Ok, I know river beast did this, questions I have is, how much does it move the axle, other mods? drive shaft, fender trim, e-brake lines?
burb springs on the rear?
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burb springs on the rear?
83 Cherokee 4dr WT(axles) 4" lift, 351w, nv3550, NP208, installing soon
65 Corvair Corsa Convertible, 4 speed, 140 quad carb engine
71 F-250 Camper Special (in rewire stage)
HE guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life.Tags: None
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Originally posted by ZormOk, I know river beast did this, questions I have is, how much does it move the axle, other mods? drive shaft, fender trim, e-brake lines?
If you are planning this without SOA... you will be removing the OEM rear hanger and relocating it rearward.
Check out the pics in my gallery at www.fsjworld.comTodd
www.ttsfabworks.com
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The spring pin difference on mine was about 6" back.
It did not move it quite that far back but close to it.
I have not messed with my EBrake cables, I do not have much room to play with anymore down under there.
New drive shaft, but I went to 1410 yokes so that was needed anyway.2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Kewl, I am thinking about doing this without a SOA, also thinking about putting some glass rear flares on by removing the rearward part of the wheel well but leaving the front end alone. Since I have a 4"lift already, would I need to add or remove anything using the burb springs, oh yea, what year burbs??83 Cherokee 4dr WT(axles) 4" lift, 351w, nv3550, NP208, installing soon
65 Corvair Corsa Convertible, 4 speed, 140 quad carb engine
71 F-250 Camper Special (in rewire stage)
HE guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life.
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Hope this is not too off the topic and dont want to hijack, but is there anyone that has done this without moveing the axle back? I kinda like the idea of the longer and better springs, but I still want my tires centered in the wheel wells and dont want to cut them. How hard were the hangers to fab?79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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jeepsandguns, i did this without moving the axle back but i relocated both hangers and i also have a jtruck. but if you move both hangers you might fit them in there. would wags have any issues with relocating the front hangers? there are also prefabbed hangers there. there is a post i think from brutus where he bought his hangers from so search on here for that. there are many places that prefab hangers if you search long enough on here youll find them.P.J
Stupidity rules at all times! Famous last words "Hey, watch this" Its 5:00 Somewhere. 1983 J10 In process: 360 ci install
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"Brutus" '74 J10 360/T18/D20/Front D60 Pro Rock & ARB/2" shave, ARB, 15 bolt FF Rear/ 4.56 Gears/38.5 x 16 TSL
Current Jeep Status:Under The Knife
Current Homepage Status: RUNNING
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Originally posted by ZormKewl, I am thinking about doing this without a SOA, also thinking about putting some glass rear flares on by removing the rearward part of the wheel well but leaving the front end alone. Since I have a 4"lift already, would I need to add or remove anything using the burb springs, oh yea, what year burbs??
Depending on your tire size, you may have to clearance the inner wells for full articulation, I patched in and moved the inner well back to match my flares when I did this.
Here is a pic of stock springs in stock location...
Here is a pic with the burb springs in and overloads removed... note the arch difference....
Here is the flare attached and inner well clearance...this was ALOT of work...... sorry no better shots of the inner well to show....
Last edited by River Beast; 11-15-2006, 07:30 PM.Todd
www.ttsfabworks.com
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Zorm,
Like RB above I used about the same method.
IIRC (it's probably in the link) my springs were labeled 199something-2WD-PU, but same deal, overload was removed and it was still a decent amount I had to deal with up front.
Where I changed was removing all the inner wheel well (mines a chopo-hacko-rusto rig).
It's sort of hard to explain but I did take a bunch of pic's.
They are in that link in my sig, the "It's Time" one.
IIRC the rear starts on about page 3, although it does come back later when I needed to level out the front, maybe around page 5-6.2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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These "burb springs" from such and such vehicles....I'm assuming these are the 63" Chevy/GM springs everyone talks about? I think they're all referring to the same springs. Most 1/2 ton Chevy/GMC from late 1980's up have the 63" rear springs. Just check for a 4 leaf pack, 3 leafs with a straight fourth leaf on bottom (overload spring) that measure 63" from eye to eye. Some of these same trucks came with 56" springs that look the same, so measure carefully.-Will
'86 Wagoneer 360/727/Stak 3 speed/HP60/FF14/welded 4.10's/~3" Front Springs/Chevy 63's/42's/hummer beadlocks/topless/8 point cage/half doors
Originally posted by rockjeep44After this weekend chicks are gonna need suspenders to keep their panties up when I roll in
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IIRC the 63" spring will only be on 1/2 tons after the 1988 body style change. most half tons had 52" before that and 56" on the "heavy halfs".
So look for 88-up donors and be sure to measure as transition years are wierd combos of parts sometimes.Brad W.
1979 wag "Nightmare"
**project shelved indefinetly**
m715 ex-firetruck
**project shelved**
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 "Project Juggernaut"
24v-CTD/NV-4500/quad-cab/4x4
4" straightpipe, rollin on beadlocked 37's.
Big as a freight train, as loud as one too.
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I swapped some in from a late 88's burb when I did the SOA on my 79 Chief. I dont remember if it was 1/2 or 3/4 ton. I do know that it was 2WD with a 454. I removed the bottom over-load leaf and was able to bring the rear up level with the front with the built-in adjustment from Todd's kit. These springs moved my rear axle forward about 1/2"...
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Originally posted by Dmntxn77I swapped some in from a late 88's burb when I did the SOA on my 79 Chief. I dont remember if it was 1/2 or 3/4 ton. I do know that it was 2WD with a 454. I removed the bottom over-load leaf and was able to bring the rear up level with the front with the built-in adjustment from Todd's kit. These springs moved my rear axle forward about 1/2"...
You installed longer springs (56" vs 63"), with a spring pin location that is further back, yet it moved your axle forward?
I'm a bit confused how this could even happen
Or am I reading your post wrong?2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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I dunno either... Maybe not all burb springs are longer like Will said... In fact, the burb was one that my father-in-law had just for the engine, but still needed to be able to roll it around his property. So, I swapped my Chief springs back into the burb, and they fit fine too... This burb's springs were just a hair longer, and the pin seemed to be in exactly the same place before I installed them. Once I dropped the weight of the Chief on them, the axle located about 1/2" forward of where it was before the shackle flip with factory springs. I probably should have swapped the leafs around to move the axle back instead of forward, but it worked out good with my factory rear driveshaft, and I did not want to take a chance of streaching it out too far.
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