Frame Off J10

[Artisan]

PS Exhaust Working...

__Of everything I have done I am most concerned w/ this area. Where the exhaust passes by the front double cardan and TC. It's really tight so I have to strap things so as not to move, thus why the flex joints in the exhaust. Here is what I have so far. The paint is drying on the x member then it will go up and I can move on to wrapping the exhaust section aft of where I have already done it. There is a clamp there so it will be a real chore to wrap it and make it look presentable as well.

__The wrap is rated at 2000* and you put the shiny side Out. Adding to it I wrapped that w/ a 325* rated foil tape in an attempt at making the wrap last longer and survive water / pressure washing easier.

__The access to the custom ubolts to install and remove is via dropping the X-Member.

__Who says this will not work. I want to here opinions... Am I going to cook my TC? Have you seen pipes closer and perhaps a worse job and it all worked fine? I would love to get some comments. Were navigating thru uncharted waters here, dam the torpedos, full speed ahead.








Here is the heat wrap material I chose. It comes in 36 x 60 and there is the foil tape as well. One side of the wrap is white. It appears to be some
substancial material...we shall hope.

[red mistress]

Exhausting

This is how close my exhaust came between gas tank and the rear shackles.

I haven't blow up yet.

I'm tired of those supertrapps, can adjust the throat--iness but still too loud. Gotta redo the whole system. And thinking about all of those hours spent making the system one continious piece of 8' tubing with no joints..... story is ....ain't but one way to find out on custom stuff.
"Just do it"

[Artisan]

Man...your vechicles are THE BOMB my friend...THANK YOU for the pics it really makes me feel a little more comfortable.

BUT SOME HOWEVER, if anyone is reading this mind you THESE ARE NOT FLAMABLE MATERIALS. Case and point....

My Ford F-250 Supercab has a set of KILLER headers and cat backs and the air horns in the intake tubes have been snipped. I was pulling my camper and I am ruthless on the engine, I want to get to where I am going. Anyways I am pulling a grade and all of a sudden a UPS truck pulls next to me and the guy starts going Bezerk. I look at my PS rear view and see smoke!!! OMG! My new trailer, the wife is w/ me...As were stopping I am giving directives to the wife as to what to do so we can split the camper and the truck and hopefully only one will burn. I see that the SPARE TIRE IS IN FLAMES, hanging under the truck. The exhaust was 2" away from he tire and it torched it up. THANK GOD I had a fire extinguisher... It was freaking SCARY, THE SPARE TIRE IS RIGHT NEXT TO THE FUEL TANK!!!!!!!!!!! H E L L O !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was a mnajor pucker factor...

[Elliott]

Sir Elliott,

I have a couple of links here w/ some sound clips. Now remember that I am installing exhaust cut outs so I can have loud when I want it. This is one reason why I went w/ this HP-2 x 18" long 409S unit. It isn't radical, I am hoping no drone at speed and besides, almost all the exhaust piping is 409 Stainless and I could get these in that flavor too so.......

For the record, 409 Stainless is a poor mans S.S. Not much Chromium in it and it will probably rust if I do not paint or coat it. I have been successful welding it w/ STEELMIX gas (86% Argon x 14% Co2 ) and a SS flavor of MIG wire (3xxx) that HARRIS Co, recommended for me..., using a lil Miller 130XP x .30 Wire,

CLICK HERE FOR A COUPLE OF CLIPS

Here is a YOUTUBE CLIP ( a 502, so it is 20% bigger)

(Elliot were getting close to needing you my friend! Pray my phone rings w/ lots of job$!)

Hmmm, was considering cut outs too Maybe I should be saving this new Dodge MC I picked up to go with the new HB's I have.... I can rotate the HB just like Dodge sent 'em out. I have 304 stainless mounts too if that trips your trigger but you might want to shape it a lil at your end to completely match your aluminum firewall block for the cleanest look.

[Artisan]

DS DT Custom Exhaust CHECK!

__Today I drove down to Embee Performance to pick up my stripped and re-coated custum DS header. Embee is great, you can send them your pipes and they will coat them, and you mufflers if you want.
__All my exhaust is now buttoned up all the way back to the X-Pipe. It will be fun to play w/ the electric exhaust cut outs that I will cut into the pipe(s) you see next to the mufflers. The mufflers will go clear out the back, the exhasut cut outs will turn down.

[HARDCORE pacer]

here are some pics of the clearance between my exhaust pipes and 208 t-case which are abot an 1" 1/2

[Artisan]

Thanx for the pics Hardcore Pacer. Yep, that is a comfortable distant. I am closer. Oh well, maybe an oil cooler is in the cards for my TC ehh? Ha! Actually it "could" be a viable solution, don't wanna do it though...

[Greg Taylor]

I'll be honest, I think you might be worrying too much about the heat issue by the t-case. It is naturally going to be "warm" from all the guts rotating inside of it and the exhaust by it "may" heat it up a tad bit more.

Have you considered getting one of the high-heat stick on shields for a starter, and cut it to fit the t-case nicely and then stick that to the t-case?

[Artisan]

Greg that is exactly the kind of words I want to here and it makes me feel much better. I actually like your stick on heat shield idea. Have you purchased it in the past form anyone specific and do you have a link?
THANX!

I'll be honest, I think you might be worrying too much about the heat issue by the t-case. It is naturally going to be "warm" from all the guts rotating inside of it and the exhaust by it "may" heat it up a tad bit more.

Have you considered getting one of the high-heat stick on shields for a starter, and cut it to fit the t-case nicely and then stick that to the t-case?

[Greg Taylor]

Have you purchased it in the past form anyone specific and do you have a link?
THANX!

I have never bought it personally. I have used the stick-on wiring wrap before.

Here's a link to the "Starter Shields" on Summit Racing's website ...

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...20shield&dds=1 ... most are clamp or velco attach.

Here's one that is self-adhesive ... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010462/

[j10jim]

artisan,

This is a great build! I am in Ventura County so at some point I would like to come out and check out your truck. You are doing exactly want I want to do some day.

I have a cage in my J10. The front A pillar bars go down thru the dash. Also the front of the halo hoop goes into the 'brow'. I can shoot you some pics if necessary.

I look forward to seeing more pics on this!

Jim

[Artisan]

Hey Jim,

Yea Sure, Come on down. Shoot me a PM, this weekend would work... There have been a couple of guys that have stopped in and a couple of guys that scoffed at my insistence in getting your personal information before I invite you to my home...needless to say when they didn't reply w/ my PM'd requests that was the end of it...

I considered going into the brow w/ the cage. After much ado I decided it would act as a lever and perhaps be more detrimental than functional. Also, although I am FAR FROM a design pro I am trying to think about crumple / crush zones and the brow would fold down in a bad roll and help to keep debris from poking inside the cab. Kinda like Mercedes hoods are designed to do the same, I do believe. Since I am stepping out of the box on the cage design as it is (removable) I am opting for a different route. I do not think I have posted up pics of the cage yet... It is pretty much done, now it lays disassembled till next week and I will refit it back in and make POSATIVE I have no disassembly/assembly issues before I take it all down for the last time and go to paint.

Here is a sneek peek...


As you see I designed a flange system for the removable cage. Boy, when it is all together the truck is a completly differnt beast. I mean anywhere you take a dead blow hammer and hit the cage you can tell it is SOLID. I am betting my life that 8- 5/16" x 1" long Grage 8 bolts will not shear... Also remember as I have stated in the past. This truck is NOT a rock crawing race truck. More of a VERY CAPABLE daily driver and tow rig for another J-truck that WILL be all nasty and stripped and rock crawling, fire breating beast, someday...............

[Artisan]

Bump Stops Rear Working...

Anyone have any input, yea or nay on this kind of a bumpstop design? I added a 4" spring lift PLUS there is about .75" raised due to the 10* shim so I am thinking about an extended bump stop welded to the axle right under the OE bump stop rubber and call it good. Any other ideas?
I did look into something hung from the top U-Bolt plate but I am just not liking that idea, although clever it is... Here is a pic I found on the web where a guy made a bump stop from the top UBOLT plate. If I were to do this I would have to make it hand DOWN and not up...


Here is what I am thinking about doing. Just a simple box welded to the axle at the right angle. Any comments?

[Artisan]

Rock Rails CHECK!

Man...I pity any rock that wants a piece of these! I really cringed at the thought of the drain holes but since I made these to hold some air I better make some drains. If there a PITA and hang up I will ditchem... The air -ports are aligned w/ the frame cross-member just aft of the cab so if I want I can tie the 2 tanks together w/ a hose run inside the cross - member. I will add "t's" for inlets and outlets...

I NEED A PAINTER! Any FSJ Painters out there close? I am NOT asking for free!

[cable97526]

I can definatly lay the paint with the best of them but that's a long way to go for that. If you could get them up here I would gladly do it at NO Charge just to help a fellow member.