difference between wide track and narrow track.

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  • lodmccloud
    232 I6
    • Dec 05, 2009
    • 79

    difference between wide track and narrow track.

    So what is the difference between narrow track and wide track. I have a 74 J10 it should be wide track. I also have axles out of a 77 K10 blazer and they are three inches wider. Which is better, should I go EX wide track?
  • rustywagoneers_com
    304 AMC
    • Feb 02, 2006
    • 2334

    #2
    The Chevy axles give you a zero-effort SOA, and slightly easier to find spare axles. Research SOA and high-steer.
    There is no way to rule innocent men.
    The only power government has is the power to crack down on criminals.
    Well, when there aren't enough criminals, one makes them.
    One declares so many things to be a crime that it becomes impossible for men to live without breaking laws.

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    • lodmccloud
      232 I6
      • Dec 05, 2009
      • 79

      #3
      Yeah I have heard that but it is wider but will still bolt in, if I have the rear as well I should use both?

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      • rustywagoneers_com
        304 AMC
        • Feb 02, 2006
        • 2334

        #4
        If the rear is a 12 bolt, sure.

        If you are doing SOA front, then move the J-truck springs down under the frame, and put them at the Chevy width, and you will have 6-ish inches of lift total when you are done for a modest investment.

        However, your front DS will be very short if you have a QT transfer case. SO - you may have to spend some good money on a suitable driveshaft - OR, compromise by dropping the drivetrain down into the frame somewhat.
        There is no way to rule innocent men.
        The only power government has is the power to crack down on criminals.
        Well, when there aren't enough criminals, one makes them.
        One declares so many things to be a crime that it becomes impossible for men to live without breaking laws.

        Comment

        • TheJeeper
          258 I6
          • Mar 31, 2009
          • 346

          #5
          What are you planning for the truck? I suspect since it's a spring over swap that big tires are in your future. If you wheel hard, your 12 bolt may not like the tall rubber. I'd suggest upgrading to a Dana 44 if you're going to run 33s or taller.
          '65 J200: 230ci., T90A-1, built with T90J input shaft, Spicer 18, 2.47:1, D44s: 4.27s. 31x11.50x15 vintage Star M/Ts

          Regarding a manual valve-bodied auto... "To me that's like trying to play a fiddle with a sawzall."

          Nothing in written by me in ANY post can be used without my written consent.

          ~Eli's Jeep Supply~

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          • Chris P.
            350 Buick
            • Oct 12, 2003
            • 1307

            #6
            Originally posted by TheJeeper
            I'd suggest upgrading to a Dana 44 if you're going to run 33s or taller.
            He already has D44's.
            79 J10 Honcho 360/T-18/D20
            Summit 8600 cam, GM TBI
            78 Wagoneer 360/TH400/QT

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            • #7
              No reason to "upgrade" to a D44. lol It won't be enough stronger, if any, than the 12b. If you want to upgrade at all go D60 or 14b.


              aa
              1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

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              • TheJeeper
                258 I6
                • Mar 31, 2009
                • 346

                #8
                I've heard of stock 12Bs puking on 34s. That's all I'm going by.
                '65 J200: 230ci., T90A-1, built with T90J input shaft, Spicer 18, 2.47:1, D44s: 4.27s. 31x11.50x15 vintage Star M/Ts

                Regarding a manual valve-bodied auto... "To me that's like trying to play a fiddle with a sawzall."

                Nothing in written by me in ANY post can be used without my written consent.

                ~Eli's Jeep Supply~

                Comment

                • lodmccloud
                  232 I6
                  • Dec 05, 2009
                  • 79

                  #9
                  I am asking if going from FSJ dana 44 to chevy dana 44's are any better for the sheer point they are wider by about three inches.

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                  • DAHoyle
                    350 Buick
                    • Nov 25, 2005
                    • 999

                    #10
                    Originally posted by lodmccloud
                    I am asking if going from FSJ dana 44 to chevy dana 44's are any better for the sheer point they are wider by about three inches.

                    Ummmm, I don't know. Are they?

                    It depends on what YOU want, and what YOU do with the vehicle.

                    That's like asking what size tires to run, or how much lift to run. It all depends on the individuals wishes.
                    67 M715
                    Cummins 4BT/Allison 54/Ford203/Ford205,
                    Front 89 HP60/Rear 81 GM D70HD
                    Discs all around/ 12 bolt H1 Rims
                    Build still very much in progress


                    78 Levi edition Honcho 360/T18/D20


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                    • TPICherokee
                      Administrator
                      • Jul 02, 2001
                      • 3361

                      #11
                      The Front Blazer 44 should be exactly the same width as your Front Dana 44. There is no strength advantage that I can think of.


                      Originally posted by TheJeeper
                      I've heard of stock 12Bs puking on 34s. That's all I'm going by.

                      As for the rear 12 bolt, set up properly, they can handle a lot of power. Not really any upgrade over a 44. To set one up close to the strength of a Dana 44, you would first need to put c-clip eliminators on it.

                      I have witnessed a Dana 44 puke with 31's. It got me home but it wasn't pretty. That doesn't mean they are bad, just means that in the right situation, anything can (and will) break.
                      www.bjsoffroad.com - BJ's Off-Road - Your Full-Size Jeeps Parts Specialist

                      1987 Grand Wagoneer - 5.3 Vortec, 4L60E, NP242
                      1979 Cherokee Chief - 6-inch BJ's Off-Road Lift Kit, TPI Chev 350, 700R4 with NP208 and 4.56 gears, 35x12.50R17, Rhino Front End, J-Truck Rear Axle, GoMango Orange.
                      1979 Cherokee Chief​ - 5.3 Vortec, 4L60E, Quadratrac, Alpaca Brown Paint, new stock interior
                      1976 J10 Longbox - 258, T18, Dana 20 - Sniper Fuel Injection
                      1967 M715 - 454 Chevy, TH400, 1100R16 Michelin XZL Tires, Stock otherwise (sold)

                      Comment

                      • TheJeeper
                        258 I6
                        • Mar 31, 2009
                        • 346

                        #12
                        Originally posted by TPICherokee
                        The Front Blazer 44 should be exactly the same width as your Front Dana 44. There is no strength advantage that I can think of.





                        As for the rear 12 bolt, set up properly, they can handle a lot of power. Not really any upgrade over a 44. To set one up close to the strength of a Dana 44, you would first need to put c-clip eliminators on it.

                        I have witnessed a Dana 44 puke with 31's. It got me home but it wasn't pretty. That doesn't mean they are bad, just means that in the right situation, anything can (and will) break.
                        I was comparing stock to stock capability.
                        '65 J200: 230ci., T90A-1, built with T90J input shaft, Spicer 18, 2.47:1, D44s: 4.27s. 31x11.50x15 vintage Star M/Ts

                        Regarding a manual valve-bodied auto... "To me that's like trying to play a fiddle with a sawzall."

                        Nothing in written by me in ANY post can be used without my written consent.

                        ~Eli's Jeep Supply~

                        Comment

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