AMC 360 V8 Motor swap out

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  • rayray311
    232 I6
    • Jun 21, 2017
    • 98

    AMC 360 V8 Motor swap out

    Anyone else have a AMC 360 V8 in their Jeep Grand Wagoneer?
    Mines in my 1988 Jeep.

    The AMC engine in my Jeep was rebuilt 15k miles ago. Shes a strong engine except for the fact that the Lifters need to be replaced already after only 15k miles. Got that clicking that I cant seem to remedy. When the engine was rebuilt the were replaced. Is this uncommon for them to go bad so quickly?
    I also drove here from San Diego with that Jeep loaded while pulling a 12 foot trailer heavily loaded through the mountains recently and that's when it started.

    Also...are there certain brands of Lifters that are best that I should use instead of the standard ones my mechanic will probably put in?

    Also...any tips, tricks, pointers etc anyone has regarding this engine in their FSJ.
  • wiley-moeracing
    350 Buick
    • Feb 15, 2010
    • 1430

    #2
    make sure your cam is not going flat, your push rods are not bent and you have good oil pressure to the rockers before you go and replacing lifters. If it is lifters a good aftermarket brand will work, comp cams, edelbrock, crane, etc..

    Comment

    • rang-a-stang
      Administrator
      • Oct 31, 2016
      • 5505

      #3
      I would also recommend putting a mechanical oil pressure gage on it and make sure you have good oil pressure. The gauge on your dash is not very accurate...
      Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
      (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
      (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
      79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
      (Cherokee Build Thread)
      11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
      09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
      00 Baby Cherokee

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      • mattmopar440
        AMC 4 OH! 1
        • May 17, 2007
        • 4092

        #4
        some lifters are better than others but if they are all making noise you probably have a oil pressure issue
        87' Grand Wagoneer
        401/727/229, Currently:RUNNING
        84 J10/20 hybrid 258/727/208 Daily Driver
        80' J10 4BT/AX-15/208
        74' J10 Go Grabber Green Sold
        Originally posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
        Inferior Chevy

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        • 78J10honcho
          350 Buick
          • Dec 18, 2005
          • 820

          #5
          What did you do for a break in for the rebuild? Do you know what lifters the mechanic put in it?
          Ben
          78 j10 honcho 360/th400/d20 (sunday driver)...97 F-350 crew-cab 4x4 5-spd PSD (tow rig)

          Comment

          • SC/397
            Administrator
            • Feb 01, 2010
            • 1024

            #6
            Lifters should't go bad in 15,000 miles.
            The study I did showed very little difference in lifter brands however, I prefer the Johnson Hi-Lift brand.
            For informational purposes, I have compiled a list of the different brand hydraulic lifters that I have used and compared them to the stock AMC lifters new and old. My primary interest was to see if

            You may have a cam with wiped lobes. Always use a oil additive with Zinc in it.
            The Squeaky Wheel gets replaced in my world

            Comment

            • FSJunkie
              The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
              • Jan 09, 2011
              • 4040

              #7
              The lifters are likely fine. They probably just don't have enough preload. Longer pushrods may be in order.
              '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

              I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

              Comment

              • 440sixpack
                327 Rambler
                • Jul 21, 2016
                • 612

                #8
                Generally when you rebuild an engine you end up with too much preload rather than too little. but depending on what was done and who did it insufficient preload would be a place to start.

                There are only two manufacturers of standard hydraulic flat tappet lifters anymore. one is junk and the other isn't that great. I use only Harland Sharp lifters because I know they're the better ones. there are other brand names selling the good ones and some sell the junk ones. since I don't know which is which I stick with Harland Sharp.

                Comment

                • rayray311
                  232 I6
                  • Jun 21, 2017
                  • 98

                  #9
                  Thanx everyone...im gonna go home tonight and pull out my receipt from the rebuild. It was done by the guy that owned it before me.

                  I have the obvious click that is worst when the engine is cold and isn't as bad once shes really warmed up. Then theres a secondary soft click that is going on simultaneously...this one even continues after I let my foot off the gas and you can hear it slowly winding down at that point.

                  She runs good still. But I know I need to address this asap

                  Comment

                  • joe
                    • Apr 28, 2000
                    • 22392

                    #10
                    Do you know it's a bad lifter(s) or just guessing? Could have been improper install but if that were the case I'd expect the ticking before 15,000 miles. New lifters on an old cam is generally not optimum but done frequently unless the cam is seriously worn. Hopefully it's not a worn cam and the PO just threw in new lifters on the cheap to sell the car. If the noise didn't happen till you pulled a heavy load over a mountain I'd suspect you bent a pushrod or cracked a rocker? Even if you're not a believer in oil changes a new lifter shouldn't get sticky or collapse in 15k but I wouldn't totally rule it out either. If you're really lucky and it's just a sticky lifter that isn't pumping up try a complete fresh oil change but "substitute"(not add) 1qt Marvel Mystery Oil for one qt of oil. Run it normally for 150-200 miles and change oil again. If it was just a gummed lifter that'll likely clean it up enough to work properly again. Have done that on junkers that had dirty tar for oil. Might want to give it a shot before buying parts you may not need but sounds like you'll need to dive into the motor and see what really going on.
                    Best of luck.
                    joe
                    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

                    Comment

                    • rayray311
                      232 I6
                      • Jun 21, 2017
                      • 98

                      #11
                      Thanx Joe!!!

                      Ive tried numerous oil changes, additives and flushes to the engine personally and by my mechanic. He wants to try to fix it without having to do a big repair job. He's a good honest guy.
                      Nothing seems to be working. Even changed my oil type a few times to see if that affected it. Just trying little things with my mechanic until I finally decide to just have him actually start working on her to fix the problem if all these attempts fail.

                      Comment

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