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I reached my limit with garbage rebuilt P pumps. After 5 years I'm on my third one -- the first replacement leaked between the pump and the reservoir, and the current one has some horrible internal restriction that make the pump howl -- regardless of how many times I tried to purge it. Many years ago we built a desert racer out of a '78 Bronco. We used a KRC Type II pump and were really impressed with how much more compact (and powerful) it was. I decided I wanted that feeling again.
I'm not much of a bracket fabricator, but browsing the AMC car forums found a guy in Florida who builds them for the early AMC car crowd. He doesn't advertise them; you have to call and order it directly from him. Not terribly expensive; I think it was just over $100 shipped.
I'm not showing a lot of detail on the bracket, out of respect for the guy who actually put in the effort to design and build these to sell. If you're that good and want to build one yourself, it really isn't that hard to figure out -- three bolts for the bracket to the engine/heads, and provisions to mount/adjust the pump.
The bracket -- as sold -- won't clear the factory mechanical fuel pump. He sells the brackets as short as possible -- since a lot of the AMC car guys looking to convert PS systems are running electric fuel pumps and run off the nearest crank pulley groove -- so they need the brackets a bit further back towards the engine. He'd rather you need a spacer than have to start cutting the bracket down.
There are also specialized spacers the NASCAR crowd uses to fine tune the pulley alignment. These fit between the pump and the bracket, and push the pump face further out (towards the radiator).
So you can get your pulley pushed out one of two ways -- either by spacing the bracket off the engine, or the pump off the bracket. I was lucky enough to require BOTH.
My pump (PSC OEM replacement for later Jeep 4.0) has an attached reservoir. For whatever reason, the rear of the pump reservoir isn't flush with the back of the pump -- so it will hit the bracket at full inward travel.
Shimming it with washers, I figured out that I needed about 1/3" to clear the reservoir when installing the pump. I went online and found a 0.300" NASCAR spacer for a few bucks on eBay. While not the full 1/3", it is enough that when I'm rotating the pump out to tighten the belt, I've got good clearance (it will just touch at full inward travel). I still needed spacers for the bracket, to clear the fuel pump. About 0.75" was all I needed to clear the pump AND perfectly align the pulleys. Without the NASCAR spacer my bracket spacers would have needed to be about 1" -- start a little longer and you can just touch them to the grinder to make them the perfect length. I made the spacers out of a 6" section of 3/4" black pipe nipple.
What can I say now? It all just bolts back together. Used 4"x3/8" grade 8 bolts for mounting the bracket to the engine/heads, and 4"x5/16" bolts for mounting the pump to the bracket. It all just bolted back together. Belt was a Dayco 15480 (48" v-belt). The high pressure output on this PSC was 16mm -- just like OEM (since 1980, anyways) -- so I only had to bring the hose over 90 degrees and it fit perfectly. The hard line section easily clears the pulley and belt. Return barb is 3/8" so the OEM return line fits up as well.
This is COMPACT, and really clears up some room under the hood. It is also a better, stronger pump design, with more options for remote tanks/reservoirs, hydroboost applications, etc.
Final issue -- the later Saginaw P pump has a 3/4" press-on shaft pulley (earlier ones I think were 5/8" with a keyed slot), and the Type II/TC pumps are smaller -- around 17mm -- so you can't reuse your OEM pulley. I used the PSC PP2404 -- which is the V-belt pulley listed for that specific pump. I imagine it could be used on any TC pump -- as the pulley shaft diameters are all listed around 0.68-0.69 inches. March Racing also makes a v-belt pulley for the TC pumps. KRC has a proprietary bolt-on pulley for their pumps, so you can also go that route if you want all KRC stuff.
You can also buy the entire package -- bracket, pump, pulley, and new hoses -- from the guy that makes the brackets. I posted the info in the Vendor section.
I'm not much of a bracket fabricator, but browsing the AMC car forums found a guy in Florida who builds them for the early AMC car crowd. He doesn't advertise them; you have to call and order it directly from him. Not terribly expensive; I think it was just over $100 shipped.
I'm not showing a lot of detail on the bracket, out of respect for the guy who actually put in the effort to design and build these to sell. If you're that good and want to build one yourself, it really isn't that hard to figure out -- three bolts for the bracket to the engine/heads, and provisions to mount/adjust the pump.
The bracket -- as sold -- won't clear the factory mechanical fuel pump. He sells the brackets as short as possible -- since a lot of the AMC car guys looking to convert PS systems are running electric fuel pumps and run off the nearest crank pulley groove -- so they need the brackets a bit further back towards the engine. He'd rather you need a spacer than have to start cutting the bracket down.
There are also specialized spacers the NASCAR crowd uses to fine tune the pulley alignment. These fit between the pump and the bracket, and push the pump face further out (towards the radiator).
So you can get your pulley pushed out one of two ways -- either by spacing the bracket off the engine, or the pump off the bracket. I was lucky enough to require BOTH.
My pump (PSC OEM replacement for later Jeep 4.0) has an attached reservoir. For whatever reason, the rear of the pump reservoir isn't flush with the back of the pump -- so it will hit the bracket at full inward travel.
Shimming it with washers, I figured out that I needed about 1/3" to clear the reservoir when installing the pump. I went online and found a 0.300" NASCAR spacer for a few bucks on eBay. While not the full 1/3", it is enough that when I'm rotating the pump out to tighten the belt, I've got good clearance (it will just touch at full inward travel). I still needed spacers for the bracket, to clear the fuel pump. About 0.75" was all I needed to clear the pump AND perfectly align the pulleys. Without the NASCAR spacer my bracket spacers would have needed to be about 1" -- start a little longer and you can just touch them to the grinder to make them the perfect length. I made the spacers out of a 6" section of 3/4" black pipe nipple.
What can I say now? It all just bolts back together. Used 4"x3/8" grade 8 bolts for mounting the bracket to the engine/heads, and 4"x5/16" bolts for mounting the pump to the bracket. It all just bolted back together. Belt was a Dayco 15480 (48" v-belt). The high pressure output on this PSC was 16mm -- just like OEM (since 1980, anyways) -- so I only had to bring the hose over 90 degrees and it fit perfectly. The hard line section easily clears the pulley and belt. Return barb is 3/8" so the OEM return line fits up as well.
This is COMPACT, and really clears up some room under the hood. It is also a better, stronger pump design, with more options for remote tanks/reservoirs, hydroboost applications, etc.
Final issue -- the later Saginaw P pump has a 3/4" press-on shaft pulley (earlier ones I think were 5/8" with a keyed slot), and the Type II/TC pumps are smaller -- around 17mm -- so you can't reuse your OEM pulley. I used the PSC PP2404 -- which is the V-belt pulley listed for that specific pump. I imagine it could be used on any TC pump -- as the pulley shaft diameters are all listed around 0.68-0.69 inches. March Racing also makes a v-belt pulley for the TC pumps. KRC has a proprietary bolt-on pulley for their pumps, so you can also go that route if you want all KRC stuff.
You can also buy the entire package -- bracket, pump, pulley, and new hoses -- from the guy that makes the brackets. I posted the info in the Vendor section.
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