Dana 44 - New axle seals leaking

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Brynjminjones
    258 I6
    • Jun 11, 2017
    • 475

    Dana 44 - New axle seals leaking

    Last week I replaced the rear wheel/axle shaft bearings in my Dana 44 rear end.

    I used all new Timken parts, with new bearings, retaining rings and seals.
    It went together fine and has gotten rid of a lot of noise I previously had.

    I just got back from my first longer drive since the repair and now it's leaking badly.
    One end of the tube is leaking badly and has covered the whole back side of the tire in fluid.
    The other end is a slower drip but still a definitely a new leak.

    What should I look at first? I don't see how both new seals could be faulty, so I guess I must have done something wrong, but I don't know what!
    1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

    1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
    1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
    1974 Ford F100 390
  • itselliot
    350 Buick
    • Aug 28, 2010
    • 1042

    #2
    assuming that you did a proper job when installing the seals,... the culprit may be that the axle shaft is causing the seal to be damaged ( more likely) or that the axle shaft has excessive wear and is undersized at the seal location.(less likely)
    If the PM's are full,...try e mail!
    [email protected]
    616 four 03 44 0 five
    '78 J-20 401 Q/T not quite stock anymore....Frame off Resto Mod..Super Cab nearing completion. SOMEDAY
    "90 GW 360/727/229/3:31s 2" lift (SOLD in 2015)
    '78 CJ7 Built from Scratch over a 7 year span.

    Comment

    • DarkMonohue
      Shakes hands with danger
      • Jul 01, 2012
      • 1145

      #3
      Any chance the seals got installed backward?

      Could the surface they seal against have been damaged during the operation?
      '85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
      Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
      High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread

      Did you know? Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.

      Comment

      • Brynjminjones
        258 I6
        • Jun 11, 2017
        • 475

        #4
        Right, I think I've found the issue.

        Here goes, I'm ready to embarrass myself... it looks like it was user error

        I've had the shafts back out and it looks like whoever installed them (no names mentioned) didn't do a very good job.

        I stupidly didn't check that the retaining plates were flat, plus it would appear I didn't get the seal properly inserted into the axle tube.
        When I've tightened the four bolts on the plate down, it has unevenly forced the seal into the tube and buckled the metal part of the seal.

        It looks like I'm going to have to cut my new bearings off and start again, as I'm almost certain the seal and plates can't easily be recovered, and definitely not without removing the bearings.

        Frankly, I'm amazed it wasn't leaking worse than it was!

        I think I rushed the job more than I should, as I was using a friend's shop and didn't want to keep him late.
        There's no excusing it though, this has to be one of the biggest screw ups I've managed working on a car yet!

        Axle Bearing Seal - Oops by Brynjaminjones, on Flickr
        1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

        1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
        1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
        1974 Ford F100 390

        Comment

        • Brynjminjones
          258 I6
          • Jun 11, 2017
          • 475

          #5
          Unfortunately I'm back with the same problem as before.

          I've replaced the bearings and the seals (for a second time) and put it all together much more carefully, with new retaining plates this time.
          I topped up the fluid (to the fill hole) and then spent the last few days away towing our pop up camper.

          After our first hour or so of driving I could immediately smell axle oil again, so I checked and it was all over both rear tires.

          I've taken the shafts out again once I got home and the seals are completely undamaged this time.
          It looks to me like it might well be leaking from between the axle shaft itself and the seal. On closer inspection it looks like there might be some pitting on the shaft so I think it's the same problem that Elliot described further up this thread.

          Short of replacing the shafts, what can be done to repair the damaged surface?
          1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

          1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
          1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
          1974 Ford F100 390

          Comment

          • wiley-moeracing
            350 Buick
            • Feb 15, 2010
            • 1430

            #6
            There may be a repair sleeve for the seal surface? It may be better just to purchase new axle shafts.

            Comment

            • J20 project
              304 AMC
              • Dec 27, 2000
              • 2487

              #7
              So when I hear the comment concerning axle oil...it makes me wonder. The 91 44 did not have a inner seal and the bearings run in gear oil instead of being a grease packed bearing?...My 77 flanged 44 had an inner seal. I learned this the hard way.

              J20 project
              BP Drivetrain...........

              Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
              775-537-7918

              https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/

              Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"

              Comment

              • Brynjminjones
                258 I6
                • Jun 11, 2017
                • 475

                #8
                Yeah, this late Dana 44 just runs the outer seals, although I did grease pack the bearings anyway.

                wiley-moeracing, I'd come across those sleeves when doing some searching. Do you know if there is a specific one designed to fit this axle or where to look?

                I would be tempted to get new axle shafts but they're hard to find for any reasonable cost here in the UK.

                Would it be possible to weld in the pitting then machine it down to the correct diameter?
                1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                1974 Ford F100 390

                Comment

                • J20 project
                  304 AMC
                  • Dec 27, 2000
                  • 2487

                  #9
                  A) please don't attempt welding the axle,,not gonna work out..dangerous. How about taking it back apart, getting someone who can read a micrometer, and see if the axles are bad? Screw the speedy sleeve method. A good axle, installed correctly by a competent person will work just like factory. I do axles every week and do not have failures like yours. What is missing here?
                  J20
                  BP Drivetrain...........

                  Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
                  775-537-7918

                  https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/

                  Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"

                  Comment

                  • wiley-moeracing
                    350 Buick
                    • Feb 15, 2010
                    • 1430

                    #10
                    a blocked vent line maybe?

                    Comment

                    • Brynjminjones
                      258 I6
                      • Jun 11, 2017
                      • 475

                      #11
                      Originally posted by J20 project
                      A) please don't attempt welding the axle,,not gonna work out..dangerous. How about taking it back apart, getting someone who can read a micrometer, and see if the axles are bad? Screw the speedy sleeve method. A good axle, installed correctly by a competent person will work just like factory. I do axles every week and do not have failures like yours. What is missing here?
                      J20
                      I'm almost certain that the problem here must be the physical damage to the sealing surface on the axle shaft.
                      I did mess up the install first time around by using bent retaining plates, but second time round it went together perfectly, yet is still leaking.

                      I would love to just throw some new shafts in, but from what I've found so far it will be the best part of $1000 by the time I've got them over to the UK, and I'm not ready to drop that when there might be alternatives!

                      Is there no way of building the sealing surface of the shaft back up?

                      Also, what is the issue with the speedy sleeves? I've never used them but I have read others' success stories.


                      Wiley-moe, I did check the breather and it seems to be clear. I could blow through it with a bit of pressure.
                      1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                      1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                      1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                      1974 Ford F100 390

                      Comment

                      • wiley-moeracing
                        350 Buick
                        • Feb 15, 2010
                        • 1430

                        #12
                        nothing is wrong with a speedy sleeve, not sure of the part number, will take some research.

                        Comment

                        • Brynjminjones
                          258 I6
                          • Jun 11, 2017
                          • 475

                          #13
                          Originally posted by wiley-moeracing
                          nothing is wrong with a speedy sleeve, not sure of the part number, will take some research.
                          Thanks, I'll get digging!
                          1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                          1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                          1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                          1974 Ford F100 390

                          Comment

                          • Brynjminjones
                            258 I6
                            • Jun 11, 2017
                            • 475

                            #14
                            After some research, it looks like the right sleeve will be part number SKF 99187.
                            I found this mentioned on XJ forums, but it looks like the XJ Dana 44 rear uses the exact same seals as a late Grand Wagoneer 44.

                            I think this is the route I'll take, as I still can't find shafts for a decent price over here, and the sleeves are readily available.
                            1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                            1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                            1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                            1974 Ford F100 390

                            Comment

                            • wiley-moeracing
                              350 Buick
                              • Feb 15, 2010
                              • 1430

                              #15
                              it is worth a try.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X