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Old 08-17-2000, 06:07 AM
ClarkstonGT ClarkstonGT is offline
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This will probably be easy for some of you, but not for a novice like myself. I recently noticed that when I applied my brakes, my GW wanted to turn to the left. Well, today, I pulled off the front wheels. There is significantly more brake dust on my left wheel. Also, my left front pads are worn much more than the right ones. What is going on? Do I need to bleed the system? Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2000, 06:19 AM
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ClarkGriswald ClarkGriswald is offline
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Sounds like the other side isnt doing its job, or barely helping.. you need to service the whole front brakes.. get new pads and make sure both calipers are operating. Mabye there is just air in the system and the front right one isnt working. but you need new pads anyway

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
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Old 08-17-2000, 06:55 AM
Veepster Veepster is offline
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I agree with CG....are you getting any brake pulsing? just thinking about a warped rotor......

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Peace.............BartG

78 Chero
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almost drivable:
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Old 08-17-2000, 07:30 AM
Narnian Narnian is offline
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Sometimes the slider pins (I don't remember if that's the proper name) on the calipers get rough or dirty or rusty, and the calipers don't slide open correctly when you release your brakes. This will cause one side to wear faster than the other. The non-worn side will then grab sooner, pulling the car in that direction.

I know what this looks like, but I'm not sure how to describe it.
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Old 08-17-2000, 09:29 AM
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Ralph Ralph is offline
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One of your calipers is apparently not working well. It could be the one that has less wear, but my guess would be that the side with excessive wear has a sticky caliper, a very common problem.

The good news is that you have generic GM light truck brakes up front, so you can replace the calipers for less than $20 apiece (with core trade-in), at just about any parts store. It's advisable to replace both at the same time.

Rotors, similarly, can be bought for $35 or less each, or you can have the old ones turned at a machine shop for $6-10 each. A complete set of pads costs less than $20, and anti-squeal clips for the inboard pads cost $3 or so. The only special tools you'd need (to remove the hub/rotor assembly) are a 4-prong bearing socket, costs about $15, and a pair of snap-ring pliers, about $5.

The bottom line is that, for less a lot less than you'd pay a mechanic to do a simple pad change, you can follow your Haynes manual and do a complete rebuild of your front brakes.
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Old 08-17-2000, 09:36 AM
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porkchop porkchop is offline
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Narnian, is on the right track. When you pick up new brake pads you should get some of the grease that goes with them. You are to take the grease and put it on the slide pins and the back of the pad before installation. this prevents the brake dust from collecting on the pins and preventing the caliper from moving equally on both sides. One side grabs before the other and then pulls to that side. The pins are what hold the caliper to the knuckle (the 2 bolts).

------------------
'67/'79 Wagoneer mix
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32X11.50's

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