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Old 04-07-2011, 05:44 PM
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No power to the radio

Thought this might have been covered previously but I cant find a thread dealing with this issue. My 89 GW is not getting power to the radio. The radio fuse is good and all the fuses in the fuse box are good. The radio that was in before had stopped working right before I bought the waggy but the speakers would beep everytime I turned the waggy on, also the new radio makes some noise when I hook the battery back up after doing any electrical work. The new radio is wired correctly and I am not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Medic
... the new radio makes some noise when I hook the battery back up after doing any electrical work.

Have you confirmed you're not getting power to the radio by measuring for voltage with a meter? If its "making noise" it must have power.

Could be you do have power but you really have an audio problem. Suggestions would be 1) confirm the speaker wiring is correct and 2) confirm the internal amp isn't blown.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2011, 06:00 PM
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I was thinking no power based on the fact that the display wont even light up.
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Tramp - 85 CJ-7 Renegade FI 258/T5/D300, D30 w/ARB Air Locker, AMC 20 w/Posi Unit, 33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT-R's, Hella E-Code lights, VIAIR OBA System, Warn 8000lb Winch
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:33 PM
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Without knowing details, like what sort of noises you're hearing, it's hard to be of specific help. But if you hear a noise from the radio when you connect the battery then the logical assumption is that it has power, but there's a problem with the radio itself.

Anyway, using a voltmeter is step one to troubleshoot any electrical problem. Check for 12V at the fuse block and again at the plug at the radio end.
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88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:37 PM
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Forgot to mention: Maybe you do have 12V but the radio is not grounded properly. You need either a chassis ground directly from the radio case to chassis ground through nuts & bolts, or a ground return wire to chassis ground depending on the radio design.
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88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:46 AM
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Yep, especially if it's a modern stereo, which I'm presuming given the "beep" when the key is turned. You really, really need to run its own dedicated main power and ground wires. Back in the day factory radios cranked out an amazing 4-7 watts of "real" power. Modern after market stuff will crank out a good solid 14-22 or so watts of actual clean usable power; 44-50 or so watts of teeth gritting, ear splitting, speaker blowing distortion that they falsely claim on the faceplate somewhere as RMS or total or whatever power. Point being that modern stereos eat up a lot more juice than the old dial radios of yesteryear.

Anyways, the tiny little 20-30 year old power and ground wires it may be using simply aren't enough to power modern stereos and who knows how reliable they may or may not be in these old rigs.

Run a nice 12 ga. ground wire from the stereo (either ground wire or case) to a good solid bare shiny metal spot somewhere up under the dash, as short as convenience and service will allow. For power, run a fused 12 ga. lead straight from the battery w/ 30 amp fuse (your stereo should have it's own probably 10-15 amp inline or built-in) up to the main power of the stereo. Solder if you have a good iron and are handy w/ it, and use star washers for any screw connections like the ground.

Switched ignition source typically either works or it doesn't, I ran mine into the spot on the fuse box marked "radio."

You'll find w/ good power and ground leads your stereo won't dim w/ every drum beat, it's clearer, fuller, won't take near as much volume to be heard (which can introduce distortion which is unpleasant and can blow speakers) and is generally a whole lot more pleasant to be around. From there make sure your speaker connections are good and not shorting out on any nearby metal.
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Last edited by rreed : 04-08-2011 at 11:49 AM.
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