Tank Mods
The posted tank dimensions didn’t tell everything about the tank as they all have two plateaus or levels at the top of the tank and this is important because the raised portion has to fit between the rear axle and the transition in the FSJ floor where it steps down from the rear seating and cargo area to the front floor pans. After comparing them side by side I felt the short bed one had a better chance of fitting and proceeded to scratch up a new short bed C10 tank (I got from summitracing, SUM-255008, $93). The length and width were good but it is a little taller than the FSJ tank and its raised portion is longer meaning when elevated up into position it crashes into the FSJ crossmember that secures the oe fuel tank strap. Also, the C10 tank hung down below the frame rail. I wanted to reuse the original FSJ fuel tank skid plate without losing any ground clearance. Committed to making the best of it without cutting into the FSJ floor or crossmember, I proceeded down the path of modifying the C10 tank to fit.
Let me just pause for a moment here with a cautionary disclaimer whenever working with fuel tanks. This was a brand-new tank never exposed to fuel and devoid of any smell or other volatile chemicals. Still, special care was considered before the first spark was created. While a used tank can be carefully cleaned and have oxygen deprived exhaust gases flowed through it to displace combustible vapors, I cannot stress enough that putting a source of ignition anywhere near a used fuel tank is extremely dangerous.
Ok, that said, I knew about how much the C10 tank hung below the frame rail and therefore about how much I wanted to take out of it, about 2” should give adequate clearance. I debated on where to cut the tank so the top and bottom portions would realign best because the tank does have some tapering so it wasn’t going to be perfect.
After a butt welding attempt blew through the thin ~21 gauge material, I separated the halves again and ended up sliding the top half of the tank just inside the bottom half. The seams formed together for a much easier lap weld but it gave up another ~1” of tank height I hadn’t planned on losing. So, the 16 gal tank is down to about 12 gal capacity after taking about 3” out of it.
Taping the halves in place just before stitching it back together.
Because the ends weren’t perfectly vertical, some mating edges had to be folder over or pressed together in spots.
All glued back together
The posted tank dimensions didn’t tell everything about the tank as they all have two plateaus or levels at the top of the tank and this is important because the raised portion has to fit between the rear axle and the transition in the FSJ floor where it steps down from the rear seating and cargo area to the front floor pans. After comparing them side by side I felt the short bed one had a better chance of fitting and proceeded to scratch up a new short bed C10 tank (I got from summitracing, SUM-255008, $93). The length and width were good but it is a little taller than the FSJ tank and its raised portion is longer meaning when elevated up into position it crashes into the FSJ crossmember that secures the oe fuel tank strap. Also, the C10 tank hung down below the frame rail. I wanted to reuse the original FSJ fuel tank skid plate without losing any ground clearance. Committed to making the best of it without cutting into the FSJ floor or crossmember, I proceeded down the path of modifying the C10 tank to fit.
Let me just pause for a moment here with a cautionary disclaimer whenever working with fuel tanks. This was a brand-new tank never exposed to fuel and devoid of any smell or other volatile chemicals. Still, special care was considered before the first spark was created. While a used tank can be carefully cleaned and have oxygen deprived exhaust gases flowed through it to displace combustible vapors, I cannot stress enough that putting a source of ignition anywhere near a used fuel tank is extremely dangerous.
Ok, that said, I knew about how much the C10 tank hung below the frame rail and therefore about how much I wanted to take out of it, about 2” should give adequate clearance. I debated on where to cut the tank so the top and bottom portions would realign best because the tank does have some tapering so it wasn’t going to be perfect.
After a butt welding attempt blew through the thin ~21 gauge material, I separated the halves again and ended up sliding the top half of the tank just inside the bottom half. The seams formed together for a much easier lap weld but it gave up another ~1” of tank height I hadn’t planned on losing. So, the 16 gal tank is down to about 12 gal capacity after taking about 3” out of it.
Taping the halves in place just before stitching it back together.
Because the ends weren’t perfectly vertical, some mating edges had to be folder over or pressed together in spots.
All glued back together
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