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Old 02-01-2013, 11:22 PM
KJ Ryu's Avatar
KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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BJ's Hydraulic Clutch

So, something went wrong with my J10's clutch the other day. Not sure yet as I haven't taken it apart to see but, for some reason the throwout bearing refused to move but my foot refused to listen so that thin little threaded adjusting rod (that BJ's does NOT sell) got bent.

I figure this is a good excuse to go hydro but the description for BJ's conversion kit says some stuff about "custom master cylinder configuration" being necessary for FSJs. Anyone have any more info about this? As always, pics are welcome. And thanks!!!
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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:36 PM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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Nobody's used this kit?

If not, does anyone know if 72-86 CJ clutch adjustment rod parts are close enough to use? I can find those here but don't want to waste the money if they just aren't right.

For reference, these are the parts I would need. Mine has apparently been modified, as I have a heim-type joint on the bell-crank side and a very bent rod that is only threaded partway (not all-thread) on the fork end. Haven't bothered to take it out or get pics.


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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:41 PM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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Also, if these parts won't work, can someone tell me the diameter of the ball-end that pushes on the fork?

Thanks for any/every-thing!!
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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
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  #4  
Old 02-06-2013, 06:52 AM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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Ron, back in the day when I had my Cherokee, I had the same issue with the aluminum adjustment rod. Nobody makes them anymore.

I ended up building my own clutch linkage from parts I bought from Jegs.

IIRC, the tube I used was 10.5" long, with heim joints at either end. One left-hand thread, the other was right-hand thread, along with 2 each of the proper jam nuts. I had a friend weld 1 each of the jam nuts to the tubing and installed the heim joints and other jam nuts accordingly. Used grade 5 3/8ths bolts to tie all the parts together and after the first adjustment, never looked back.

My rig had a 360/T-15/D-20 so the measurements should be close enough to yours to work. Oh, if you do it this way, be sure to run the tube thru the firewall before installing the heim joints!
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  #5  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:20 AM
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do you mean the little clutch linkage threaded rod, part #5 in our diagram here:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1122.htm
#5 - Rod Link 1975-1988: #CL-5

If so, we do sell them.

For the hydraulic clutch conversion, custom configuration means that you can't put it directly in front of the clutch pedal as the clutch master will hit the booster.
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2013, 08:22 AM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyrb
do you mean the little clutch linkage threaded rod, part #5 in our diagram here:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1122.htm
#5 - Rod Link 1975-1988: #CL-5

If so, we do sell them.

For the hydraulic clutch conversion, custom configuration means that you can't put it directly in front of the clutch pedal as the clutch master will hit the booster.

Where were you guys 12 years ago when I needed about a half-dozen of those things to make it thru the year?
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1987 Grand Wagoneer
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Quote:
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2013, 08:45 AM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyrb
do you mean the little clutch linkage threaded rod, part #5 in our diagram here:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1122.htm
#5 - Rod Link 1975-1988: #CL-5

If so, we do sell them.

For the hydraulic clutch conversion, custom configuration means that you can't put it directly in front of the clutch pedal as the clutch master will hit the booster.

No, I'm referring to part numbers 12, 13 and that threaded piece that goes into them.

Thanks for the info on the hydro kit!
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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2013, 09:31 AM
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mdill mdill is offline
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The ends are all the same as CJ parts, (same Jeep part number for CJ and FSJ) should not be hard to source.
http://truckprousa.com/i-11781233-crown-automotive-clutch-wear-adjuster-j5359735.html

The ball joint can be had though a number of places, Auveco sells them, pretty much just need a chunk of threaded rod to tie all together
(The rod lenght , I am pretty sure is not the same as CJ, and differs between V8 and I6, cut some thread-all to lenght )
and be done.
Auveco Item#12039 (Example)
http://dixied.com/store/product3503.html (you can figure out the exact one you need)




Quote:
Originally Posted by KJ Ryu
No, I'm referring to part numbers 12, 13 and that threaded piece that goes into them.

Thanks for the info on the hydro kit!
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Last edited by mdill : 02-06-2013 at 10:34 AM.
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2013, 09:34 AM
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Dumpy Dumpy is offline
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When I bought my truck, the joint was held together by a coat hanger! I found one on some random site after days of searching online. I ordered it, and it was about 2 inches too long, so I had to have it machined down. I like the look of the BJ's setup better. That ball and socket joint seems to be a weak link.
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:25 PM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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Finally got this part out so I can find something to replace it. O'R's and AZ were no help today. Hopefully NAPA can find something, tomorrow.

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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
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  #11  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:35 PM
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You can purchase the little ball and socket like your first picture at any Ace Hardware. They are threaded for 3/8in fine thread. Worst case scenario someone has to thread a long 3/8 bolt further, cut off and there you go.


J20 project
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:43 PM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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Ace, huh? Didn't think of there. I did try a farm/ranch store but nothing small enough there. Thanks!
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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-11-2013, 07:04 PM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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So, apparently, this is what "Built FORD Tough" means:



Got the same rod-end that I used to fix the other side of the bell-crank, and some more 3/8-24 all-thread. Anyone see a problem with just rounding one end of the all-thread and screwing it into the rod-end (part #732-1133, for anyone who needs to know)?
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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil

Last edited by KJ Ryu : 06-11-2013 at 07:10 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2013, 07:39 PM
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KJ Ryu KJ Ryu is offline
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It lives again! Probably still needs the clutch changed but, after changing out the adjuster push-rod, I can shift and drive, again! Woohoo!
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Ron

2005 KJ, Hit-n-Run, 2am 6-17-2012, Totaled.
1977 J10, 2v304, T18, D20, 37x14s, SOA & SF on tons, still ugly Occasional driving!
1978 SJ Wagoneer, 360, QT, 33x12.5s, lift by Sawzall NOT Running
1977 J10 4v401, TH400, BW1339, mostly stock DD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
One man's trans leak is another's penetrating oil
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