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  #1  
Old 03-06-2002, 11:50 AM
Joker Joker is offline
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Happened on the way to work tonite. Left rear wheel and axle came out. I was lucky I was pullin in the plant when it happened and wasn't going that fast. I have been hearing what I thought was my rear brakes(needed to be done for a long time)so I replaced pads and cylinders yesterday. But the sound was still there I thought I needed to adjust the pads again but I didn't have time and work is not far away. What do I do now, I had it towed home and it's my daily driver(was). Any advice ?
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2002, 12:41 PM
rigger rigger is offline
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ouch soory about your luck .all i can say is when i have any thing apart,or even here noises i go over every bolt there. hind sight is allways 20/20
you said pads so you have a different set up then me so i can't help more .
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2002, 01:02 PM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
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Sounds like your retaining ring or the bearing itself let go. I would try and source a different shaft for that side, as this one can be scored or bent, or maybe worn too much to hold the retaining ring.
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2002, 03:50 PM
Stolen76 Stolen76 is offline
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I've seen a few of these posts, and they are kinda un-nerving. Is the axle shaft what actually holds the wheel assembly on the axle ?
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2002, 11:59 PM
NYC NYC is offline
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Same thing happened to the shop when they put the locker in Bushwood - finished up, went for test drive, made a slow u-turn, axle and wheel exited the Jeep.

The owner of the shop said it was the retaining ring (?) He said that there was another type of bearing that did not rely on the ring, but that it was standard for the Jeep. He replace the bearing (on both sides) with the other style... no, I don't know how to source that bearing. I can call him and ask if someone here can't answer it first.
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2002, 03:53 AM
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Don S Don S is offline
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If the "C-clip" "falls" off a freshly reworked axle There would be one huge pile of dandruff scatched off the top of my head. Believe I"d watch'um pull off the cover to see if the clip is in there...... ....back to my cage....ds..
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2002, 01:08 PM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
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The bearing must be pressed on to the axle, but I have never heard of a bearing that doesn't ALSO need a retaining-ring pressed on inboard of the bearing race to hold it firmly in place. I'm imagining that it has a tighter interference fit than the inner race.

But yeah, that bearing and retaining-ring are all that hold the axle, and hence the wheel bolted to it, in place.
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2002, 01:17 PM
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Rande Rande is offline
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C clip? What C clip? I just went through this with my ScoutII. There are two different bearings that will fit the axle. One has straighbearing rollers and the other has tapered bearing rollers. My ScoutII does not have C clips on the axle. It is held in by the tapered bearings. They are designed such that in the event of bearing roller failure, the inner race cannot pass through the outer bearing race. The axle stays in the housing. If this happens with the straight roller bearing, the inner race passes right through the outer race and the axle comes right out.
When I had the bearings replaced on my axles, the machine shop had information indicating that the two styles of bearing were interchangeable. They are... but on C clip axles only! Non-C clip axles only use the tapered roller bearing.
Chicago Rawhide makes the BR10 bearing that has the straight rollers, Timkin makes the SET10 bearing with the tapered rollers.
So, if you have C clips, then either bearing will work. If your axle doesn't use C clips then use only tapered bearings. Timkin Set10 is a very well made bearing.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2002, 02:11 PM
WINGO WINGO is offline
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These bearings from NAPA work:

NAPA REAR WHEEL BEARING
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2002, 02:35 PM
greenchero greenchero is offline
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C-clips are used in GM diffs, because the bearing is pressed into the axle tube (maybe other manufacturers, don't know for sure). The dana diffs use a retaing ring to hold the bearing in place and then there are four bolts through the backing plate into the flange on the axle tube (with the exception of the full floaters). Sounds like your axle is wore out where the retaining ring is pressed on.
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  #11  
Old 03-07-2002, 02:35 PM
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Don S Don S is offline
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Rande......Joker and NYC didn't state witch type of rearend that they had problems with. I knew a a poor fellow who, being in a hurry forgot to install C-clips. I think it was a d-35c on a Grand Cherokee....... [img]smile.gif[/img] .....ds
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Sold our 1976 Wagoneer 406, MC4300, TH400, QT, TruTrac, 2" lift, 31x10.50s, duel Optimas,
It’s took us over 161 Colorado Mountain Passes, 3 Jeep Jamboree USAs & 2 Ouray Invasions from 1985 to 2010
ACRONYMS & ABBREVIATIONS HERE
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2002, 02:48 PM
Joker Joker is offline
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I am going to take it to a local jeep guru who said he would fix it where it wouldn't do it again. He is highly recommended so I am goning to let him do the work. He also said it didn't have a C clip in this type axle the the bearing set was the only thing holding it in. Also more good luck, my wife's soccer wagon just went T*Ts up. Bad fuel pump, modular pump in tank $$$$. So I am renting a car till that one is fixed. So I guess the Beast will have to take a back seat until then. Alot of good advice and info from all Thanks
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  #13  
Old 03-07-2002, 03:27 PM
Thomas DeBusk Thomas DeBusk is offline
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Careful here!

I think we've got some apples and oranges comparisons here and incomplete information.

Our Wags have different axles for different years: AMC 20 and Dana 44, to name two. My 1983 Wag Limited (same as the original post here) had the EXACT SAME THING happen last August. And despite the fact that it had a tapered bearing, the axle came out just the same way. I'm still cleaning up the aftermath.

My axle (AMC 20) has no C-clip. But it does have a "press", or "interference" fit collar that holds the axle in. This kind of fit means the internal dimension of the ring is actually smaller than the shaft it fits on. That's why it takes a hydraulic press to install the ring and bearing. But when the bearing seizes from age or lack of lubrication, it can overcome that fit, and the axle comes right out. Really not very pleasant.

After lots of research, I've concluded you can install either tapered or round bearings on these axles. If you use the round bearings, you must leave out the inner axle seal so the diff. fluid lubricates the wheel bearings. If you use tapered bearings, you must packt he bearings with grease, and use the inner seal to keep the grease where it belongs.

My axle originally had tapered bearings and an inner seal. NAPA claims the round bearing is later and better and that's what I used to replace the original bearings. And I didn't use the inner seal.

Anybody care to make any corrections here? I started two long threads about this about a month ago. Seems like this would be a good topic for the archive.

Thomas
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2002, 04:11 PM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
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Though the axles are different, the bearings and retaining method are identical (SET10 with a retaining-ring).
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2002, 02:54 AM
blackjeep2002 blackjeep2002 is offline
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Unhappy

Had the same thing happen to me only it was on the highway at 65MPH. I heard some truckers on the CB talking about "the shower of sparks coming from that truck in the southbound lane." NO one was hurt and I managed to get the Jeep off of the road and on to the shoulder. I had to get a new shaft for that side because the old one was scored too bad. I smelled the gear oil earlier in the day and thought I just had a leak in the diff cover. WRONG! Anyway, check out the thread "Death inviting rear axle" on the board. It had a lot of good info, I just wish I had seen it before it happened to me.
Best of luck,
Keith
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2002, 04:10 AM
NYC NYC is offline
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My '88 GW has a Dana-44 F&R.
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