My '78 Wagoneer had a Radiator leak. I do believe the housing got bent at some point, and while I can keep it running for about the cost of one jug of coolant a month, here is as a good as anywhere to start replacing and improving parts. I currently hit 200-205 on the temp gauge after a decent strip of driving, and it holds there. I'd like to get it below that, and of course improve on the stock radiator. The goal here is to make this a daily driver, and ultimately a roadtrip worthy vehicle (MPG be DAMMED) So, recommendations....and GO!
Debate Time!
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If you can find a repair shop around, just have your radiator cleaned and repaired. If they are any good it should be better than most you can buy now days unless you spend some $$$.
Unless you are running some power adders or something, the stock radiator is fine in good condition.
If you have to replace, there are Spectra ones from Autozone, or one from BJsoffroad. Stock type for $275 or aluminum cross flow for $500.
I want one of those cross flow ones, but mine is doing the job for now.
As far as
200-205 on the temp gauge after a decent strip of driving, and it holds there.
As long as it holds there, regardless of how long or hard you run it, its doing as it should. You could swap in a cooler thermostat if you really want it to stay cooler, but it dont really benefit you any.
I would get the radiator taken care of (fixed or replaced.... even bling alu-crossflow if you want) and go from there. Maybe flush the system before you swap radiators, that way you dont push junk thru the new/repaired one. Throw new hoses and t-stat on with the fixed radiator, and see if it holds at operating temp, whatever that may be for the new t-stat.
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Could be a 195* thermostat but based on conditions that's where it settled out. In that case a better rad, or cleaning his core, might drop the running temp..Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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Thanks for the info. Sorry took me a while to reply. I threw some stop leak in it, and it;s been holding fluid fine for now. As for holding temp, it spikes at idle, so I have a few other issues, but I've never had it overheat and it's gotten in to the upper 90s here. Maybe I'll keep the old one as a back up, but I am considering doing a resto-mod so I'll probably be modernizing what I can while keeping the look. I know some people hate that. Sorry
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There are also some additives like Redline water wetter that will buy you a couple degrees. I have used it and it does drop temps by a little.
Keep cool!Melford1972 says...
I’d say I feel sorry for you, but I really don’t, Mr. “I-stumble-into-X-models-the-way-most-people-stumble-into-Toyota-Carollas.” 🤣
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1969 CJ-5 41 years owned
1969 1414X Wag in avocado mist
1970 1414X Wag in avocado mist
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Building a m715 over at the m715zone
Beloved wife Elizabeth Ann Temple Murdered by covid on Oct 19th 2021
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that's where you want your temp! I ran a 180* TStat for a while and took it out. My truck took FOREVER to warm up and did not run as well when it wasn't warm enough.
When I did my cooling system "tune up"/Flush, I put in a 180 degree T-Stat. I feel like my truck is always cold, though. Service manual says to use a 195 degree t-stat. What do you guys run? I think am going to install a 195 degree t-stat unless you all run cooler/warmer...
In my opinion, flushing the cooling system, installing a new TStat, and replacing hoses/belts is mandatory when we buy one of these older (or any older) vehicles unless seller has receipts showing they did it recently. If I were in your shoes, I would drain your cooling system, fill it with DI water, drive it until its warm (with the heater blasting) and repeat 3 or more times until the water always comes out totally clear. If you have a leak in your radiator, go get it fixed once the water is clear. Then when you install the fixed radiator, put on new upper/lower/heater hoses, a new 195* TStat, a gallon of coolant concentrate and top off with DI water. I just listed less than $100 in work and it will ensure you have a good cooling system that don't have to worry about.
In my opinion (from what I have seen) the stock cooling system is sufficient on our rigs if it is maintained. I have not towed in the heat but I have sat in stop/go Southern California traffic during the summer and my needle never goes past its normal spot.Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
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Originally posted by KaiserjeepsThere are also some additives like Redline water wetter that will buy you a couple degrees. I have used it and it does drop temps by a little.
Keep cool!Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
(Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
(8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums)
79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
00 Baby Cherokee
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Rant mode: On
No matter what you do, for the love of God, please do not drive a vehicle with a leak (be it coolant, oil, transmission fluid, or whatever). It's tough on the environment, and dangerous for motorcyclists.
Rant mode: OffYou ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."
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Again, great info Stang. You're a god on this site. As for driving with leaks. Man, I do my best, but you do what kinda vehicles we own, right? I can say that my leaky bits seem to only leak stationary. I've driven around the block then retraced my steps and not seen any fluid. I'd never knowingly do anything to harm another motorist. I swear it
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Originally posted by Sir NexusYou're a god on this site.Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
(Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
(8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums)
79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
00 Baby Cherokee
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