Mobil 1 synthetic oil

[FSJunkie]

I don't use NAPA/Wix oil filters any more. They must have changed suppliers or something because the anti-drain back valve doesn't work as well as it used to. I use a Baldwin B9 or B39 or the ACDelco PF24.

Glad to see I'm not the only one. I even work at a Napa. Every filter I've ever sold or bought that is a Wix (Napa Proselect, Silver, Gold, or Platinum) has been a good filter except the _1258 used for the pre 1987 AMC engines. All have had faulty drainback valves.

I looked up the specs on the 1061 and other alternatives that would work, but chose not to use them for some reason, I forget exactly why. I'll have to check the books when I go back in to work this evening.

I've been using ACDelco PF-24's instead. There is nothing fancy about them, but at least they work properly.

I've run synthetic in all my engines since they were broken in enough to allow it and they all look like they have half the mileage they really do inside. Castrol Syntec 5W50 has 1200 PPm of zinc. Valvoline Premium Blue diesel 5W40 has 1400. It depends on which one is on sale.

All the guys in parts stores will tell you switching from conventional to synthetic on a high mileage engine will cause leaks and other problems. It's just something we have to say to cover ourselves for liability. I've even switched motors back and forth between conventional and synthetic over and over without a single problem. The two products are miscable and fully compatable. One of the myths is the high detergent in synthetic will loosen sludge and plug the oil galleries. Not true. Diesel oil has even more detergent and one never hears horror stories about switching to it.

Do your research before adding magic additives to your engine oil. It's always better to use an oil with everything you need already included in the additive package rather than adding your own bottles to it, because it can cause an inbalance in the chemistry of the oil and cause substances to precipitate out as solids. I stick with Lucas TB Zinc Plus because it's very potent and I know it works. One bottle has more than 2X the ZDDP you really need for regular driving. i believe AMSOIL has their own additive as well, and if it's like everything else AMSOIl sells, it has to be pretty good.

[SC/397]

I am one of those guys who tired Mobil 1 in my AMX and switched back to dynosar oil because it leaked everywhere. This was in about 1996. The engine was well broke in at 20,000 hard miles. I changed the oil to Mobile1 and drove it on a trip out east and back, roughly 1800 miles. I went through 4 quarts of oil getting out there and back. It was so bad I was at the point of tearing down the engine and going through it again. Got home, checked out the car and it seemed like it was leaking every wehre. I went around and tightened oil pan bolts, oil pump cover bolts and what ever bolt I could get at. They weren't really loose. Figured what have I got to loose so, I changed the oil and put a jug of Lucas in it. It seemed to be ok after that. There is a thought that the rubber in the seals in the rebuild kits are still being made with the old compounds and that is one of the reasons that there was leaking problems. I don't know, this is just what happened to me. I know that there are others that haven't had the same experience.

[svining]

Same worry...

I spent a lot of time and worry over tight seals and gaskets. The result is a very quiet and happy motor. But yes, Synthetics will leak more if your seals are loose. They say its because the synthetic oil molecules are smaller then natural oils. On the other hand the smaller molecules get everywhere in your motor to lube it.

I am one of those guys who tired Mobil 1 in my AMX and switched back to dynosar oil because it leaked everywhere. This was in about 1996. The engine was well broke in at 20,000 hard miles. I changed the oil to Mobile1 and drove it on a trip out east and back, roughly 1800 miles. I went through 4 quarts of oil getting out there and back. It was so bad I was at the point of tearing down the engine and going through it again. Got home, checked out the car and it seemed like it was leaking everywehre. I went around and tightened oil pan bolts, oil pump cover bolts and what ever bolt I could get at. They weren't really loose. Figured what have I got to loose so, I changed the oil and put a jug of Lucas in it. It seemed to be ok after that. There is a thought that the rubber in the seals in the rebuild kits are still being made with the old compounds and that is one of the reasons that there was leaking problems. I don't know, this is just whathappened to me. I know that there are others that haven't had the same experience.

[babywag]

This might be incomplete, but a really quick Google search shows that the "magic number" for the minimum amount of ZDDP is 1200ppm. Some people are saying 1000-1250. Back in the day, the oils used to have 1400+ ppm.

I guess things haven't changed - personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable enough with only 1100ppm, and that's why I add it. IIRC it does deplete over time, and I don't think adding just a bit more is going to hurt anything.

It's the internet it MUST be true LOL.
Lots of testing has been done, above 1400ppm has been show to actually INCREASE long term engine wear.
I'd be very careful adding it frequently.
Think about it the number for a worn out engine was 100k back in the day.
Then oddly enough engines started getting 200k and 300k on a regular basis.
Zddp levels have been dropping since ~1988, if it was an issue like everyone claims/myths exaggerate I think there would be far fewer old vehicles hanging around.

I wouldn't add any, but that's just me.
No ill effects on any old iron I've owned since they started dropping the levels.
On a new cam/lifters you need more(enough), that's really the only time far as I'm concerned.

Synthetic is good stuff IMHO if I wasn't such a cheapskate, and my engines didn't leak @ all I'd run it.

[KJ Ryu]

My J10 only leaks from the RMS and it still makes sense to run synthetic in it, to me. I haven't put enough miles on it to warrant an oil change in the last 3 years. I check it (top off) every fill up so I know what the oil looks like, and how it feels. I change the filter once a year, 'cause I don't really trust any of 'em but, synth oils have been REALLY good for me.

I am also lucky enough to have a gas station nearby that sells nothing but PURE, non-corn/soy/seaweed, rotten dinosaur, GASOLINE! I think that has made more of a difference than anything, though. I've noticed my exhaust drips a lot less water than my buddies that just fill up where they happen to be. Even the "1 Legged Dog" that I'm DDing now has gotten better since I started buying the gas for it.

[jdaniel83]

My '01 GMC 5.3L Z71 has had Mobil 1 in it since it's first oil change and it has almost 200k miles and doesn't smoke, burn, or leak any oil between oil changes and has never been in the shop for anything. It's has been worked and driven pretty hard most of its life and it still runs as good as the day it was bought off the showroom floor, so I am a firm believer in Mobil 1. That being said I wouldn't run it in my '89 GW because I don't drive it nearly enough to justify spending the extra $$$ on Mobil 1. Plus my 360 has always seemed to like the diesel oils like Mobil Delvac and Delo 400 so I'll stick with them.

[PlasticBoob]

It's the internet it MUST be true LOL.
Lots of testing has been done, above 1400ppm has been show to actually INCREASE long term engine wear.
I'd be very careful adding it frequently.
Think about it the number for a worn out engine was 100k back in the day.
Then oddly enough engines started getting 200k and 300k on a regular basis.
Zddp levels have been dropping since ~1988, if it was an issue like everyone claims/myths exaggerate I think there would be far fewer old vehicles hanging around.

I wouldn't add any, but that's just me.
No ill effects on any old iron I've owned since they started dropping the levels.
On a new cam/lifters you need more(enough), that's really the only time far as I'm concerned.

Synthetic is good stuff IMHO if I wasn't such a cheapskate, and my engines didn't leak @ all I'd run it.

Haha, I'm not saying to add it every week. When I researched all of this years ago, I did hear that too much can be bad for the engine. IMHO there were better arguments/data for adding it than not. However, I just add a bit when I do my oil changes; I don't trust these new "green" oils formulated for new roller cams (just like I don't trust these new 15,000 mile change intervals either - good example: Ford's transmissions, tcases, and diffs being "filled for 'life'" - yeah RIGHT!), and the ZDDP is cheap enough that my wallet doesn't mind.

Like I said though, I've been out of the loop. It would be great if you could actually link to some definite numbers, tests, results, etc. done in the past year or so.

[GWDriver]

My old '88 Suburban had over 362,000 miles on what I believe to have been the original engine (I bought it with 98,000 on it). I used Pennzoil first and then Castrol dino oil. Switched to Castrol full synthetic and later to Amsoil. Never had any leaks. Finally retired the beast when the wife bought me my RAM 2500 TD 4x4. It's running exclusively Amsoil now.........

[vacaisle]

I went with 10w-40 high mileage mobil 1 since its summer almost. Changed it yesterday. No leaks. Pressure is a little higher than before though. But I guess high pressure is better than low. I wanted to use a good filter but the only one the store had was stp.