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  #81  
Old 06-08-2018, 11:36 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
A minor update. Was getting ready to paint the dash and remembered I wanted room for more gauges so I made a pocket next to the instrument panel.





Next some pics of the glove box door.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #82  
Old 06-12-2018, 10:05 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
First crack at the glove box door made from the existing grill.

The frame has these studs. Cut them off and tapped those four spots for screws. Also ground some nut down and glued them into the groove.



Formed some 1/4" ABS for a backing. Had to be thick to hold a hinge screw on each side and to mount the latch, which I never got to.

Semi finished:




Gave up on this since it was too tight in the hole in the dash and was so thick it didn't look like I'd be able to make the hinge work since it would have to move outward quite a bit before it started tilting.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Last edited by SJTD : 06-12-2018 at 10:11 AM.
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  #83  
Old 06-13-2018, 01:39 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
The final version is two layers of 1/8" aluminum. The inner layer holds the flat head screws for the hinges and latch. The outer layer is for show.

I didn't want to trust screws holding in bottom tapped holes less than 1/4" deep if I made it out of one 1/4" thick piece.



Ready to glue together.



Spent a lot of time trying to figger out the hinging. Stare at it for a while and walk away. Waste time making parts that don't work. In the end it was pretty simple.


These are the original hinges with a little reforming.





Looks pretty good.



Bring on the Bondo!
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #84  
Old 06-21-2018, 10:32 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
Got the epoxy on it.




I'm really surprised at how little filler the welds will need around the panel I put in the center.




The welds around the pockets will only get it in a few spots.






Did some filling around the center panel but the stuff was curing too fast. Going to continue in the morning. Left the Bondo outside so it'll get cold overnight.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #85  
Old 06-30-2018, 10:05 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
Finished with the filler around the center panel. The Bondo was to thick, old? so I ordered some 2k spot putty. Much easier to work with.




Not so bad from this angle.




Still need some blocking to smooth out the flat areas.

I know I can get it better above the AC vents but I also know I could spend several hours on it and end up with it not looking this good so I think I'm done.

I think the only way to get it better would be to cast a sanding block out of filler.

I've ordered some base/clear in dark silver (grey metallic?) for it. I'm not going to try and paint something this curvy with a single stage metallic.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Last edited by SJTD : 06-30-2018 at 10:53 PM.
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  #86  
Old 07-01-2018, 05:53 PM
JPSwapMohn's Avatar
JPSwapMohn JPSwapMohn is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 01, 2004
Location: VA, NC, wherever I'm sent..
Posts: 1,440
That is really cool, and undoubtedly took a lot of work.
One question, as i have a 88, but have acquired a 70’s and a 60’s dash and want to transplant: Did you need to move the steering wheel shaft cutout for the later rig? I have read (on here, i think) that the steering wheel shifted a little between the older dash and the newer ones. I don’t have my junk near me right now and have not measured them as of yet.

I am also planning to modify the center area to clean it up and use vents up on the dash instead of the ones running along the bottom in the stock a/c unit.
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88Wag, LT1/4L60E/NP242, F150 fuel cell, discs, Aussie rear, LDS front, 4.10s
95YJ, STaK 300, D44's, SOA, ARB's, 4.56s, Bilsteins, 35" KM2's
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  #87  
Old 07-02-2018, 09:52 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
Your's has the integrated heat/AC controls in the center?

I don't know where the column sits on that version but mine is a little to the left of where the older dash wanted it to be.

Dealt with this quite a while ago but there are some sharpie lines on the seat so I think I did some measuring and the wheel lines up with the center of the seat.

Having the wheel offset from the center of the seat would have bugged me more than it being offset from the instrument panel so I'm pretty sure they all line up now.

To summarize, clearly I hope, the wheel is where it always was in the '84 since the 2 bracing rods behind the dash both fit and the dash was modified to fit this position.

Idunno if I'll use the '84 plastic trim around the column. It seems like it'll fit but it's kinda bulky. I thought about closing up the hole so the earlier trim would work but it's unavailable unless the one Men In Black is making works out but I think the '84 column is bigger diameter. I'll prolly end up making one out of ABS.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #88  
Old 07-03-2018, 07:43 PM
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JPSwapMohn JPSwapMohn is offline
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Join Date: May 01, 2004
Location: VA, NC, wherever I'm sent..
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I just went back through this thread and see that you essentially addressed on page 3 by widening the cut out for the column and used the 84 mount on the older dash. I think that addresses my question and something I will have to consider when i start this process.
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One day I will wake up and realize that my jeep is complete...one day, I just know it.

88Wag, LT1/4L60E/NP242, F150 fuel cell, discs, Aussie rear, LDS front, 4.10s
95YJ, STaK 300, D44's, SOA, ARB's, 4.56s, Bilsteins, 35" KM2's
50 CJ3A
77 J-10, 360/T-18/D20, SOLD
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  #89  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:11 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,913
I always enjoy seeing what you are up to SJTD. Pretty sweet dash there.
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  #90  
Old 10-08-2018, 08:18 PM
243 243 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 08, 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,478
Awesome work and thanks for posting in my build thread, you have executed some great ideas!
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  #91  
Old 10-15-2018, 10:02 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,055
243 Was asking for pichers of how I did the hydroboost so I figgered I's post them here.

I didn't want to use a long spacer on the engine side of the firewall so I used a piece of 1" x 4" tubing. The far side hole is big enough for the spanner to fit to tighten the nut. I've read it's ok to mount it upside down.



With no spacer the pin on the pedal is too close to the firewall. I put 1/4" thick plate on each side of the pedal. The front holes in the plates pick up the original pin hole in the pedal. The left side plate is threaded to accept a bolt since a nut would interfere with the actuating rod. The rear holes take a longer bolt that also pushes on the rod.



In this one you can see a bit of the master's actuating rod. Can also see the spacer between the two plates made from a split piece of 1" tubing that lets the bolt be tightened without squeezing the side plates together.



This one shows the master rod better. There's a spacer under the washer to make up the difference between the bolt and the hole in the rod and also allows the bolt to be tightened without squeezing the rod.



All this because I didn't want to weld on the pedal to move the actuating pin to the back of the pedal. I think it's cast steel not cast iron but I'm not sure and I don't like the idea of such an important weld being in tension. At least a weld done by me.

Also moves the master away from the engine. Might be a problem since I've been thinking about about going to a hydraulic clutch.
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Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Last edited by SJTD : 10-15-2018 at 10:11 PM.
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