Help! Need to get home!

[IslanderOffRoad]

Drove my jeep to a friends tonight, then went out. On the way back to his house, it stalled at a couple lights, and then about 2 blocks from his house started to buck and die, wouldnt shift out of 2nd...

popped the hood, oil seems a bit watery, coolant overflow tank is at its "normal" level, and the radiator had coolant when i opened it. felt like overheating, but I'm not 100% sure.

As I coasted in front of his house the power brakes went out as well.

I've gotta get home... any advice on what to do?

[malodin]

sounds kinda like a spark issue to me. especialy the bucking and not shifting out of 2nd. if there is water in the oil it would be a (chocolate) milkshake color.

[IslanderOffRoad]

spark issue... i was thinking that myself.

the lights liked to dim when i wasnt on the gas... i wonder if thats it.

[Don S]

..
IslanderOffRoad;

.. By watery I hope you meant thin. When the engine dies there is no vacuum and the vacuum assisted power brakes no longer will have power. The problem may be a fuel delivery issue like vapor lock.

Vapor Lock Quick Check List

Is the engine properly tuned and running a near normal temperature?

Is the fuel a winter/high altitude grade with low boiling (vaporization) point?

Is the fuel tank properly vented? Check the fuel cap or carbon canister.

Is the exhaust system heating the fuel tank or fuel lines?

Is the sock type filter in the tank getting stopped up intermittently?

Are the fuel lines and inline filters free flowing?

Have the fuel lines got rotten or rusty and clogged up or leaking air in?

Have the fuel lines been insulated?

Is the fuel pump output the correct volume and pressure?

Is the fuel pump electric so it can pump fuel with the engine not turning?

Is the fuel return line still in operation?

Is the heat riser valve in the exhaust pipe working correctly?

Is the manifold hot air intake working correctly?

Is the fresh/cool air intake hose fastened to the air cleaner?

Is a thick insulator gasket under the carburetor to stop boil over?

Is the carburetor float correctly installed and the level properly set?

Is an air dam installed to increase air pressure at the radiator?

An electric fuel pump does not always eliminate vapor locking!

Vibrations of the fuel lines could contribute to vapor lock problems.

As altitude is gained vapor lock problems increase.

If you think the engine has just died due to Vapor Lock and it is in a safe place do the following while it?s still hot :

Turn off the ignition, put the transmission in park and set the emergency brake. Check under the hood for coolant leaks. Pull off the air cleaner and look for fuel leaks. Check that the position of the choke is fully open. Look down into the front barrels of the carburetor and pull the throttle linkage open four times. If you see a lot of mist or gasoline squirting in the carburetor it would indicate fuel pump and accelerator pump are working and you may have an ignition problem.

If no fuel squirts into the venturi area of the carburetor then there is the possibility of several problems and these are included in the previous list.

What to do? Some times a temporary fix is to cool fuel supply lines and pump and then maybe some shielding might help. Cool water has been an aid to getting back on the road temporarily so carrying a gallon of drinking water is a good idea. In many cases once a vapor lock problem starts it soon gets worse.

Try removing the filter and blowing out with a reverse flow. The flow valves in most fuel pumps will not allow the fuel supply lines to be reverse blown from the carburetor. The fuel supply line to the pump can be reverse blown and, with a helper, the bubbles should be audible in the fuel filler neck.

Heat Soak

Is heat fed back to the engine from the exhaust manifolds when the engine is turned off.

... If the engine does not start because of Heat Soak it is because the fuel in the carburetor bowl has boiled away. It is also possible the fuel in the pump chamber and the lines have vaporized. Automotive mechanical fuel pumps do not pump vaporized gasoline very well. A properly mounted HD electric pump will usually refill the carburetor quickly.

... Cooling the fuel systems will help. But the quick fix that a lot of people use is a very dangerous process. Some people pour small amounts of gasoline (less than an ounce) into the throat of the carburetor then crank the engine. Some people pour the gasoline in while the engine is being cranked. Ether way the problem is the engine will often back-fire through the carburetor blowing the gasoline back out and starting a bad engine fire. A good engine fire is one you can put out quickly and it didn?t burn off your eyelashes!

Check out the closely related articles in these links:

http://groups.msn.com/FSJTECH101/techonly.msnw

http://groups.msn.com/FSJTECH101/fueladditives.msnw

Have a good one and CUL.. Don S..

[IslanderOffRoad]

Got the battery on a charger now, I'm thinking that might be it.

The oil looks very thin, not milky. There was coolant in both the rad. and the over flow.

Just replaced the fuel pump and filter last week.

Hoping the battery is it. I guess I need a new alternator.

[IslanderOffRoad]

Made it home without any problems on letting the jeep cool down, charging the battery, and adding some fuel (just in case the gauge is faulty)

watched the amp gauge the whole way back, would not read above 0... I'm taking it I need a new alt.

[Don S]

..
IslanderOffRoad;

... I had one act like that when the battery got drained too low. I was using more currant than the altinator was putting out. I turned off all the electical things I could and managed to limp home.
... Now days the NASCAR drivers do that during a race to try to keep going until there is a yellow flag.

Have a good one and CUL.. Don S..

[Messy Jessie]

well uncle rob it was a great comfort to know family would try and be there for my silly sake

[caionneach]

If your amp gauge is reading at or near zero, then it means your alternator senses your battery doesn't need charging. Under normal conditions, this would be a good thing, but I think you have reason to suspect the alternator's output. I would check the battery's charge and the alternator's output with an external gauge. They're cheap at an Auto parts store, and you don't have to take the alternator inside the store to check it.