?- re: Trackbar Mount

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  • Theodore
    258 I6
    • Sep 10, 2018
    • 253

    ?- re: Trackbar Mount

    With all the talk of returning our Wagoneer to stock height, from 3 inch lift, Ive been under it a lot lately - and saw something that gave me pause, having watched quite a few death wobble videos on youtube... Am wondering what the community says about this.



    Can say, I ran it by an alignment shop to see what they had to say. Tests showed no obvious movement, both recommended welding a washer on it to tighten up the hole.

    As we think about lowering it, am thinking about going new for suspension related components. Originally, was just thinking springs/shocks, but am now thinking that, plus sway bar ends links, tie rod ends, and steering stabilizer shock. And, wondering about whether to add a track bar and drag link to the list, so at the end - we know what we have vs. fixing one thing after another one at a time...

    From what i can tell, the Wagoneer has sat for possibly years, and the more i drive it, the more seals leak, etc.

  • #2
    There's really no reason to replace the entire track bar, but the bushings at either end would probably be a good plan. As far as the mount, you could weld a plate or washer on each side to recenter the hole if you're concerned about it. I honestly doubt you'll even notice a difference if the track bar is removed entirely. It doesn't play nearly the role on a leaf sprung rig as it does with coils. The sway bar is FAR more important than the track bar on our rigs.


    aa
    1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

    Comment

    • yossarian19
      258 I6
      • Nov 13, 2016
      • 402

      #3
      What you've got there is a new hole drilled off to one side to account for the lateral displacement caused by the lift.
      Go back to the original hole and add a weld washer if you are concerned or if it proves to be a'moving

      Comment

      • Gadzooks2
        232 I6
        • Sep 19, 2006
        • 195

        #4
        Or throw the trac bar way and keep it from trying to shove your leaf springs out of their bushings as it swings it's arc and gets longer and shorter..
        78' J-9, 96' XJ

        Comment

        • Tripwire
          AMC 4 OH! 1
          • Jul 30, 2000
          • 4656

          #5
          i am pretty sure you dont NEED a trackbar.....those are for coil spring setups, i removed mine from baby jeep and the ride difference is huge + the travel is greatly improved, a tad bit more softer/"sprinngy" . have not done it on big wag as its a daily driver

          on my year rig AMC added them because of dip owners flipping their rigs
          Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

          86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

          88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

          Comment

          • rang-a-stang
            Administrator
            • Oct 31, 2016
            • 5498

            #6
            If you search "track bar" on this forum, most hits you will get are people asking some question about "do I need one?" "What happens if I take mine off" "should I replace it?", etc. and the answer is almost always, "remove it, you don't need it, unless you tow, often."

            Keep in mind, pretty much all FSJs had almost the exact same suspension set up and only the newest ones got that track bar. I think Gadzooks2 hit the nail on the head. If'n it were my rig, I would remove it, throw it in the spare parts box, and call it done. If you don't like the way it rides/drives once it's off, take Cecil14/yossarian19 advice.

            You also said:
            Originally posted by Theodore
            ...am thinking about going new for suspension related components. Originally, was just thinking springs/shocks, but am now thinking that, plus sway bar ends links, tie rod ends, and steering stabilizer shock. And, wondering about whether to add a track bar and drag link to the list, so at the end - we know what we have vs. fixing one thing after another one at a time...
            Sway bar end links: they are actually little bushings. Super cheap. Buy them. they make a difference and are worth the time to replace. You don't need the whole link.
            Tie Rod ends: don't replace them unless you check them and they are bad. There are a lot of crappy tie rod ends out there and you will have better luck with factory. Just make sure you check each one. If you want good tie rods, drag link ends, etc. you have to pay for them.
            Steering stabilizer: I replaced mine because it still had the original one. The original one was COMPLETELY toast. It was like a screw driver poked into a soda can. I put a nice new Monroe stabilizer on in it's place with a new boot. I didn't notice ANY difference whatsoever in the way my truck drives.
            Also, add to your list to check the rag joint and if it's worn, do the XJ intermediate shaft replacement. If you have steering slop, also check to ensure your steering box is adjusted.
            Originally posted by Theodore
            From what i can tell, the Wagoneer has sat for possibly years, and the more i drive it, the more seals leak, etc.
            The joys of owning a FSJ. I have spent 3 years fixing leaks. I still have them. I am sure it is possible to have a FSJ that does not leak but I am not sure how.
            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
            (Cherokee Build Thread)
            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
            00 Baby Cherokee

            Comment

            • ZackN920
              350 Buick
              • Nov 18, 2015
              • 944

              #7
              Originally posted by Theodore
              With all the talk of returning our Wagoneer to stock height, from 3 inch lift, Ive been under it a lot lately - and saw something that gave me pause, having watched quite a few death wobble videos on youtube... Am wondering what the community says about this.



              Can say, I ran it by an alignment shop to see what they had to say. Tests showed no obvious movement, both recommended welding a washer on it to tighten up the hole.

              As we think about lowering it, am thinking about going new for suspension related components. Originally, was just thinking springs/shocks, but am now thinking that, plus sway bar ends links, tie rod ends, and steering stabilizer shock. And, wondering about whether to add a track bar and drag link to the list, so at the end - we know what we have vs. fixing one thing after another one at a time...

              From what i can tell, the Wagoneer has sat for possibly years, and the more i drive it, the more seals leak, etc.
              That picture looks factory to me. When I put new springs under the front of my 1990 (and when I rebuilt/AAL'd my rears) I noticed that the factory holes for the mounts are wide. Its 1 whole hole. Just a ---...wide hole. Worked great for me as I still had a good place to re-attach the bar on front and rear after the lift. I know others say you don't need them but... idk. Seems too much trouble to completely remove them if they still fit. I do wonder if the ride would change at all if I got rid of them. I could see the suspension flexing much better without them, but I don't off-road hard enough to warrant that or even "easy to remove/attach" sway bar end links. I also like the idea of them still there in case you snap main leafs, like the snapped mains on the front of my Jeep that I replaced.

              It does look like yours is missing a washer on the front. Supposed to have bolt, washer, mount, spacer thing, trackbar end, spacer thing(its 1 piece), mount, washer then nut. You just tighten it down. With the bushing at the end of the trackbar, any motion wont be impeded.
              I don't think you'd need to replace everything all willy-nilly. Just whatever's needed/loose. That's what I did for mine, but then again I changed a lot because mine was really messed up when I got the Jeep.


              Originally posted by rang-a-stang
              The joys of owning a FSJ. I have spent 3 years fixing leaks. I still have them. I am sure it is possible to have a FSJ that does not leak but I am not sure how.
              I'm at a point that I just don't care. Gives me a reason to go under the hood and check things out once every week or 2. Currently leaking coolant (from the engine) , power steering fluid(hose ends), ATF (pan, think I got this-found loose bolts), and very small amount of oil.
              Last edited by ZackN920; 01-03-2019, 08:34 PM.
              1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

              AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
              Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
              ...in pieces for more rust repair...

              Comment


              • #8
                Panhard bars on leaf springs are to tame the side to side movement of leaf springs flexing on corners. Mushy ride means added controls. Almost every vehicle with them of our bunch has them worn out and the side effect of removal has been the end of the annoying clunk.
                Stock or beefier sway bars with good quality bushings and shocks are what I prefer. Many others too. With quick links, off-road manners and flex are minimally affected.
                Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.

                Comment

                • letank
                  AMC 4 OH! 1
                  • Jun 03, 2002
                  • 4129

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Theodore
                  With all the talk of returning our Wagoneer to stock height, from 3 inch lift, Ive been under it a lot lately - and saw something that gave me pause, having watched quite a few death wobble videos on youtube... Am wondering what the community says about this.



                  Can say, I ran it by an alignment shop to see what they had to say. Tests showed no obvious movement, both recommended welding a washer on it to tighten up the hole.
                  this is the oem configuration, same non-round hole on the rear axle. the bar has to move .
                  Michel
                  74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
                  85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

                  Comment

                  • SJTD
                    304 AMC
                    • Apr 26, 2012
                    • 1951

                    #10
                    Are you saying it has to move while driving?

                    Makes no sense. If it moves it isn't doing anything.
                    Sic friatur crustulum

                    '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                    Comment

                    • letank
                      AMC 4 OH! 1
                      • Jun 03, 2002
                      • 4129

                      #11
                      Originally posted by SJTD
                      Are you saying it has to move while driving?

                      Makes no sense. If it moves it isn't doing anything.


                      its job is to track, and it is limiting the motion to prevent that large boat rolling effect.


                      BJ's sells a relocation kit and it has the same oblong hole


                      Michel
                      74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
                      85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

                      Comment

                      • wiley-moeracing
                        350 Buick
                        • Feb 15, 2010
                        • 1430

                        #12
                        the oblong hole is there to allow it some misalignment to bolt in then tighten down when the suspension is settled and straight. It is not supposed to move back and forth, if it does then the bolts are loose. This is not a critical suspension piece like on a coil spring set up, there will not be the stresses on it.

                        Comment

                        • SJTD
                          304 AMC
                          • Apr 26, 2012
                          • 1951

                          #13
                          If the bar is of any use at all I'd say it's in limiting the the initial play in the suspension. With the bolt loose it wouldn't do anything until the body moved quite a bit.
                          Sic friatur crustulum

                          '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

                          Comment

                          • iapexl8r
                            232 I6
                            • Jul 06, 2018
                            • 77

                            #14
                            "It was like a screw driver poked into a soda can." I can relate to this
                            thanks for the smile Rang
                            1976 Cherokee chief
                            1970 AMC rebel THE MACHINE
                            1969 AMX
                            1965 mustang fastback
                            1972 international travelette
                            Yes I have a problem that?s why Iam here

                            Comment

                            • ZackN920
                              350 Buick
                              • Nov 18, 2015
                              • 944

                              #15
                              I can't remember if I mentioned this or not.

                              When I got everything back together after putting "new" front springs in, I left that nut and bolt loose (connecting the trackbar)at the axle. Took it for a little drive and noticed that the whole axle shifted a bit while steering. It was weird and jerky if not moving forward or reverse. So, this bolt NEEDs to be tight once things are settled.

                              Just thinking....I wonder if my spring bushings and shackles are too soft/loose then? Others say the bar isn't needed, but if I didn't have it, just think of the wandering problems I would most likely have. If the axle can move while steering back and forth while just sitting it would do the same while casually driving...
                              1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                              AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                              Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                              ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                              Comment

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