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  #1  
Old 11-19-2010, 08:00 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Join Date: Feb 02, 2006
Location: Redding, CA
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Swapping '72 body onto '81 diesel-powered chassis

Well, I've gone and done it...started the body swap.

Last year I bought a non-running '72 Wagoneer (thread link). I figure that since I've had so much trouble (thread link) trying to register the '81 diesel Wagoneer (thread link) in California (ultimately failing), I'd rather switch than fight. Check out Dr Teeth's work (thread link) to see how the body swap should be done. I'll do my best, but I don't hold out a lot of hope that I can match that kind of quality.

I've been taking body parts off the '72 (sold a few bits and pieces here, more to come), and last weekend did some floorboard work. Today I moved the hulk into the garage (my poor ol' VW diesel has to spend the next few months in the cold, waaaa).

Pics:
Old carpet, saved to use as a template. Check out the outline of a wrench that was left there for years an' years.


Opened the tailgate, removed the seats, removed all the carpet.


Here's the tailgate hinge area. Some work to be done here...


Fuel tank fillers. Stock one is at the rear, auxiliary next to it. Dig the PVC pipe.


Driver's side front floorboard shows the expected, but hoped-against rust damage:


Removed the accelerator pedal by ripping it out along with the rusty floorboard it was attached to:


Removed the chunk of floorboard. I banged on it with a screwdriver's tip until I found the division between solid and flaky steel, then cut around it.


Hole in the floorboard:


Hole and floorboard, cleaned and painted with rust shield. (I used this product instead of POR-15 at the paint guy's suggestion. Replacing the panel lets me just paint and line it.)


Cut and bent a piece of aluminum diamond-plate to fit. I used a torch to heat the aluminum up, then cooled it slowly, making it ductile. I'm going to epoxy the piece in. On my Gladiator I used a piece of steel and rosette-welded it in. Member Metal Twister suggested epoxy (post link), which seemed like a great idea. There's a bit of a hole in the corner. I'm going to adjust the replacement plate a bit, then fill what's left of the hole with some spray-in expandable foam. Once the bedliner is on, we'll never see or notice it again.


This weekend is supposed to be rainy, so I'll spend a lot of the time in the garage prepping the floorboard for rust shield and/or primer. Then next week sometime I'll coat it with black bedliner.

After that I'm going to rewire it with a 16-circuit aftermarket harness, along with Dakota Digital gauges. A bit of dash paint, then it's ready to accept the newer chassis (which I haven't even begun working on).

Gotta love a new project!
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2010, 10:30 PM
letank's Avatar
letank letank is offline
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Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budojeepr
Well, I've gone and done it...started the body swap.

then fill what's left of the hole with some spray-in expandable foam.

Great project, the expandable foam is more like a sponge and will absorb and retain water..... beside welding, the fast way is some 5min epoxy with or without fiberglass.
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2010, 11:24 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Location: Redding, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
Great project, the expandable foam is more like a sponge and will absorb and retain water..... beside welding, the fast way is some 5min epoxy with or without fiberglass.
Good info, that could have been a fairly costly mistake. I'll use the epoxy, then. Thanks for the tip!
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:24 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Almost ready for bedliner

Well, I got it all wire-brushed and cleaned out. While I was at it I took the vent grilles off and found that (as usual) they were packed with decomposed leaves and other detritus.


The shop-vac's short fitting went in easily and in less than 5 minutes per side it was all cleaned out. When I get to that stage, I'll remove the grille by the windshield wipers and fit some screen in there, then put it back. No more leaves!

I've got it all painted with the rust-stopper stuff. In the main floor area I used the rust-shield. For some of the worst areas I used a rust converter paint. That stuff is stinky! On the plus side, I think the fumes must have killed all the black widows in the Jeep.

Today is too cold and wet to paint in the bedliner, so tomorrow is the day, hopefully.

For the wiring, coming up after the bedliner task, I think I'll get a 21-circuit harness from eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_702wt_1167

I've read about the EZ Wiring kits and they seem ok.

I'll also get a Dakota Digital gauge set from BJs Offroad:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/prod-705.htm

If BJs is paying attention: Please get one on hand! I'm ordering within the week!
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  #5  
Old 11-27-2010, 07:31 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Inside spare tire mount detail

Hey, anybody wanting ideas for an inside-the-car spare tire mount, here's one. I took this off the '72 today. Of course, it'll only work for smaller tire sizes, but:





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  #6  
Old 11-27-2010, 07:41 PM
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jaber jaber is offline
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  #7  
Old 08-02-2011, 11:15 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Gas tank removal pics

Here's the tank, still inside the skidplate, cemented in there with oily rust-gunk:



Oily rust-gunk detail:



Section of frame where tank was mounted:



Horribly rusted skidplate:







I ordered a 2" body lift from BJs Offroad tonight. I'm going to have another look at the skidplate and see if I need to buy a new one (close to $400!!! ).
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:07 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Late find about your swap.

Definitively an eye opener on the rusted gas tank skid plate.... I have a cali 85..... need to check it out.
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Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #9  
Old 08-13-2011, 10:06 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Location: Redding, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
Late find about your swap.
Welcome!
Quote:
Definitively an eye opener on the rusted gas tank skid plate.... I have a cali 85..... need to check it out.
I took about an hour to clean the skid plate. I chipped the crud and rust out with an old wood chisel, then used a drill motor and wire brush. Turns out most of the rust seems to have been from somewhere else than the skid plate. I hope.

Yes, the plate was rusty and there were two places where it was pinholed, but all in all it was pretty solid. It was all galvanized metal and seemed to have lasted fairly well. I don't have the scratch to put up $400-ish for a new skid plate, so I think I'll try to re-use it while hedging my bets.

I drilled drain holes in strategic (I hope) places, cleaned it out really well (Dawn dish soap and a wheel brush), dried it, then painted it with Rust Mort (cha-ching!). Last night I sprayed it with a coat of hammered black. Looks great!

I also ordered a rubber mat and support bracket from Team Grand Wagoneer. The original support bracket was not galvanized. Interesting...

Also yesterday I cleaned off the poly tank and then removed the fuel sender and cleaned all that off. I drained as much of the old fuel as I could (not easy, must have looked like I was playing WWE - smackdown! - with it). One of the nipples in the fuel sender assembly had come loose, so I did some JB Weldin' on it. The float had fuel in it, so I'm not sure what I can do about that. Coat it with rubber cement? Are replacements available? Time for some research.

Last week I tore out all the old wiring harness, labeling all the blinkers, headlight ends, etc. that I think I'll need for the new wiring harness. I ordered a bunch of relays and pigtails from MCM Electronics (online, Google them - good prices). I'm going to clean up the engine compartment wiring, using ideas from Alan Horvath's web site.

Aside: Mr Horvath seems to have been a good guy. RIP man.
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  #10  
Old 08-13-2011, 04:03 PM
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JPSwapMohn JPSwapMohn is offline
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You can get replacement sending units. I ordered one from BJ's along with the poly tank that I put into the NT Cherokee that I gave my Dad. The top of my original metal tan had holes rusted through it, along with the area around the sending unit. Lots o rust inside as well..

Getting the contraption out from under the rig was no fun. Putting the new one in was not so bad..

Looks like you are having a good time!
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  #11  
Old 08-14-2011, 08:05 AM
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newtojeeps newtojeeps is offline
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2006
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look in the adds Some one was selling a tank coffin for 150. oem new I was warned against doing this as the CHP down here check the vin on the firewall and frame.
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