Removing heads with manifold attached

[johnsonic]

Hey all!

Anyone ever remove their heads with the exhaust manifold still attached? Looks like it could be done if you unbolt them from the Y pipe.

Thinking the rear manifold bolts would be much easier to hit from outside the truck. Any reason not to?

Thanks!

[joe]

Your back is prolly or at least optimistically in better shape than mine. Bending over a fender and reaching/pulling a cast iron head hurts my back just thinking about it.
Yeah I'm old and adding a cast iron exh manifold to the scenario and I'm starting to tear up. Once you've removed the heavy cast iron intake manifold while bending over the fender you'll have a better clue if pulling the heads with the exh manifold attached is a viable plan.

[johnsonic]

I hear ya Joe - the manifold was a bear the 1st time, now it's the performer so not so bad. I do have a hoist I can use to help w/ the weight if that's the primary concern on the head/manifold attached. Thank you for your response!

[Carnuck]

No headbolts hiding that way?

[johnsonic]

Good call - I see'em now. Won't be able to get them out with the manifold in the way.

Scratch that idea - thanks guys!

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

No headbolts hiding that way?

Nailed it.

[Mikel]

No headbolts hiding that way?

Not if he pulls the block out at the same time

[johnsonic]

Mikel - will be getting there, just don't want to be getting there so soon!

[rang-a-stang]

I found it was easy to get to the rear manifold bolts from underneath with a box end wrench. I don't remember being able to see it but it was fairly easy to get to up there...

[yossarian19]

I'm with rang-a-stang - I think a couple of exhaust manifold bolts maybe one or two on each side came out from underneath.
The heads I didn't think were so bad, probably because they are closer to the fender.
That intake, though... Jeebus. I'm 34 and I definitely felt the strain in my back, it was pretty close to where it'll just lock up on me the next morning. I'm pretty sure next time the intake comes off, aluminum is going back on.

[tgreese]

Not if he pulls the block out at the same time

I laughed. Might as well!

Really, if you are going to pull the heads, the only reason to leave the manifolds attached is that you fear breaking the bolts. Your local machine shop can make quick work of removing any broken bolts, and it's easy for them with the heads off.

Easiest way to lift heads or iron intake manifolds I've found is to use a ladder, a 2x4, and some chain. Stand on one side of the engine compartment, with the ladder on the other, and the 2x4 spanning across. Run the chain from the 2x4 to the part you want to lift, and put the 2x4 on your shoulder. Lift with your legs. You can use your hands to guide the part to rest on the core support or other table. Remove the radiator or protect it with a piece of plywood - if you bump into the radiator, you will punch a hole in it.

[johnsonic]

You hit the nail on the head - was just thinking that any trouble with bolts would be 10x easier with the head AND manifold out. I do see that there are head bolts under the manifold though, so scratch that idea.

Will be pulling engine in a few mos regardless, so will deal with it then.

Thanks guys!

[babywag]

It may seem easier/faster to pull heads in vehicle, but only a little extra work to just yank whole engine. Manifolds can stay attached.
Toss it on a stand and go to town.
Much easier to clean stuff up, lotsa room to work, won?t kill your back, etc.

[johnsonic]

Storytime...

If pulling the engine were an option would definitely do that. My garage is about the size of a postage stamp (well, maybe 18" bigger than my truck on all sides), with a ramp into it - so using a hoist isn't an option. Just going to bolt everything back up so I can move it to a rent-a-bay garage and work on it there when I have a new motor ready.

Reason - I took it on a 1,000 mile trip & developed a bad tick on a motor that already had 20,000 miles on it after rebuild. Pulled the intake to check the lifters, none had any preload - all were right up against the retaining clip. No bent rods, all cam lobes are pretty close to expected height except exhaust on #1, which was 0.008" shy, and the lifter was slightly dished.

The rockers however were pretty worn. Not sure if this is normal, but some of them had ridges on the rockers where the oil slots are on the pivots - has anyone seen this before? Like, just totally scraped out with a raised diagonal line that mirrors the oil slot on the pivot. Confused on how that could happen if the rocker is in constant motion.

Changed the oil and had a ton of metal sticking to the oil plug magnet. Took the oil filter apart and have a bunch of non-magnetic metal particles in there. Uh-oh.

I replaced the rockers and now have preload, but that does not explain the non-ferrous metal in the oil filter. Hoping it's not a bearing, but not sure what else it could be.

Anyway, long story short - probably have a (another) rebuild in my future, this one I will get machined elsewhere, put together myself this time taking care to make sure all oil slots line up / etc & hopefully learn something putting it back together myself. At least I'll know for certain if I go on to rebuild #3 - nobody's fault but mine.

So for now, just going to stitch it together so I can move it out of the garage & get access to my other 360 to start tearing it down. I'll have it back together and fired up this weekend.

If you guys have any thoughts about the above, specifically around the weird rocker thing, would love to hear it. I can take pics of whatever you'd need.

Love this forum - have learned so much through it and the people are what make it great!

-John