304 and 360 AMC's but as long as supply lasted some special order Buick 350's were still avail into 72. The 401 wasn't offered in FSJ's till 74.

[Dumpy]

If it's a 72 it will have a fuse box

My 72 has inline fuses. Big transition year, so it could go either way

[Solitude]

Sounds decent but the only V8's avail in 72 were the 304 and 360 AMC's but as long as supply lasted some special order Buick 350's were still avail into 72. The 401 wasn't offered in FSJ's till 74.

That is what I was looking for in this thread: to have people come out and tell me what the standards were, what was available, etc. The current owner swears his uncle put in a 400 block motor in it, but he could be mistaken, unless he put that engine in later in it's life which is possible.... The side chrome says "360" on it, which I'm more familiar with.

btw: It looks like my son is looking to sell his 75 J20 in Kansas City. I'm not sure what the particulars are. PM me if you want something further and I may post it to the For Sale part of this forum soon.

[joe]

Very possible he put a 401 in it at a later date, just wasn't ordered that way. You can look by the motor mounts the 304/360/401 family of AMC's have the C.I.D. of the motor cast into the block unless it was a factory replacement/repair block. If it does have a 401 in it and it has the original valve covers the build tag on the pass side vale cover gives the build date. 1st digit is the year: 7=74, 2nd and 3rd digit is the month, 5th and 6th is they day. So you can be pretty sure the motor wasn't installed before that date.
A 72 VIN will include what motor came within when it came down the assembly line. 8th digit will be an "N" for the 360.

[Solitude]

To buy or not to buy....

Sort of digging Cherokees these days.

[Putt2close]

How bad do you want it?

Solitude,

I bought a running J4000 for $1000. While I had a shop do the work so there is labor charges, I have put over $7K into it to bring it to a safe and Daily Driver condition. Motor tuneup, tires, bearings, brakes, Ebrake cables and parts, Dana 44 parts, Upholstery, floor rugs, gas tank and lines, Plus trailering it to the shop, registrations, etc.

I wanted the truck, I wanted something others do not have and was wiling to pay the fees.

The good news is with a good shop and this forum, I have been able to get all parts I needed. The only parts that are practically impossible to get are Wheel drums. If you need drums, they will have to weld/build up the ones you have and then have them turned down.

I am happy with what I got and have done. Wife on the other hand is not as happy with spending so much.

Greg