Dual CV front Driveshaft for "BIG" FSJ's

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  • Dual CV front Driveshaft for "BIG" FSJ's

    Question...how many "Monster FSJ's" have had this or similar work done or being done???

    I have started to look into this and other financial setbacks in my project (wife won't give up the checkbook ) . I have called my local driveline shop and found out that it would cost me around $950 to have this driveshaft made(using mine for the 1st CV). Now don't think I jumped on this! A good friend of mine had this done out of Pamona, Ca on his Wrangler for $360 from scratch. I was doing my research on all info I could get from the Forum and other extreme 4x4 owners here locally. Having 11" of suspension lift is not a low-dollar build... right Mark...Kenall??? I have also looked into the possibility of a support bearing style 2-piece shaft for $560 installed with custom support mounts. My next step is calling out to other shops out-of-state but are still close enuf to drive to for work to be done. If anybody had a good reliable source and/or good pics, I would like to see a post here...thanks. I'm not rushing into things, I have PLENTY of time before 2002...

    ------------------
    TJ
    78 Wagoneer "River Beast"
    360/TH400/QT
    Dana 44's w/ 3.54's (soon to be 4.88's)
    7" SOA conversion
    4" Skyjacker Softride
    3" Trailmaster Bodylift
    33x12.50's on 15x10's
    (soon 38.5x14.50's on 12's)
    My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/~spazz4life
    "Where there's a hill...there's a way!"

    [This message has been edited by River Beast (edited June 30, 2000).]
    Todd
    www.ttsfabworks.com
  • fulmetal
    258 I6
    • Apr 13, 2000
    • 328

    #2
    OK here it goes, I dropped my lift back down to about 9" after the new shaft was installed. I bought my front shaft from Woods out of Utah for about 380.00 w/ lifetime warranty. All you do is call them send yours back to be repaired or if to mangled build you another rom scratch. The reason went down w/ the lift was I had to limit the down travel w/ strapps figured more articulation was better than lift. That was a double cardan w/standard diff end. Great deal, the draw back is the front shaft is way to short but what to do? let me know if you figure it out

    ------------------
    84 Grand Wag
    360, soa, headers,
    33 bfg,s
    84 Grand Wag<br />360, soa, headers,custom rear shackle flip<br />35 MT\'s,Mobi on board welder,12V air, Winch <br />\"and the to do list grows daily\"

    Comment

    • scotty
      • Jun 12, 2000
      • 6627

      #3
      i dont know about this one,but thought id comment that my front driveshaft doesnt even have a cardigan joint.i made my wheels and tires fit with a body lift and sawzall,rather than a big lift,so my suspension is almost completely stock no vibes,no binding,and LOTS of wheel travel with longest shocks i could find and stock springs!
      what is your front pinion angle?it maybe neccessary to point the pinion directly at the T case and have a driveshaft made the appropriate length with a good CV joint at the top.
      do you allready have a part time kit in your quadra trac? that would help you more than anything-convert it to part time(or swap in something else) and put manual hubs on the front.now your front shaft only spins and vibrates in 4wd. no more 2wd vibes on the stree1!

      scott

      ------------------
      scott
      85 grand wagoneer
      258/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/amc 20
      38x15.5 gumbo mudders
      snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
      3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
      custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd
      scotty
      85 grand wagoneer
      258/t18/d20/10 bolt/14 bolt
      38" TSL SXs
      chopped,bobbed and caged

      http://nightcrawlers4wd.20megsfree.com/index.html\

      http://mytrailrigs4x4.20megsfree.com/photo.html\

      Comment

      • mark
        304 AMC
        • Jun 14, 2000
        • 1934

        #4
        hi tj
        looks like weve got the same problem.i was looking at a j-10 with a springover the other day.he had a custom dana 60 in the front and the pinion was pointed straight up at the t-case output.he claims he didnt have any binding and it worked fine.i have a friend who builds racing rears and hees taking a dana 60 rear that i had here and converting it to a front dana 60.we are running 60 axles but im using the 44 knuckles so i can still run the dodge setup with 15 inch wheels.he started the other nite and its almost complete.in the mean time im going to lower my entire driveline 2 inches ,not just the transfercase but the engine as well.we are building a big ford also and that has 18 inch springs.there is no way to run a front driveshaft in it the way it is now so we are going to stack 2 transfercases together and move the output yoke back 9 inches.this helps the front greatly and in the rear we are going to switch to a 1 pc shaft.ive been told that a driveshaft with 2 cv joints actually is working at a more severe angle than a shaft with one because the shaft is actually shorter.ill keep you posted.

        ------------------
        mark
        79 cherokee chief
        11 in lift 42 in swampers
        (ABOVE THE LAW)
        mark<br />76 cherokee chief<br />chevy 502 t-400 np-205<br />dana 60 front corp 14 bolt rear<br />fiberglass fenders and quarters<br />(ABOVE THE LAW)(AND UNDER CONSTRUCTION)<br /> http://<br />&#91;URL=http://www.fsjworl...91;/URL]<br />

        Comment

        • mark
          304 AMC
          • Jun 14, 2000
          • 1934

          #5
          TJ
          the shaft is so short in the front,how could you possibly run a 2 pc shaft with a center support?wouldnt the angle be even more severe on at least one?

          ------------------
          mark
          79 cherokee chief
          11 in lift 42 in swampers
          (ABOVE THE LAW)
          mark<br />76 cherokee chief<br />chevy 502 t-400 np-205<br />dana 60 front corp 14 bolt rear<br />fiberglass fenders and quarters<br />(ABOVE THE LAW)(AND UNDER CONSTRUCTION)<br /> http://<br />&#91;URL=http://www.fsjworl...91;/URL]<br />

          Comment

          • fulmetal
            258 I6
            • Apr 13, 2000
            • 328

            #6
            hi, I havent got this picture transfer down yet but here is the adress of the pics to view at photo point. Hope this will help in the conversation, just cut and paste on you adress bar to go there http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...7566&a=1372271

            84 Grand Wag<br />360, soa, headers,custom rear shackle flip<br />35 MT\'s,Mobi on board welder,12V air, Winch <br />\"and the to do list grows daily\"

            Comment

            • mark
              304 AMC
              • Jun 14, 2000
              • 1934

              #7
              hey fullmetal
              thats awsome .when i made my crossover i didnt even think of doing it that way.is that all the stock steering linkage?did you buy it or make it?i think tj and i have just a little more height in the front.i know my driveshaft wont spin freely because i tried it.are you running a q-track or is your 4 wheel partime?lots of questions.great pics.

              ------------------
              mark
              79 cherokee chief
              11 in lift 42 in swampers
              (ABOVE THE LAW)
              mark<br />76 cherokee chief<br />chevy 502 t-400 np-205<br />dana 60 front corp 14 bolt rear<br />fiberglass fenders and quarters<br />(ABOVE THE LAW)(AND UNDER CONSTRUCTION)<br /> http://<br />&#91;URL=http://www.fsjworl...91;/URL]<br />

              Comment


              • #8

                now u guys no y i kept the OE springs when i did my SOA

                FM, since u have the NP case with its round bolt pattern, wood it be unconceivable to u to 'rotate' the xcase CCW, as viewed from the rear, one bolt position?? or to lower the rear of the tranny mount? or both?

                also, i dont see the mechanical possiblity of a twin CV joint shaft. what wood hold the 'center section' from 'rubber banding' as it turns at hi revs?




                ------------------
                1966 Super Wagoneer
                'The Predecessor' http://home.earthlink.net/~kenns9/index.html

                Comment

                • fulmetal
                  258 I6
                  • Apr 13, 2000
                  • 328

                  #9
                  All right lets try to answer these. All of the steering components are the stock ones w/ a few mods such as shortening and reinforcing the tie rods. I lowered the tranny about an inch, took of the spacer of the tranny mount and reattached the torque arm. I did not try to rotate the transfer case due to clearance on the cross member. As you can see I had to notch it as it is.
                  I did lower the lift a bit to increase the articullation and so the shaft will not bind on full drop.The opnly thing I am considdering is adding another tie-rod set on the lower mounts for strength. I do have a set of warn hubs installed fort he part- time t/c. Any other Questions let me know, I hope I answered them thx guys
                  84 Grand Wag<br />360, soa, headers,custom rear shackle flip<br />35 MT\'s,Mobi on board welder,12V air, Winch <br />\"and the to do list grows daily\"

                  Comment

                  • mark
                    304 AMC
                    • Jun 14, 2000
                    • 1934

                    #10
                    fm
                    next 100 questions
                    just what year is that rig.is the front diff on the driverside?i didnt think the knuckles on our rigs ever came with flatop knuckles with enough materal to do a crossover setup.did you shim or rotate the front pinion at all?why did you go to a shorter shock?is your rig a daily driver?


                    ------------------
                    mark
                    79 cherokee chief
                    11 in lift 42 in swampers
                    (ABOVE THE LAW)
                    mark<br />76 cherokee chief<br />chevy 502 t-400 np-205<br />dana 60 front corp 14 bolt rear<br />fiberglass fenders and quarters<br />(ABOVE THE LAW)(AND UNDER CONSTRUCTION)<br /> http://<br />&#91;URL=http://www.fsjworl...91;/URL]<br />

                    Comment

                    • Marc_01
                      327 Rambler
                      • May 10, 2000
                      • 694

                      #11
                      Nice rig!

                      I really like that rack on the back, do you have any information on that rack you have?

                      Im sure you have the 360 V8 in your truck, but is your exhuast system stock? I like how your exhuast is ran away from the front drive shaft. I have the dog leg headers on my truck and don't like how they are so close to the frame and drive shaft. Your headers (if they are headers) look like the 3 into 1 style. If they are what brand are they. Any information is appreciated.

                      [This message has been edited by Marc_01 (edited July 02, 2000).]
                      87 GW & it\'s brown

                      Comment

                      • fulmetal
                        258 I6
                        • Apr 13, 2000
                        • 328

                        #12
                        My rig is an 84 Grand Wag, with a few retro parts thrown in for good measure. I like to think I have taken the best of the years and made mine even better. My front diff member is on the left side with vacume actuated diff design. I only wish it was on the other side it would make retro fitting a whole lot easier. I used the knuckells of a chevy d44 because they are trully flat on top, while the pinion anges are not perfect I was able to adjust the camber w/a set of shims to correct the steering. My rig is a daily driver but who can afford it w/ gas prices
                        84 Grand Wag<br />360, soa, headers,custom rear shackle flip<br />35 MT\'s,Mobi on board welder,12V air, Winch <br />\"and the to do list grows daily\"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          WOW!!! What a feedback!!! Thanks to all for their comments... Just got back from Los Angeles and here you guys are just runnin' away with this...Here goes:

                          1. Full Metal: NICE RIG!!! looks like you and Mark have ventured where I am just about to go... I will have to put a bug in your ear every now and then
                          2. Mark: I have been told that the support bearing setup will work... haven't seen it done yet and they haven't seen the rig yet. You have got alot of projects in the works... want mine?!? Just kidding....

                          3.Scotty: No P/T kit as of yet... REALLY like the QT the way she is (will be P/T soon after everything else is done). She came with a CV joint(double Cardin) end at the QT from the factory... also have been informed that reguarless of the angle on the diff to QT there would be no vibes with the dual setup. This would be reasonable in the aspect of not having to rotate the knuckles to correct the steering geometry. I have done some research on the CV joint setup... 30 Degrees is the max working angle and I believe I am over that as she sits. Also I heard it's not good to have a "direct" angle on either end because U-joints are made to run at angles.

                          4:KENALL: You were right!!!! this can be trying on the pocketbook and on the brain. I don't know what my local driveline shop has in mind... I see what you are saying about the rubber band affect.... maybe they add a support bearing on that setup,too.

                          I have alot of research to dig up on this topic and will definitely let you all know what comes of it.... I really appreciate all the posts... makes me think more and a little clearere in alot of areas...

                          Mark... I will E-mail you about those ladder bars and other stuff...

                          Thanks again...

                          ------------------
                          TJ
                          78 Wagoneer "River Beast"
                          360/TH400/QT
                          Dana 44's w/ 3.54's (soon to be 4.88's)
                          7" SOA conversion
                          4" Skyjacker Softride
                          3" Trailmaster Bodylift
                          33x12.50's on 15x10's
                          (soon 38.5x14.50's on 12's)
                          My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/~spazz4life
                          "Where there's a hill...there's a way!"
                          Todd
                          www.ttsfabworks.com

                          Comment

                          • mark
                            304 AMC
                            • Jun 14, 2000
                            • 1934

                            #14
                            HI TJ
                            i had a horrible noise in the rear after i added another 3 in block.it was a chattering or ratcheting noise that i still cant explain on acceleration.its been there since i put the 60 in the rear(its got a posi and i thought it was that)but after the rear was up on 7 in of blocks it was horrible.i used to run ladder bars but was hoping not to this time.i put them back on (this time upside down for more clearance)and the noise went away except on heavy acceleration.i can live with that for now because i need it to get to work everyday.my buddy is building me a dana60 front and its almost complete.hees making it from a dana60 rear believe it or not.i hope to have pics soon of that.the end have to be cut off anyway so were swapping the ends with a dana44 so i can still run 15 inch wheels.soon as the digital camera comes back to work ill take some pics of everything.
                            later
                            mark


                            ------------------
                            mark
                            79 cherokee chief
                            11 in lift 42 in swampers
                            (ABOVE THE LAW)
                            mark<br />76 cherokee chief<br />chevy 502 t-400 np-205<br />dana 60 front corp 14 bolt rear<br />fiberglass fenders and quarters<br />(ABOVE THE LAW)(AND UNDER CONSTRUCTION)<br /> http://<br />&#91;URL=http://www.fsjworl...91;/URL]<br />

                            Comment

                            • fulmetal
                              258 I6
                              • Apr 13, 2000
                              • 328

                              #15
                              whe I started to mess w/ the rear as far as lift the rear shaft is not nearly as forgivving as the front because of the cardan joint in the front. mine shuddered also, I then turned the 1" block around to point the drive angle back down and the noise went away. good luck
                              84 Grand Wag<br />360, soa, headers,custom rear shackle flip<br />35 MT\'s,Mobi on board welder,12V air, Winch <br />\"and the to do list grows daily\"

                              Comment

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