Complete Motor, Transmission and Tcase swap recommendations.

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  • djobe944
    230 Tornado
    • Dec 31, 2002
    • 15

    Complete Motor, Transmission and Tcase swap recommendations.

    Im restoring my 1985 J-10. My goal is to get in it, when i retire, and drive it to Alaska!

    I want to put in an all modern engine, transmission and transfer case. Chevy seems to be the cheapest and most plentiful option.

    What would you suggest or if you have done it what was your experience.

    Im new to the site and look forward to the wealth of information here.
  • rang-a-stang
    Administrator
    • Oct 31, 2016
    • 5509

    #2
    Originally posted by djobe944
    Join Date: Dec 31, 2002
    ...Im new to the site and look forward to the wealth of information here...
    Dang! You are new here!

    bkilby did a hemi and 6 speed auto swap.
    Hi folks. I bought this Cherokee Chief on 1-7-2016 as a project vehicle. The PO had the engine rebuilt, put it in the Jeep and stopped. The trans and tcase were out of the vehicle when I bought it. I decided to pull the engine back out, go through it a little and clean it up (paint). I got to a point that I needed to order a


    His-n-hers woodies did LS swaps in like a weekend
    Long story short...I was building the wife an '89 GW (Woody #1) when a much better candidate (Woody#2) landed in my lap. The plan is to get #1 (his) driveable while #2 (hers) get's an LS swap, paint and all the goodies. Both are blue 89's. EDIT: Some things I will do differently on the second build (His) : -Go with 3.73


    There was another build on here where a member swapped his cab onto a shortened 2000's Ram 2500 Cumins chassis but I can't find the link.

    If you want the cheapest/easiest modern drivetrain, it's going to be a Chevy LS. They are plentiful and the aftermarket support for them is insanely good. I personally would rather do a Hemi and ZF 8 speed from a 2010'ish Ram (my plan in a couple years). I think they are a better combo but have a smaller aftermarket support. I think either of those combos will get you to Alaska and back but neither are going to be cheap.
    Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
    (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
    (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
    79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
    (Cherokee Build Thread)
    11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
    09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
    00 Baby Cherokee

    Comment

    • bufurd
      327 Rambler
      • Apr 13, 2008
      • 584

      #3
      This is gonna date me but..... I'd go with a 455 olds, turbo 400 and a D20 t-case with 3:2something gears if ya ain't loaded, 3:54 if ya are. (I equate better with modern) Reason being is old school simplicity and reliability. I'm sorry (to the ladies) but I feel like a girl when I look under the hood of these new vehicles. Good luck, point is keep it simple would be my advice. I know the D20 comes up on the wrong side for a 85 front, addressable for sure. My 2 cents.
      Current fleet
      Abner-73 He started it all in 1979 (plow truck now)
      Bufurd-69 Fixed up to take Abners place as DD
      Delta-70 Built for fun, 455 Olds, T-18, D-20, 4:10 gears
      Humpty-74 J-20 4BT, NV4500, 30+MPG
      07 JK Wife bought new...
      13 Grand Cherokee Trail Hawk, wifes new ride

      Comment

      • tgreese
        • May 29, 2003
        • 11682

        #4
        Originally posted by rang-a-stang
        If you want the cheapest/easiest modern drivetrain, it's going to be a Chevy LS. ...
        +1. Usually things are popular for a reason. Buy the whole vehicle and take what you need, scrap the rest.
        Tim Reese
        Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
        Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
        Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
        GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
        ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

        Comment

        • cu4whln
          304 AMC
          • May 16, 2008
          • 1703

          #5
          Originally posted by tgreese
          +1. Usually things are popular for a reason. Buy the whole vehicle and take what you need, scrap the rest.

          A major consideration.. wiring and tech support. MOPAR just doesn't provide much of anything. MOPAR auto trans support? Uh, good luck unless its an early trans. The Chevy 4L60e or 4L80e are good solutions - especially since you have a driver side drop t-case already. MAJOR support for the Chevy stuff.

          The LS engines? Dime a dozen, and major aftermarket support. Mounts, ECUs, wiring - all easily available.

          Get a Gen I - IV engine.. and make sure it has a power steering pump. Many don't and it's $$ to add that.. ( ask me how I know.. ). BJs sells a bolt in LS mount kit too
          It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . . https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...s/rolleyes.png

          1977 "401" 'Da Chief
          1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
          1972 J4000
          1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
          2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
          2012 Artic JK 4 door, 2016 JK 2 door

          'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

          Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
          http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

          "Madness" build here:
          http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

          Comment


          • #6
            XJ Cherokee Parts rig about ‘91 to ‘95 vintage for HO 4.0L, auto trans and simplest wiring. AW4 automatics are on a par with 727 and TH400 for longevity and strength. ‘91 YJ speedometer adapter allows a pass through cable for stock speedometer and runs the trans computer too.
            Just running roads I would go with NP242. It does what the NP229 does but without a viscous coupler, yet better than the NP228. Tire size will direct the axle ratios plus final usage.
            Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.

            Comment

            • cu4whln
              304 AMC
              • May 16, 2008
              • 1703

              #7
              What engine/trans is in your truck now?

              If its a 6 cyl, I second the 4.0L recommendation .. That's a SOLID engine with modern fuel injection. Target a 92 to 95 unit. SBEC control.

              The AW4 can also be mated to a 360/401. Its has OD for some fuel econ. Its rated up to 430 ft lbs.
              It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . . https://forums.ifsja.org/core/images...s/rolleyes.png

              1977 "401" 'Da Chief
              1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
              1972 J4000
              1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
              2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
              2012 Artic JK 4 door, 2016 JK 2 door

              'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

              Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
              http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

              "Madness" build here:
              http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280

              Comment


              • #8
                The AW4 fuel economy works if you have 3.31 or lower axles (depends on tire size) matched back to original tire size/axle ratio of the XJ. Usually 26” tires and 3.55 ratio.
                I ran 3.73 with 33” tires on a Renix or stroker 6. I’d probably go 4.10 with HO and 33”. Cam profile depends on whether you are going carb, EFI or LPG. Same with EGR (Renix only) or not.
                Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.

                Comment

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