Alright I need some answers about this ammeter bypass thing please. Why and how do I bypass the ammeter in my 76 waggy. The ammeter in my rig works good and I actually prefer it over a volt meter because I can tell how much my alt is actually working. But I keep hearing bypass your ammeter ASAP. So whats the deal why do I need to bypass it. Also how do I bypass it? I really would like to keep it working if possible.
Ammeter Bypass
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if i remember right since the amperage is going through the meter if any connection gets loose---and they do it has a habit of melting down frying wires and sometimes taking the whole jeep with it--- just disconnect the two leads and solder them together
big alternators and loose connections ---very bad combomac
its a jeep thing i dont understand either
69 m715
87 gw
73 cj5
94 yj
69 j 3000-- dennis got it
81 cj7
66 j truck
78 cherokee cheif
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I didn't bypass mine. I, like you mentioned, like seeing witch way the current is flowing or if the alt is doing its job and keeping the batt voltage level so the current flow is 0.
There is a write up to replace the amp meter with a disassembled volt meter and it turned out really well. its in the archived i believe.
I could see it being a problem if you had a high resistance connection to the studs across the shunt of the meter. Also if one had a problem and was doing lots of cranking and finally got her to fire there would be lots of charging current going thu the meter. That could get pretty hot. And as mentioned above Iv read some stories about rigs catching on fire. Keeping the connections clean of dirt and corrosion is the best defense. I scrubbed mine up so all surfaces were nice and shiny to provide the lowest resistance connection possible.Terry
1970 Kaiser Wagoneer -SOLD (currently getting built by new owner)
Build thread-http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=103447
1979 Cherokee Chief WT 360. SOLD
1977 Cherokee Chief WT Sport 401. SOLD
1975 International Scout II (My DD)
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Originally posted by asphaltrockdwellerSo is it just those crappy little speed nuts that come loose?
If so.................... Why not just install locking nuts instead, and problem fixed?
I am with the OP, I like seeing what way my current is flowing.
loose are defiantly no good but having dirty connections is going to generate heat for sure.Terry
1970 Kaiser Wagoneer -SOLD (currently getting built by new owner)
Build thread-http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=103447
1979 Cherokee Chief WT 360. SOLD
1977 Cherokee Chief WT Sport 401. SOLD
1975 International Scout II (My DD)
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The main issue is that the ammeter is getting old: 30 to 24 year old for most of those riggs, most parts are designed to survive past the warranty period... Remember that all the current is going thru that device... so 30 amps on charge .... after a while the device will fail. You crank.. the engine start.... then dies..... Some FSJ did not even come with fusible links.... so this is preventive..... the easy way is to connect both wires to the same post on the ammeter.... make sure that you disconnect the battery before playing w the wires. the nicer way is to add a big fuse called a ANL fuse... at any marine shop.
for more details
I have read most of the trreads pertaining to the pypass, and finally decided to do it to my own Jeep. I know that many of you have simply connected the wires up under the dash, onto one post of the ammeter. While this does accomplish the bypass, I was not willing to have 12 feet of wire between my alternator and the battery. IMichel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.
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To the Collective: I have decided once and for all to put to rest all of the threads on ammeter bypasses and alternator protection circuits. I prefer to keep that ammeter insturment in the dash, to upgrade it, to upgrade the wiring to and from and then to protect said investments for a lifetime of no longer thinking aboutJoe Guilbeau<br />1983 Cherokee Laredo WT (SJ-17), 360/229/727/D44/D60 4.10 Gearing, 8-lug hubs, Edelbrock Performer w/EGR Intake, Mallory Unilite Series 47 Photo-Optic Infrared Trigger Vacuum Distributor, Mallory Surge Protector, Mallory Promaster Coil, Holley Pro-Jection TBI 502-Analog, FlowKooler High Output Water Pump, Staggered 4-Core Custom Industrial Radiator, HD Fan Clutch, Dual Electric Fans, CS130 Delco 105-Amp Alternator, Oil Bypass Mods at Rear of Block and Distributor Oiling, Superlift 4\" Suspension, Rancho RS5000\'s, Hi-Tech 31\" Re-Treads, Aero 33 Gal Tank w/Skid Plate, Custom Rear \"Longhorn\" Bumper
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Originally posted by letankThe main issue is that the ammeter is getting old: 30 to 24 year old for most of those riggs, most parts are designed to survive past the warranty period... Remember that all the current is going thru that device... so 30 amps on charge .... after a while the device will fail. You crank.. the engine start.... then dies..... Some FSJ did not even come with fusible links.... so this is preventive..... the easy way is to connect both wires to the same post on the ammeter.... make sure that you disconnect the battery before playing w the wires. the nicer way is to add a big fuse called a ANL fuse... at any marine shop.
for more details
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/archi...p/t-32823.htmlNew Full Size Jeep Nut
I'm just a washed up old has been, Army guy.
My opinions are outdated... After all, what have I done lately? I used to be somebody "A SOLDIER!"
04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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Originally posted by vintagetrksMine is old. I just wonder why I'm not hearing about getting a new ammeter from BJ's which is what I think I'm going to do. I really like the ammeter so if it's just an age thing I think I'll get the new one from BJ's and clean up my connections real good. That should make my ammeter worry free would'nt ya say?
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Originally posted by ricdiculousis the ammeter the gauge that powers the rest of the cluster? i forget.New Full Size Jeep Nut
I'm just a washed up old has been, Army guy.
My opinions are outdated... After all, what have I done lately? I used to be somebody "A SOLDIER!"
04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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Originally posted by vintagetrksNot as far as I know. On my 76 there is one large cluster of wires that plugs into a special plug that I believe powers the guges with the exception of the ammeter. I'm pretty sure the ammeter is seperate from the rest of the guages and gets it's power from the alt.
pretty sure it was the ammeter. and i guess maybe the whole thing pulls power from the alt? not sure, but i can look in my shop book.
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Originally posted by ricdiculousi know on my '84 the power comes into the cluster through one particular gauge and if it goes, every gauge on the cluster goes. i know because when i got the jeep, the cluster wasn't working and this was the reason.
pretty sure it was the ammeter. and i guess maybe the whole thing pulls power from the alt? not sure, but i can look in my shop book.New Full Size Jeep Nut
I'm just a washed up old has been, Army guy.
My opinions are outdated... After all, what have I done lately? I used to be somebody "A SOLDIER!"
04 Jeep Wrangler "Lil Ninja" 32's 2in lift swaybar disconnects
90 Grand Wagoneer "Big Mama"
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i know on my '84 the power comes into the cluster through one particular gauge and if it goes,
it's the temp guage. has the volt regulator in it. powers the fuel and oil guage.
i think the ammeter scare is largely overrated. i like them. i've yet to see a fsj that had symptoms of heat around the amp guage.
i leave em hooked up,but make sure the connections are clean and tight.Originally posted by HankrodRistows right.................again,
Originally posted by Fasts79Chief... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.
Originally posted by Fasts79ChiefI LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!
It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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I forget the details but the power to some other accessories goes through the amp gauge. That power line has nothing to do with the rest of the instrument cluster. I had never seen one that was burnt until I pulled the cluster out of the Cherokee 401 donor 2 weeks ago. A lot of the wiring under the hood had insulation melted off of it. This can be caused by a variety of things especially adding on high wattage lights and sound systems if they use power from that feed. You can also move one lug to the other post if you really want to bypass it. The circuit board is burnt and maybe some leads too. The brown at the bottom is from heat. The front of the gauge does not look burnt but is loose and flopping around in the cluster. I don't think this is common enough event to warrant bypassing the gauge but it would be ugly to have a dash fire from this. It may not be a bad idea to at least inspect the connections for peace of mind.
Last edited by fulsizjeep; 09-19-2009, 08:02 AM.Flint
Ran when parked.
http://jubileejeeps.org/quadratrac
88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s with a few Evil Twin & TT's Fabworks mods
76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
http://eviltwinfab.com http://www.ttsfabworks.com
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heres a writeup on the bypass with pics
Here is a write-up I did on the bypass with pics
Well, I did the Ammeter bypass today...took about 40 minutes...cost about $28 bucks (I went for the Heavy duty 100 amp fuse). I did this with pics just b/c I had a camera available. Items: 100 amp self tripping/reset (like in your house) waterproof fuse-$19-Autozone (use a 100 Amp fuse for a mostly stock electrical system-1977 Cherokee Chief S, 401 mildly built, thorley headers, Magnaflow muffler with dual out exhaust, BJ's 4" offroad lift, 33X12.5R15 Goodyear Wrangler MTRk's, Front discos, offroad bumper and warn winch, Bumper hi-lift jack mount, KC offroad lights
-04 Rubicon, 4" Rubicon Express SA lift. 33" MTR's, Superwinch, misc. armor.
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