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  #221  
Old 12-03-2012, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
Looking good!
Any clearance issues with the thicker screen?

Mike

Not as far as I can tell. I need to get the rubber bumpers on, and if those interfere, I can trim the screen.

I like it cause it's pretty sturdy stuff.
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  #222  
Old 12-03-2012, 05:52 PM
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streetglide streetglide is offline
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Brad....looks like your moving right along. everything looks very nice.
Summit does have the band style lap joints that your looking for that are a stepped design. Just look for the correct size you need. Couple examples below:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692250 and
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-692300
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  #223  
Old 12-03-2012, 07:15 PM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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Brad, here is a link to the paint we were discussing. I was advised to use it on plastic, metals, vinyls and leathers.

I have used it on plastics, my metal dash and vinyl dash pad. The results are perfect so far. It has stuck to all surfaces well. On the metal dash, I painted just like we did with the body using a metal etch then 2k primer and this as a top coat. On the plastic and dash pad, I cleaned well and used a wax/greaser remover then sprayed (can) a adhesion promoter and then top coated with this product. I used a small HVLP gun to do the painting. It is ready to go out of the can, no mixing.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...e-d3f83a2d9880
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  #224  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ5
Brad, here is a link to the paint we were discussing. I was advised to use it on plastic, metals, vinyls and leathers.

I have used it on plastics, my metal dash and vinyl dash pad. The results are perfect so far. It has stuck to all surfaces well. On the metal dash, I painted just like we did with the body using a metal etch then 2k primer and this as a top coat. On the plastic and dash pad, I cleaned well and used a wax/greaser remover then sprayed (can) a adhesion promoter and then top coated with this product. I used a small HVLP gun to do the painting. It is ready to go out of the can, no mixing.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...e-d3f83a2d9880

So they can mix that in any color to match? You had them match your nutmeg, right?

It even says you can spray it on carpet and velour.....wow.
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  #225  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:36 PM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strode182
So they can mix that in any color to match? You had them match your nutmeg, right?

It even says you can spray it on carpet and velour.....wow.


Yep and if they don't have the book of codes, you can look up the code here.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/default.aspx

My place could not find the exact year book and I turned them on to this site. They didn't know about it and were thankful.
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  #226  
Old 12-04-2012, 08:41 AM
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great looking build. Screen idea looks like what I wrote about in JeepJunkie a few years ago. I painted mine black though to help it hide, and used rivets instead of screws (painted them too with a q-tip). For the last several years of the truck living outside, no rust.
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  #227  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:35 AM
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If you go to rockauto-tools/universal parts-exhaust-clamps They have a huge selection of stainless and aluminized butt, flat and lap clamps. All the walker ones are usa made too. My exhaust is stock 2 1/4, but I put a filler pipe in place of the old cat and put a new tailpipe in. Used a mix of lap style and butt style and each one pinched tight. You need to use an impact on it!

Try and get the "walker mega" ones as they have a trapped nut. Some have an exterior nut that you have to hold. Easy for you, but a PITA if your under the jeep at install. ALSO, be sure and position the clamp so that you can remove it with the body on with an impact!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by billyrb
great looking build. Screen idea looks like what I wrote about in JeepJunkie a few years ago. I painted mine black though to help it hide, and used rivets instead of screws (painted them too with a q-tip). For the last several years of the truck living outside, no rust.

I thought you were coming out with a 100% stainless Thorley kit?
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1991 Hunter Green Grand Wagoneer
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Last edited by austinaubinoe : 12-04-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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  #228  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:10 AM
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Thanks, Ryan. I will pull those screens and paint them body color to hide them a little.
Did you sell the BB? They link is now dead....

Austin, I got a message from Streetglide about the bands, and I found the stepped style at Summit and already ordered some. They are the captured nut sytle, and I will use an impact. Thanks.
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  #229  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:57 PM
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I made a little progress lately. I got my valve covers painted with my body gold accent color, and got my plug wires on. I was so impressed with Marc's (Streetglide) wire work I tried to copy what he did, down to the Taylor wires. Thanks, Marc, for the tips.





It's a shame it'll never look this neat & clean again. I've been studying my links to see what vacuum lines exactly I'm going to need, but all this will be covered up with lines everywhere.....



I got my SS lap bands all put on, and the exhaust is done. It's real stiff and solid, I'm happy with it.

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  #230  
Old 12-13-2012, 09:03 PM
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I was a little disappointed in the Bulltear HEI, in that under the cap, there's a cheesy little spring connecting the coil to the distributor. Seems like it could be alot stouter. I don't know why it's so small.

1) The DUI only needs the hot lead, and not even a ground? (I know it needs the full 12v switched w/o the resistor.)

2) Is there any problem running the PCV to the back of the carb like I did instead of the front? It's the same manifold vacuum?

3) I think I have the transmission linkage adjusted right: It moves fully open and closed with the throttle, right?

4) I bought a high torque mini-starter, and they talk about checking the clearance between the ring gear on the flex plate and the starter gear. I can't for the life of me figure out how somebody could do that with everything intact. Anybody have any bad experiences with not enough clearance on those?
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Last edited by Strode : 12-13-2012 at 09:05 PM.
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  #231  
Old 12-14-2012, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strode182

4) I bought a high torque mini-starter, and they talk about checking the clearance between the ring gear on the flex plate and the starter gear. I can't for the life of me figure out how somebody could do that with everything intact. Anybody have any bad experiences with not enough clearance on those?


With the paint, like you do when installing axle gears.. Here is the inspiration:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucG-yh4oiLU

Otherwise, great job on that engine
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  #232  
Old 12-14-2012, 07:09 AM
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Brad
All your work looks really nice...!! Like the numbered labeling on your wires, now I'm gonna have to do mine that way .

I know what you mean about the fine spring under the dist. cap. I also thought it would be built a little heavier. I do like the simplicity of the one hot wire hook-up. Eliminates a lot of clutter under the hood, and my engine fires right up and runs smoothly.

Your PCV valve will be fine running it like you said as long as you have full manifold vacuum.

Your kick-down linkage will be all the way forward when at full throttle. Someone on here can probably explain adjustment better than I can. Pics are worth a thousand words.
Try this link for your kick-down adjustment http://www.ifsja.org/tech/transmission/727adj.html

Basically Loosen the nut on the kick-down slide bar (U-shaped wire). Use a heavy spring or have a friend hold the kickdown rod or kickdown lever on the transmision forward till it stops. Now, move the throttle lever to full throttle and hold it there, as you do so it will pull the slide wire for the kick-down with it to the proper position. Now tighten down the nut on the slide bar, and release the throttle lever and kick-down lever back to there relaxed positions. Now when the throttle lever is wide open, the kick down lever should be fully forward...... Hopefully I explained that right..?
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Last edited by streetglide : 12-14-2012 at 06:18 PM.
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  #233  
Old 12-14-2012, 07:40 AM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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That looks great, Brad. I too like the wire numbering. I should have done that.

I like the colors and how neat everything is done. What a fantastic job.

One thing you might consider is having your front brackets (Alt, A/C, PS) powder coated. I did mine and I think it looks really nice. You could go with a gold or even the purple. It would really set it off. One other thing, is take a little brush and paint the timing marks and the line in the balancer. It makes things much easier to see down the road. Those are just some aesthetic things.

It is nice to get away from the sanding for a while isn't it?


edit: One thing I did notice is the height of your intake/carb. Is that going to be enough room to clear the hood? I don't think my intake sits as high and I could not use a spacer on the carb and clear the hood. I have not test fitted recently but I am thinking I have to trim the hood insulation to get enough clearance. That is with a stock breather so you may be using something else.
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Last edited by CJ5 : 12-14-2012 at 07:47 AM.
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  #234  
Old 12-14-2012, 09:52 AM
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Marty, thanks for that link. I'll be trying that method now. I'm bumping your thread for those who haven't seen it yet.

Marc, thanks for that link. I think I have it right, I'll double check it. I bought a stud for the carb for the trans kick down, and it seems to have the right geometry. We need an update on your progress

Tim, you may be right about the carb spacer. I got it thinking they were a good idea. One of the guys at Spitfire hates them, the other thinks they're good. I thought I needed it to raise the Holley to clear the bigger vacuum port on the manifold, but I notched out the throttle bracket so I now can get a hose under it for the brake line. The spacer can probably go.

The harmonic balancer is new, and has pretty good lines on it. I will mark the timing cover, thanks for that.

The powder coating is a good idea, I'll check into that. I was hoping to get the front accessories all bolted on soon, but I have other stuff to do, and it'd be worthwhile to have a coating that lasts. I painted them, and they're all boogered up already from just being in a box.

Eastwood has a sale on their dynamat right now, $99 a box plus free shipping with this source code: 1102983

Are you using that Thermozite for your hood insulation?
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  #235  
Old 12-14-2012, 10:01 AM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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No, I am not using the thermozite for the hood. I bought the stuff from BJ;s. I think using it would work. The foil side out would probably look at better than just black felt like I will have.

That is a good price. To bad I have all I need now.

If you want to powder in black, I can send you the powder I got from Eastwood. I had a pretty good bit left over.
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  #236  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:50 PM
CJ5 CJ5 is offline
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I just went back and re-read this whole thing. There was a lot I missed the first go around.

You have done a ton of body and fab work. I didn't catch all of that at first. It looks really good. I kinda liked the gold trim on the dash. I think I will use pin stripe material and match to what I do on the outside.

The colors are nice. I will need to discuss with you the steering column painting and assembly. I have yet to do that and I am sure you have some tips.

You have made a lot of progress in a short amount of time.
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  #237  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:32 AM
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Great Job man ! love the Body work
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  #238  
Old 12-19-2012, 11:23 AM
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I just read your whole postagain and thank you for the documentation. You spent almost as much time on this site doing the posting as you did sanding!
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  #239  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:51 PM
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Thanks for the comments guys, I appreciate it.

Marty, I did the paint test on my starter, and I got a good pattern on it. Thanks for the link.

I got one of those heat blankets for the starter, and I also put heat shield on the trans cooler lines.





I also put some heat shield on the gas and power steering lines.




I also marked the timing marks like Tim suggested.



Marc, I redid the trans kickdown adjustment, and it's good now, thanks.
Eugene, how is your's coming? You haven't posted in your thread in awhile. I'm interested in your swap.
And Robert, I'm hoping you'll start a thread soon on yours.
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  #240  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:59 PM
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I wanted a console that would fit my needs. My needs are:

1) I have to be able to rest my elbow on it.
2) I have to have a place to put my 7-11 coffee cup on it.
3) Carry stuff, and have a place for my wife's coffee cup too.

I'm going to be doing the foam/fiberglass thing, so I can paint it like the dash.

I started working out ideas with cardboard. I grabbed a cupholder thing out of an Explorer (I think), and I'll build mine to utilize it for the regular cupholder.





I spent ALOT of time tracing out a cardboard pattern to make the floor contour, then I realized I was wasting my time because the carpet will change everything. So I got the carpet out and put it in temporarily.
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