Sacreligious WT Chief converted to the Dark and smokey side Cummins 4bta

[dusty]

making sure the chopped dodge manifold idea is going to work. set the turbo at a 45* angle similar to the dodge manifold but using the stock 90* down manifold i have and then taping it in place to check down pipe clearances etc






still need to rotate the intake side some more but i need BIG snap ring pliers so until i get around to that part it is close enough to work



Fire wall clearance



Problems will arrise when i go to address the fan. the late model dodge fan hub i used puts the fan over close to the ps box...... doubt i'll have a full shroud if i use the dodge fan. if anything just a cover over the top

[crazydog]

Problems will arrise when i go to address the fan. the late model dodge fan hub i used puts the fan over close to the ps box...... doubt i'll have a full shroud if i use the dodge fan. if anything just a cover over the top

Why not go with an electric?

[dusty]

Why not go with an electric?

simplicity.

[dusty]

looks like a 6.2 diesel fan can be unbolted from the chevy hub clutch and bolted to a dodge hub then threadded onto the motor. we'll see.


Currently in standby mode. i might fab up some rought motor mounts tonight.

otherwise time is in short supply these days. hoping to get some more done late at night when i get two minutes to myself

[dusty]

Got home late tonight, first chance ive had to try and do anything. mind you i am no professional welderf and 1/4" tubing and 1/4 plate should really use a 220 welder not a 110 but spot welds are not something that can't be ground down and re-welded later to clean up by someone who knows what their doing aka professional welder buddy who works for C- on weekends

So now for some measurements. from the side of the block (mid mount plates) it is 9-1/4" on each side to the frame rails. now that does not include the 1/4 plate i will be bolting to the frame. on each side but i am letting you know to have the motor centered you will have rough ly 9" between the engine and the frame if you use 1/4" plate flat on the frame and flat on the motor

I opted for dead center which is fine but be prepared to deal with the oil pan. i was stuck since my d300 and nv4500 were already mounted. if i had it to do over again i might have pulled things backa couple more inches but for the tranny cross member and shifter clearance in the cab not moving it back any further worked well for me. plan on dropping your front sway bar down a few inches. plan on a min. 4" lift plan on mild oil pan clearance issues if you can't get the motor high enough. I found where i set the motor with the front shackles pulling the front end forward things are close but should clear on compression since the webbing on the dana 44 will move forward and give me about 1/2" clearance under full compression. nothing insurmountable but all things to keep in mind.

some pictures of dodge 1989-93 diesel motor mounts single posters with a few measurements for others to use as a half *** reference


mind you i am going to grind and clean things up but this works for mock up

i thing that was 2-1/2 x 4 1/4 wall tubing that i butchered



I left gaps at in the mounts so that mud and crap can be pressure washed out. if i had fully welded the angled face plate where the motor mount mounts to the tubing then i would have created a holding tank for everything under the sun.

[JeepinPete]

Looking good!

[dusty]

waiting on the modified dodge exhasut manifold to get to me. currently the 1/4" plates are bolted to the frame, and to the motor. the motor mout is spot welded to the engine plate but i will not weld tothe frame plates until i have that manifold and can set the height of the engine relative to the final location of the turbo


rounding up more parts in the mean while

have a dodge AC compressor and lines ont he way
Have a dodge alternator on the way

now is when things get expensive.... all the nickle and idme stuff. need to figure out the throttle linkage. ect ect ect

[dusty]

needed to move the rig so motor mounts are spot welded in . hopefully things clear if not i'll probably just go the troute of a 1" body lift or some 1" shackles if i have to to get everything to have a little more comfort zone



the extra 2" hanging down off the plates at the frame will get cut off later when the mounts come out to get the final welding done to them. note i used the old stock jeep motor mount bolts and holes. i will probably add one more bolt hole and bolt throught he middle of the mounts but i doubt the deflection in 1/4" plate will be enough to worry about when spanning only 4" back from the mount.

passenger side looking down. i still need to slot the passengar side mounts. driver side are slotted pretty well up and down almost 1-3/4 passenger side is just streight holes right now


passenger side looking down the frame rail. plenty of clearance for installationa nd removal of motor any time


driver side sorry its a little tight for a picture but you can see barely that there is about 1/2" clearance around the steering shaft. should be plenty.


there is plenty of room to install and remove the starter as well plenty of room for the PS hoses to install right above the motor mounts


underside of the driverside mount. Booger welds i know


passenger side plate not the stock bolt holes from the jeep v8 and then not the 2-1/2x4" tubing and that should giv e you a rought idea where the center of these motors lies. i might do a gusset across the face between the bolts and to the edge of the tubing to tie the tube to the bolted face of the 1/4" plate.

[JeepinPete]

I never stopped to think how far the motor mounts have to extend to mount up an inline engine. I wonder if the frame horns extend further than the V8 horns?

[dusty]

i am thinking i should be ok without any additional gusseting. but i'll know more once i get them back out and finish welding them

it is quite a span. i almost used the v8 mounts but the fact that on the passenger side i needed the mount 4" back from where the stock v8 would have been changed that plan. in the end when i found i could probably make two sets of mounts identicle for each side and get their profile to be lower thus giving me more adjustability and room to work it was hard to jsutify complicating things.

seriously the mounts have about 3-4 hours in them and that included and beer breaks i could have done it quicker but its kind of the the late night 1 hour rush then clean up and try it again the next night.

I am really looking forward to this next week having some time to hammer out details and get it removed and reinstalled with the finished mounts. i once thats done its down to details. install clutch, clutch fork reinstall motor, start fabbing the exhaust downpipe. mounting the AC compressor and Alternator, installing the Serpentine belt, mounting the manifold and turbo with turbo oil lines and hooking up the PS lines. once those details are behind me i'll focus in on exhaust, radiator, water hoses and the hydraulic clutch assembly.

in the final stretch i'll deal with the intake to intercooler tubing and hoses, throttle linkage, battery tray, fab/mount the vacum pump & bracket and last will be hooking up the AC lines and the new AC condensor & drier.

Later on i'll be dealing with gauges, tach and making a new bracket for the pyrometer / boost gauge

thats the schedule right now. hope to have the SOB back on the road in december but i neglect to remind myself that i still need to paint, seal install the new tailgate which will have a new manual crank, new everything gears, mechanism etc including glass & tracks, as well i need to get some spray rubberized sealer to spray into my cowl to seal the body seam up in the top corner of my dash below the winsheildthe sheet metal has slightly peeled apart inside the cowl where you cant get toand is allowing water to seep in above the radio attena wire and at the radio attena and above up in that corner. some black fleable roof sealer should do the trick forcing the water away from that area and seal it up...... i hope.

[dusty]

the goodies should be here tonight. exhaust manifold, lift pump and oil lines for the turbo. these are the big ones i have been waiting for. i get these installed then i can check clearances and rock and roll with the welder to finalize the mounts ect.

Thought about it last night if i really have problems with clearance at the heater box i can probably go get an early all metal heater box and change some dimensions to clear the turbo.

[dusty]

ok got home tonight LATE got a little more done


i hate this 1 hour at a time crap hopefully next week goes better.

got LOTs of goodies when i came home. had an alternator, voltage regulator, exhaust manifold, pison lift pump conversion kit.


did some bugger welding to the waste gate to keep it closed. mounted the turbo. mounted the alternator, installed the piston pump, fabbed the down pipe for off the back of the turbo and checked for clearance on a new battery location. all went well measurements were tight but planning paid off BIG time. went bigger on this conversion than i ever thought i would. previous conversions we just installed the motor with a cross over pipe and ran it but this one with AC, after cooler, HY turbo and flipped manifold as well as dodge bellhousing and hydraulic clutch is a far cry from a 105hp 4bt with cross over pipe and a t-19 behind it.



pretty stoked. motor is coming out tomorrow night to get final touches. holes plugged oil lines finished up. details tended to leaving only radiator lines and PS lines to be hooked up when i put her back in.

I really want to put the south bend 6 spd flywheel (read heavier) with the sealled pilot bearing but money is tight, i'll have to wait for another day and $300 to upgrade that part of this conversion. i am dreading the hydraulic clutch setup of all things i fear it will bite me in the *** too short a throw or some pain in my butt will come back to haunt me.

pictures included and hey im no professional with a camera. i'm just joe six pack trying to pretend to be a journalist


Any additional measurements you want you had better ask now. because later it might be a serious PITA to get them.

The flipped dodge manifold is the way to go in a FSJ. the clearance is tight but it does clear the heater box.

Hey BTW where is MCinfantry i'm due for some harassment from you..... i'm only shooting for 180 hp despite our debate about 200+ - 300 hp applications of the 4bt. i am conceeding you are right i am not willing to spend the money nor risk detonating my moro in the name of most possible tire smoke where ever my hp falls is where it will stay im just not interested in exceeding 205 hp which would probably yeild (475 ft/lbs) nor do i want to get over 520 ft/lbs because that would be knocking ont he door of 230 hp which i think would be a hard number to reach based on previous experience with these motors and the VE pump.......... if i even make it that far.

like i said 180/ 420 and i'll be happy









Yes the 3" 90* down pipe clears i had to cut it so the 90* turn stars right at the flange and i plan to wrap the pipe other than that is see no issues with clearance the wires are all going to be clipped backin to their holders when i finish




these are pretty shaky but i always hated trying to do a conversion without being able to visualize more angles of what others had done.







i only hope at the end of my pictoral that this thread helps others do the same. i cant provide all the answers as i like to improvise as i go but as much info as i can provide i will openly offer to you.

[JeepinPete]

Hows the clearance between the oil pan and the front axle?

[dusty]

about 2-1/2" straight up to the pan from the pinion webbing, i'll measure tonight. and the drain plug sits straight up from the pinion webing of the cast dana 44 pumpkin so it just overhangs that webbing by maybe 1/2"-1" when sitting idle . fortunately our axles swing forward when the suspension compresses. so when that happens the front of the oil pan and hte drain plug clear the pinion webbing by about 1" at full compression. close for sure. but i think i am safe. i could still lift the motor another 1/2-3/4" but man i dont feel like redoing the mounts so im thinking things are going to stay this way. if i really need a little extra some 1" shackles or maybe some 6" lift springs for the front and leave the 4" springs in the rear.


right now with the BJ's springs and the 4" lift in front from the top of the 33x12.50 on 8" x15" rim tire to the bottom of the WT flare is 5.25" in the rear it is 7.5" Could do a 6" spring in front probably end up at 7" between tire and flare and do a add a leaf int he rear and be at 8" in the rear but the jury is out right now on suspension mods. gotta ge the mechanical details of the installation done first AC, coolant, exhaust, intake, PS clutch assembly

[Eugene 1]

This is awesome are you going to post video ? when its running ?