Hard cold starts...(2150)

[Mike D]

On my carb ... that was from a ford. The power valve was leaking .... not bad but after a day would empty the bowl and left alot of smell of gas INSIDE the wagoneer. Out side you would never know it was leaking --- well , except the "some what clean" spot on the carb and intake under where it was leaking. The gas was washing away the grease/grime that the rest was collecting ...

[ZackN920]

When it warms up a bit outside, i'm going to pull the carb and rebuild it with my kit. I recently read over Ristow's thread in the tech archives and it actually looks pretty simple. That'll also give me the chance to go over the choke assembly.
I was wondering though, I've seen that some people don't like using the rebuild kit's Power Valve. Should I not use the one in my kit (Walker 5301D), or would that one work ok? What about the Accelerator Pump? Does it matter that the kit is a few years old? (I don't think it would, but...)

When apart, does the carb need to be dipped in a special cleaning fluid (that i'd probably only use once) or can I just dowse the crap out of it with carb cleaner?

[acct21]

If the fuel pump is the most likely reason for fuel getting in my oil, then I'm still confused as to why I have such a strong gas odor after I shut the truck off?

Is your charcoal/evap canister hooked up and functional? If not, the carb bowl vent is likely venting fuel vapors underneath your hood at shutoff.

[j2sax]

Dunking the carb

It really is better to dunk your carb for awhile. it can soften buildup
in tight passages. If you don't want to spend the money for Berrymans, you can get a paint can, or bucket at a hardware store and a gallon of Kerosene. Kerosene cannot hurt your carb, regardless of how long you leave it in (many people have discovered the same cannot be said for carb cleaner! )
Compressed air is great for cleaning things out after a soak, but carb cleaner also works. Either way USE SAFETY GLASSES.

Your fuel pump could also be a greater contributor to your issues than you think. Either way, you need to get that changed as you can imagine what oil diluted with gas can do to all the surfaces it is supposed to be lubricating! A bad fuel pump has caused the permanent demise of many a motor.

Let us know how it works out!

[ZackN920]

Is your charcoal/evap canister hooked up and functional? If not, the carb bowl vent is likely venting fuel vapors underneath your hood at shutoff.

Well, it's all hooked up now. When I bought the truck, there was 1 vacuum hose missing and the rest looked bad on the canister. I put new hoses on it, but other than that, I'm not too sure on functionality of it. I was thinking of rebuilding it any way's after seeing how easy it will be.

It really is better to dunk your carb for awhile. it can soften buildup
in tight passages. If you don't want to spend the money for Berrymans, you can get a paint can, or bucket at a hardware store and a gallon of Kerosene. Kerosene cannot hurt your carb, regardless of how long you leave it in (many people have discovered the same cannot be said for carb cleaner! )
Compressed air is great for cleaning things out after a soak, but carb cleaner also works. Either way USE SAFETY GLASSES.

Your fuel pump could also be a greater contributor to your issues than you think. Either way, you need to get that changed as you can imagine what oil diluted with gas can do to all the surfaces it is supposed to be lubricating! A bad fuel pump has caused the permanent demise of many a motor.

Let us know how it works out!

I can use Kerosene?! I didn't know that! We've got some just sitting around.
I've got a lot of carb cleaner's too, just sitting around. I need to get a small air tube though(and lever valve) for blowing small stuff off/out.
Yea, I was planning on changing the fuel pump too now, better safe than sorry. It will also give me a reason to put a fresh filter on too.

I'm still wondering, should I pick up a different power valve and/or the accelerator pump? Or will it be fine with whats in my kit.

[nograin]

My experience has been that the GP Sorenson and Walker kits are cross listed, and therefore *might* be the same. If you read the links I posted earlier, you'll see that kit is not really oriented to the AMC Jeep versions.

Power valve and acc pump probably fine. Never had an issue there. Even the old ones might be fine but the acc pump check valve I might replace because the carb cleaner will damage it and its not reusable once its removed. For complete instructions and all the gaskets, get a kit for your carb. Some folks here like Daytona, so you can add that as a possible place to buy a good kit.

[ZackN920]

Ok, I opened my carb kit up, and according to the paper work inside, it is for my Jeep/AMC 2150 carb. Not a ford. So I figure I'll use it.

It turns out, we don't have kerosene... What I thought was cans of that, was something else, so I went to Walmart and bought a 1 gallon can of the Berryman's. Was only $20, so no big deal and I can use it for other stuff later.

Well, I tore the carb off and apart. I found that 1 of the carb mount nut's was loose... When I took the carb off the intake, I also noticed that there is a 3/4" spacer under it. Is that stock?

When I tore the carb apart, I found that my power valve is bad. The hose connected to it smelled like raw fuel too. I don't know why I didn't smell it before.

Anyway's, I was going to dunk the carb since I disassembled it, but I found out the da*n thing wont fit in the 1 gallon paint can the dip came in, so tomorrow i've got to find a bucket or something to pour it in. When I dunk it, How long do I leave it in? couple hour's, half a day, whole day?

Do I do anything with the weird bellows? thingamajig that was on the back of the carb?

[nograin]

I suspect the Power valve's diaphram pre-dates the high percentage of oxygenates in the fuel. Mine was the same when I bought my waggy. The ethanol can cause deterioration of many rubber fuel components that would be otherwise OK with gasoline..

Found the same as you with Berryman's 1 gal can. Just used it for Holley metering blocks etc and didn't really care for how it worked. Gave it to a friend with Triumph motorbike...

In any event, use spray cleaner in the passages when you've got the worst of it cleaned whatever you use, and if you have an air supply, gently blow them out. Keep all the cleaners away from anything rubber.

I use lasagna pans or similar for containing the mess. Eye protection when spraying is smart, as is nitrile gloves.

Ristow's Motorcraft 2150 Rebuild Thread will help guide you through your rebuild.

The Motorcraft manual for the earlier model of this carb will help you understand what the different passages do.
see http://www.carburetor-blog.com/free-...epair-manuals/
Go down 'till you find the pdf for a Motorcraft. Covers both 2 barrel (2100) and 4 bbl (4100) versions.
The thing to remember is that the driving forces are low pressure zones relative to the close to atmospheric pressure in the bowl. The only exception is the acclerator pump used to add fuel mecahnically when opening the throttle from nearly closed positions.

[JeepJeepster]

I believe I poured mine into a bucket and soaked it overnight. Then I flipped it over and did the other half since it wasnt fully submerged.

Do you have the fsm for your year fsj? I found the measurements were all different from certain sources. Ours seems to be doing great set to the fsm specs.

Bellows are set and nothing can be done with those. Dont dunk those or anything. Mine were warped something horrible. I tried sanding them flat but ended up having to use permatex ultra black to seal it up. It had a decent gap when I screwed it on.

[stonehengeheels]

"When I got the truck the choke wouldn't close. There is a little rod that goes downward that I had to disconnect because it was seized up. If I remember right it connects to a little cam that will raise the idle up when the choke is closed. Mines all jammed up."

Mine was too. When I pulled the top of the carb off there was a little plastic plate that the rod ran through, I guess as a guide of sorts, that was jamming it. I removed the guide and it has worked great since then.

[ZackN920]

Thanks for the info y'all. Too cold right now to be doing much work. Especially on the truck itself, since there's no heat in the building it sit's in.

In any event, use spray cleaner in the passages when you've got the worst of it cleaned whatever you use, and if you have an air supply, gently blow them out. Keep all the cleaners away from anything rubber.

I use lasagna pans or similar for containing the mess. Eye protection when spraying is smart, as is nitrile gloves.

Ristow's Motorcraft 2150 Rebuild Thread will help guide you through your rebuild.

The Motorcraft manual for the earlier model of this carb will help you understand what the different passages do.
see http://www.carburetor-blog.com/free-...epair-manuals/
Go down 'till you find the pdf for a Motorcraft. Covers both 2 barrel (2100) and 4 bbl (4100) versions.

Got plenty of spray carb cleaner. I also now have a little blower spicket for blowing small stuff off.
I actually copied Ristow's post's to a flash drive so I can look it over, as I work on the carb. No internet where it's at. That's a nice guide.
Thanks for the links for the Motorcraft manual. I may put that on the flash drive as well and look it over when I'm blowing the carb out.

The thing to remember is that the driving forces are low pressure zones relative to the close to atmospheric pressure in the bowl. The only exception is the acclerator pump used to add fuel mecahnically when opening the throttle from nearly closed positions.

????are you talking about the bellow's????

I believe I poured mine into a bucket and soaked it overnight. Then I flipped it over and did the other half since it wasnt fully submerged.

Do you have the fsm for your year fsj? I found the measurements were all different from certain sources. Ours seems to be doing great set to the fsm specs.

Bellows are set and nothing can be done with those. Dont dunk those or anything. Mine were warped something horrible. I tried sanding them flat but ended up having to use permatex ultra black to seal it up. It had a decent gap when I screwed it on.

I picked up a bucket it should fit in this weekend. Hopefully the core will fit and the dip is still over it,so I don't have to flip it.
Nope, I don't have a FSM. I looked a few weeks back for one and found that they're kind of expensive.
Ok, i'll leave the bellows alone. Mine looked fine, didn't notice any signs of warpage, at least on the casing/mounting points.

Mine was too. When I pulled the top of the carb off there was a little plastic plate that the rod ran through, I guess as a guide of sorts, that was jamming it. I removed the guide and it has worked great since then.

Guess what I found with mine.... Same as you. I just didn't do much about it. I'll address it later when I'm setting the carb back up.

[nograin]

The thing to remember is that the driving forces are low pressure zones relative to the close to atmospheric pressure in the bowl. The only exception is the acclerator pump used to add fuel mecahnically when opening the throttle from nearly closed positions.
????are you talking about the bellow's????

Not at all. That's an altitude compensator.

I'm talking very generally about the principle of a how the carburator works.
HIGH PRESSURE drives->>> FLUID (air, fuel, or a combination) to->> LOW PRESSURE.
That's it.

Here's a drawing borrowed and modified to illustrate this.
Air inside the aircleaner is at or nearly at atmospheric pressure.
The engine's pistons try to pull air into the cylinders as long as the intake valve is open; but there are restrictions in the way.
At idle, the throttle is the main restriction to the air flow. This creates a low pressure zone below the throttle.


Lets say the pressure below the throttle blade is 7.4 psia. Then fuel and air is getting pushed by the 14.7 psi toward the 7.4 psi areas along whatever routes are available. The difference between 14.7 and 7.4 psia is 7.3 psi. This is the same as saying there is 7.3 psi of vacuum relative to the air cleaner. However we almost always talk about vacuum in terms of inches of mercury. -7.3 psi = 15"Hg vacuum.

On the main circuits, the low pressure is created by the air speeding past the little tubes sticking out into the venturi. Similar concept as used for
bug or paint sprayers to lift the fluid out of the jar.
see here for illustration http://www.imperialclub.org/Repair/L...273/Page03.htm

And here's a crude illustration a 2100/2150's main system in operation.



The fuel bowl remains at atmospheric or near atmospheric Ppressure. But the main restriction with the throttle open is the venturi. Instead of manifold vacuum, the air velocity past the boosters creates low pressure. This is an efficient system that responds and rapidly to changes in air flow.

[Auburnmark]

Great explanation and illustrations nograin.. Just rebuilt mine last week but now I have a better understanding of how the thing actually works.
Thanks!

[ZackN920]

Wow, nice write up! Thanks for that, clears things up. And it makes more sense.

[ZackN920]

Well, I dipped the carb last weekend, and rebuilt it earlier this week. Turns out though, my kit had the wrong accelerator pump diaphram. It had one with a button on it, instead of the rod, so for now I reused the old one. Didn't want to but there's no other option right now.
Put the carb on yesterday, and finished the install today. Cranked it over for 10 seconds and it fired right up. Tapped the throttle and that knocked it down a few rpms like it's supposed too.
Still could use a few adjustments. Choke doesn't open very fast. I was told by a retired mechanic that it should be fully open in about 3 minutes or so. It also won't go to low warm idle. and of coarse, its hard as hell to see the fast idle linkage with everything attached....Well at least I don't have to worry about it stalling anymore after start

Is there any adjustments I need to worry about from here when it comes to the carb?- other than the slight choke adjustments? Seems like it idles well and what not(w/ idle screws set at 2.5 turns), revs real easily and doesn't smell like its dumping fuel into itself either! Didn't get the chance to actually drive it today. I just ran it for 20 mins or so while checking over things and replaced a few more vac lines.