What springs with a 14 bolt??

[blt2krl]

You maybe fine since you all ready have a centered diff. The pinion on the 14 bolt should be a little more to the right than your 20 right now. For the 14 bolt to bolt in you need to move the perches ro 43.5 to match your rig's spring setup.

[Bob Barry]

Originally posted by Zorm:
Hey Bob, on your corp 14, di you need to remove the GM spring perches? I have a 14 bolt that I am putting under my 83 Chero. Right now I have the AMC 20 in the rear and it is centered diff, Do any one know if I would run into the tank interferance this also?

I made my spring-eye brackets wider on purpose, as the perches on the 14-bolt were 1" closer together than on a stock FSJ axle. To facilitate future axle and spring swaps, I used a U-channel wider than the springs, to accomodate a range of factory spring-perches, and I will take up the extra space with plate spacers.

[The Donzi]

Originally posted by Zorm:
Donzi, did you paint that or get it painted??

I painted it using rattle can gloss and some model paints.

[blt2krl]

Donzi check your PM's

[oldyellowwagoneer]

Well, since as far as i know I was the first to use the suburban springs I figured I should chime in here and explain why I like them. The first reason for using them was so I could get the rear axle pushed backward to enable me to run 38" swampers without having to cut into the front edge of the rear wheelwell,I just cut the back out and kept it reasonably stock looking. The other reason was so my dana 70 wouldnt hit the gas tank on full compression(yes I found out the hard way).With the quadratrac I had no problem with the driveshaft, but when I went to a centered np203 I couldn't clear the stock tank. I put in an aftermarket aux. tank I found in the wrecking yard for $7.50 to solve that problem. With late model tanks I think you might clear just fine as they're narrower but I'm not positive. The ride difference with these springs as compared to either stock or lift springs is like night and day. We mostly have mud and sand to play in so it wasn't necessary to remove the overloads in my case although once I get my doubler in I will be experimenting without them. They allowed me to eleminate blocks altogether in the rear and there's no axle wrap.I have SOA and 4" springs up front and when theres nothing in the back it sits up about1 1/2" higher than the front.Between them and the Dodge shackle mounts I used to build my shackle flip kit I have a total of $90.00 in the whole rear lift. Dennis

[scotty]

on the 14 bolt into a 80+ rig with the plasic tank,id ditch it,cause,well,its plastic [img]smile.gif[/img] it wont take many hits on a jagged rock

other than that,when i was still running a factory m20 and the factroy plastic tank,my rear shaft was very close to touching it,and actually did run on it when the tank started to sag.

if you choose to leave the plastic tank,you can prolly get away with it,but i dont believe youll be able to use a beefy rear d-shaft,youll be stuck with a stock diameter for clearance.

my current setup is a bed mounted tank,factory springs in a factory orientation with shackles pointed up,and a 4" block. i run dual "red ryder" shocks fromthe 'Zone on a fabbed bracket.

this allows it to sit level with a 6" chevy Tuff Country lift spring that gives me about 3.5-4" of lift in a SUA configuration.

i want to keep my CG as low as possible,and i didnt want to do the shackle flip to elimate the rear blocks cause i dont like the ide aof dragging the shackles and springs on ledges that i drop of of

ill eventually be replacing my rear springs/blocks with another tuff country chevy lift spring,and leaving the upwards shackles.

many ways to skin the cat

[oldyellowwagoneer]

Originally posted by scotty:
on the 14 bolt into a 80+ rig with the plasic tank,id ditch it,cause,well,its plastic [img]smile.gif[/img] it wont take many hits on a jagged rock
*** I thought that was what the metal skidplate was for? ***
other than that,when i was still running a factory m20 and the factroy plastic tank,my rear shaft was very close to touching it,and actually did run on it when the tank started to sag.
***The skidplate should be taking care of that also.***
if you choose to leave the plastic tank,you can prolly get away with it,but i dont believe youll be able to use a beefy rear d-shaft,youll be stuck with a stock diameter for clearance.
*** And a thick wall 2 1/2" tube somehow isnt strong enough? ***
my current setup is a bed mounted tank,factory springs in a factory orientation with shackles pointed up,and a 4" block. i run dual "red ryder" shocks fromthe 'Zone on a fabbed bracket.
*** I dont want to ever have to worry about blocks and the axle wrap involved nor the limiting effect of dual shocks in the rear,or the front for that matter. As for the gas tank I have a wagoneer that carries me and my family so a bed mounted tank is out of the question ***
this allows it to sit level with a 6" chevy Tuff Country lift spring that gives me about 3.5-4" of lift in a SUA configuration.
*** My situation is a little different since I have SOA with 4" springs.I also wanted flatter springs so I can get the articulation I was looking for without loosing the ride I wanted. ***
i want to keep my CG as low as possible,and i didnt want to do the shackle flip to elimate the rear blocks cause i dont like the ide aof dragging the shackles and springs on ledges that i drop of of
*** Once again I play in mud and sand mostly with ocassionally rock so it hasn't been a problem yet. ***
ill eventually be replacing my rear springs/blocks with another tuff country chevy lift spring,and leaving the upwards shackles.
***You mean an even more arched spring? That sure aint gonna help with the ride. ***
many ways to skin the cat

[ November 23, 2003, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: scoutgrl ]

[scotty]

*** I thought that was what the metal skidplate was for? ***

my metal "skidplate" if ypu want to call it that wansnt of much help. its pretty thin metal in the first place,so i dont think it was offering much in the way of protection,and mine like many 80+ rigs was rotting out,and letting the tank sag.

*** And a thick wall 2 1/2" tube somehow isnt strong enough? ***

many people like the looks of a big beefy 4 or 5" shaft with 1350 sized u joints. but i dont think youll fit one that big with the plastic tank. i dont really know the strength differences in a thickwall 2.5" shaft,and a 5" shaft,maybe the only reason to go with the bigger one is cosmetic. ya know,the BLING factor [img]tongue.gif[/img] 2.5" thickwall shaft may very well be just fine,if a person wants to leave the plastic tank in place.

*** I dont want to ever have to worry about blocks and the axle wrap involved nor the limiting effect of dual shocks in the rear,or the front for that matter. As for the gas tank I have a wagoneer that carries me and my family so a bed mounted tank is out of the question ***

i didnt install dual shocks to help axle wrap.i installed them so i could drive really fast over the uneven terrain in the open spots at haspin [img]smile.gif[/img] they are mounted completely vertically and do not limit my articulation at all. im sure my pinion moves,but it doesnt really seem to be causing a prollem,since i set the angle where i wanted it when i installed the rear end. at any rate,this is why i evetnually want to replace the springs with something else. i do plan to add a 2nd shock tothe front as well.again,to help with the "drive fast" aspect

my GW is a dedicated trail rig,and has no top,so a bed mounted tank makes sense for me. ive always liked the idea of haveing as little as possible on the underside to get caught on stuff or suction me into the mud.

*** My situation is a little different since I have SOA with 4" springs.I also wanted flatter springs so I can get the articulation I was looking for without loosing the ride I wanted. ***

ok. [img]smile.gif[/img]

*** Once again I play in mud and sand mostly with ocassionally rock so it hasn't been a problem yet. ***

my trails have lots of ledges,dropoffs,and off camber spots. i dont jump in the mudholes nearly as often as i used to,cause the cleanup after is not fun

***You mean an even more arched spring? That sure aint gonna help with the ride. ***

this is why i used the tuff countrys up front.they flex great for a lift spring,and the ride is good. soft enuff to compress it all the way to the bumpstop,yet just firm enuff to drive fast over "washboard" terrain without jarring your teeth out. i think an arched tuff country spring will give me good enuff flex,and the ride i want,and elimiate the blocks.eventually i do plan to also add some sort of traction bar,since the rear axle is always going to be SOA,no matter what kind of spring im using.

last and not least,i apologize if you for some reason think i was picking on you or criticizing your setup,as your post with a rebuttal to all my comments somewhat indicates.

this was not my intention at all,lots of us have different expectations for our rigs,and i definately was not criticizing the way youve set yours up.nor anyone who runs the flipped shackles,for that matter.

i was merely sharing my setup and the reasons i did it the way i did,for those that may have some interest.usually when i want feedback,i like as many different opinions as i can get.

like i said,many ways to skin the cat [img]smile.gif[/img]

[oldyellowwagoneer]

There's no apology needed as I was rebutting you not rebuking you. My intention was to point out the highlights of both ways we "skin cats" to give the most info to others so they may decide the pros and cons of both. Dennis

[scotty]

cool