Debate Time!

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  • Sir Nexus
    230 Tornado
    • May 15, 2017
    • 17

    Debate Time!

    My '78 Wagoneer had a Radiator leak. I do believe the housing got bent at some point, and while I can keep it running for about the cost of one jug of coolant a month, here is as a good as anywhere to start replacing and improving parts. I currently hit 200-205 on the temp gauge after a decent strip of driving, and it holds there. I'd like to get it below that, and of course improve on the stock radiator. The goal here is to make this a daily driver, and ultimately a roadtrip worthy vehicle (MPG be DAMMED) So, recommendations....and GO!
  • blazer3664
    350 Buick
    • Mar 08, 2009
    • 974

    #2
    If you can find a repair shop around, just have your radiator cleaned and repaired. If they are any good it should be better than most you can buy now days unless you spend some $$$.
    Unless you are running some power adders or something, the stock radiator is fine in good condition.

    If you have to replace, there are Spectra ones from Autozone, or one from BJsoffroad. Stock type for $275 or aluminum cross flow for $500.
    I want one of those cross flow ones, but mine is doing the job for now.

    As far as
    200-205 on the temp gauge after a decent strip of driving, and it holds there.
    If thats where the thermostat is opening, no radiator swap, even a 18 row 10'x12' will change that. It might take longer for everything to get to temp, but once everything is up to temp, it will run whatever the thermostat is rated at. A stock t-stat is 195.

    As long as it holds there, regardless of how long or hard you run it, its doing as it should. You could swap in a cooler thermostat if you really want it to stay cooler, but it dont really benefit you any.

    I would get the radiator taken care of (fixed or replaced.... even bling alu-crossflow if you want) and go from there. Maybe flush the system before you swap radiators, that way you dont push junk thru the new/repaired one. Throw new hoses and t-stat on with the fixed radiator, and see if it holds at operating temp, whatever that may be for the new t-stat.

    Jim
    modified flares, removable top, OBA w/200psi tank,
    LQ4, 4L80e,NWF doubler w/upside down 203
    SOA w/ D44s F+R for now
    H1 wheels+tires (cut), hydroboost brakes
    custom shackle flip
    W/F150 springs
    -----Coming Soon-----
    snorkels,
    OX'd D60/14B-FF

    Comment

    • SJTD
      304 AMC
      • Apr 26, 2012
      • 1953

      #3
      Could be a 195* thermostat but based on conditions that's where it settled out. In that case a better rad, or cleaning his core, might drop the running temp..
      Sic friatur crustulum

      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

      Comment

      • Sir Nexus
        230 Tornado
        • May 15, 2017
        • 17

        #4
        Thanks for the info. Sorry took me a while to reply. I threw some stop leak in it, and it;s been holding fluid fine for now. As for holding temp, it spikes at idle, so I have a few other issues, but I've never had it overheat and it's gotten in to the upper 90s here. Maybe I'll keep the old one as a back up, but I am considering doing a resto-mod so I'll probably be modernizing what I can while keeping the look. I know some people hate that. Sorry

        Comment

        • Kaiserjeeps
          360 AMC
          • Oct 02, 2002
          • 2809

          #5
          There are also some additives like Redline water wetter that will buy you a couple degrees. I have used it and it does drop temps by a little.
          Keep cool!
          Melford1972 says...
          I’d say I feel sorry for you, but I really don’t, Mr. “I-stumble-into-X-models-the-way-most-people-stumble-into-Toyota-Carollas.” 🤣
          -----------------------
          I make wag parts
          1969 CJ-5 41 years owned
          1969 1414X Wag in avocado mist
          1970 1414X Wag in avocado mist
          1968 M715 restomod
          2001 Dodge 3500
          2002 Toyota Tundra
          2006 Toyota 4runner was Liz's, parked



          Building a m715 over at the m715zone
          Beloved wife Elizabeth Ann Temple Murdered by covid on Oct 19th 2021

          Small violin, large amp

          Comment

          • rang-a-stang
            Administrator
            • Oct 31, 2016
            • 5509

            #6
            that's where you want your temp! I ran a 180* TStat for a while and took it out. My truck took FOREVER to warm up and did not run as well when it wasn't warm enough.

            When I did my cooling system "tune up"/Flush, I put in a 180 degree T-Stat. I feel like my truck is always cold, though. Service manual says to use a 195 degree t-stat. What do you guys run? I think am going to install a 195 degree t-stat unless you all run cooler/warmer...


            In my opinion, flushing the cooling system, installing a new TStat, and replacing hoses/belts is mandatory when we buy one of these older (or any older) vehicles unless seller has receipts showing they did it recently. If I were in your shoes, I would drain your cooling system, fill it with DI water, drive it until its warm (with the heater blasting) and repeat 3 or more times until the water always comes out totally clear. If you have a leak in your radiator, go get it fixed once the water is clear. Then when you install the fixed radiator, put on new upper/lower/heater hoses, a new 195* TStat, a gallon of coolant concentrate and top off with DI water. I just listed less than $100 in work and it will ensure you have a good cooling system that don't have to worry about.

            In my opinion (from what I have seen) the stock cooling system is sufficient on our rigs if it is maintained. I have not towed in the heat but I have sat in stop/go Southern California traffic during the summer and my needle never goes past its normal spot.
            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
            (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
            (Cherokee Build Thread)
            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
            00 Baby Cherokee

            Comment

            • rang-a-stang
              Administrator
              • Oct 31, 2016
              • 5509

              #7
              Originally posted by Kaiserjeeps
              There are also some additives like Redline water wetter that will buy you a couple degrees. I have used it and it does drop temps by a little.
              Keep cool!
              Concur! That stuff is awesome! I used to run it in my 5.0 Ranger.
              Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
              (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
              (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
              79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
              (Cherokee Build Thread)
              11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
              09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
              00 Baby Cherokee

              Comment

              • ProTouring442
                327 Rambler
                • Mar 15, 2011
                • 702

                #8
                Rant mode: On

                No matter what you do, for the love of God, please do not drive a vehicle with a leak (be it coolant, oil, transmission fluid, or whatever). It's tough on the environment, and dangerous for motorcyclists.

                Rant mode: Off
                You ever wonder what medieval cook looked at the guts of a pig and thought, "I bet if you washed out that poop tube, you could stuff it with meat and eat it."

                Comment

                • Sir Nexus
                  230 Tornado
                  • May 15, 2017
                  • 17

                  #9
                  Again, great info Stang. You're a god on this site. As for driving with leaks. Man, I do my best, but you do what kinda vehicles we own, right? I can say that my leaky bits seem to only leak stationary. I've driven around the block then retraced my steps and not seen any fluid. I'd never knowingly do anything to harm another motorist. I swear it

                  Comment

                  • rang-a-stang
                    Administrator
                    • Oct 31, 2016
                    • 5509

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Sir Nexus
                    You're a god on this site.
                    I have been called a lot of things (many MUCH less flattering, too) but never that. Most of my info comes from other folks on this site that are MUCH smarter than I am.
                    Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                    (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                    (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                    79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                    (Cherokee Build Thread)
                    11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                    09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                    00 Baby Cherokee

                    Comment

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