Hood latch option

[serehill]

Agree to disagree

As of this post:
9 Yes
10 No
3 Not Sure.

So, I guess I wasn't wrong for waffling back and forth on this. With the vote split almost down the middle it looks like this may be one of those either love it or hate it ideas.

Thanks again everyone.

Resbum

Reason would be the difining vote not count. Because it's cool shouldn't be a valued vote. Because I don't like it shouldn't either. If the usage of the vehicle doesn't cross with your concerns then it would be cool. Contrary to other beliefs the suggestion of the intercooler does reflect a lot of highway driving.
as always these are Opinons & it is what you want that it boils down to at the end of the day which is what happens in most of these.

My opinion of why it won't work may not have anything to do with your needs. Good Luck.

[Resbum]

... Contrary to other beliefs the suggestion of the intercooler does reflect a lot of highway driving.

I've valued your other input, but I'm not sure how you came to that. I am most definitely not building an asphalt queen. Most turbo diesels running 40psi of boost need an intercooler (aftercooler), regardless of where they're being driven.

As a matter of fact, as soon as the truck is finished I'm moving to the middle of eastern Oregon to build an off-the-grid cabin and the nearest asphalt is 8 miles away. I need a good, tough, simple work/recreation truck. I geared it such that I only felt a need to put an 80mph speedometer in it.

Full-float Dana 60 rear & Dana 60HD front
---both running 1.5" chromoly axles, 4.11 G2 gears, and TrueTrac diffs
1 ton leafsprings
Load range E Hankook DYNAPRO MT RT03
NP205 twin-stick transfer case
.120 wall 3.5" driveshafts with 1410 joints
47RH trans reworked to handle 1100ft/lbs torque
Crossover steering conversion
.25" wall, 1.5" DOM tierod and draglink
AGR steering box
4way disc brake/hydroboost conversion
22 honest inches of ground clearance between the axles
Onboard compressed air
Haven't decided on an onboard welder yet
Not a computer or sensor one on the engine or trans.




No Sir, I haven't spent 1 1/2 years of my life to build an asphalt queen. And, as you can tell from this answer, making blind assumptions from random tidbits got under my skin.

I have made my own decisions on this truck, and will continue to do so. However, after all the hard work I didn't want to put something on it the other FSJ owners would not appreciate, or worse.

Each and every one of us has seen that vehicle where the owner has done something and we think to ourself, "what the H*** was he thinking!!!"

THAT is why I asked for other FSJ owners opinions. I honestly want to know what they thought of the idea. That simple.

Resbum

[ProTouring442]

I agree & have a brand new cable I would trade or sell. I built a plate & added it to my plate the cable used to attach to & now can open from the front. I'm done with the internal latch. Those things are a pita but I wouldn't trust these one it's pretty obvious to anyone wanting in there & i would be afraid of the ablity to retain the pressure.

If they will hold the hood of a CJ down, they shouldn't have too much difficulty with an FSJ

Those leather straps are hillarious I can't imagine trying to hold a hood closed when they break without weather issues from my fat a UH under normal conditions

They worked, and were required for racing cars for many a year. Modern materials have made them obsolete, but in their day, they were the best. If I recall, some early aircraft used similar leather straps.

My miss-adjusted factory hood latch (previous owner) popped loose one fine afternoon, and the factory safety catch's not-so-strong spring allowed it to pop open. I plan on retaining the factory latch (minus the inside cable) but I will also be adding a similar as the OP. These FSJ hoods are hard to see through!

[serehill]

Yeah I know the feeling

I've valued your other input, but I'm not sure how you came to that. I am most definitely not building an asphalt queen. Most turbo diesels running 40psi of boost need an intercooler (aftercooler), regardless of where they're being driven.

As a matter of fact, as soon as the truck is finished I'm moving to the middle of eastern Oregon to build an off-the-grid cabin and the nearest asphalt is 8 miles away. I need a good, tough, simple work/recreation truck. I geared it such that I only felt a need to put an 80mph speedometer in it.

Full-float Dana 60 rear & Dana 60HD front
---both running 1.5" chromoly axles, 4.11 G2 gears, and TrueTrac diffs
1 ton leafsprings
Load range E Hankook DYNAPRO MT RT03
NP205 twin-stick transfer case
.120 wall 3.5" driveshafts with 1410 joints
47RH trans reworked to handle 1100ft/lbs torque
Crossover steering conversion
.25" wall, 1.5" DOM tierod and draglink
AGR steering box
4way disc brake/hydroboost conversion
22 honest inches of ground clearance between the axles
Onboard compressed air
Haven't decided on an onboard welder yet
Not a computer or sensor one on the engine or trans.




No Sir, I haven't spent 1 1/2 years of my life to build an asphalt queen. And, as you can tell from this answer, making blind assumptions from random tidbits got under my skin.

I have made my own decisions on this truck, and will continue to do so. However, after all the hard work I didn't want to put something on it the other FSJ owners would not appreciate, or worse.

Each and every one of us has seen that vehicle where the owner has done something and we think to ourself, "what the H*** was he thinking!!!"

THAT is why I asked for other FSJ owners opinions. I honestly want to know what they thought of the idea. That simple.

Resbum

LOL I didn't assume yours was an asphalt queen at all. It has the power & mechanical ability to do both it's top end will be better probably than most right?????
I wasn't assuming anything that isn't possible & clearly understand my needs are not someone elses. I've heard more of that than you ever will. MIne gets off road & I didn't build it to beat it. So I get what you target was.

Too bad not leaving clear information leads to blind assumption it is human nature by all. It still was not blind no one said it was a road warrior just capable of speeds to do so.
Assumptions about assumptions seem to be at hand here. I don't understand where one is OK where the other isn't. But that's OK I can live with that. I have no intentions of telling anyone how to build their rig. It's yours.
It's clear that turbos need intercoolers. It's also assumed that you were building a total machine. There should be credit for that since we're all assuming you know.

Tons have said what the H was I thinking also & They can no problem. Like you I built it for me.

There Is NO doubt your rig is very nice.

[serehill]

No argument here

If they will hold the hood of a CJ down, they shouldn't have too much difficulty with an FSJ



They worked, and were required for racing cars for many a year. Modern materials have made them obsolete, but in their day, they were the best. If I recall, some early aircraft used similar leather straps.

My miss-adjusted factory hood latch (previous owner) popped loose one fine afternoon, and the factory safety catch's not-so-strong spring allowed it to pop open. I plan on retaining the factory latch (minus the inside cable) but I will also be adding a similar as the OP. These FSJ hoods are hard to see through!

They had their place & a museum is a great place for them. They are hard on the finish. FSJ Hoods absolutely not doubt they are hard to see through LOL. Evalution has put them in thier place. I'm not nay saying any of this everything is cool is designd to do so. I'm also not a big fan of th efatory saftey patch I modified mine.

[rockrollin]

Good!

I did this on my KJ, but I left the secondary "saftey" latch in place. I do see the concern in them catching on something being out farther on the FSJ than the JK or KJ. Look good, looks utilitarian.

[DanHS]

My hood unlatched once at about 35mph and the safety catch didn't do anything. After getting it straightened out enough to close correctly, I put a safety chain on it. I've since gotten the hood to close rather nicely, even after the drunk driver mangled everything, but I keep that safety chain, that hood is just so big and catches air so easily that I still don't entirely trust the original latches.

I like the idea of those latches, but I feel they might not be strong enough for this application, how strong is that adjustable screw in the middle? Is it possible to just move the original latches further out toward the corners? Or maybe just make something stronger of your own design, even just hood pins would be simple and plenty strong.

[ProTouring442]

There is a narrow margin of works/doesn't work on the factory safety catch, and it is probably a very good idea for each and every one of us to take the time to do a bit of very overdue maintenance on the latches on our trucks.

1) Make sure the hood latch, and especially the safety latch is well lubricated! If it moves stiffly, it may not move far enough to catch the sheet metal , or it may not move quickly enough to do so before the wind has the hood fully in your face.

2) One of the biggest problems I have found is the safety latch spring which appears to have been marginal at best when our trucks were new. 30, 40, or 50 years later, these springs have subjected to heat, vibration, and more than their share of rust, making them all but useless. Replace them now with a spring that makes the safety latch spring into place with an authoritative snap when you pull the hood release.

3) On Jeeps with the inside hood release, make sure it is properly adjusted! As I discovered too late with my own Wagoneer, the hood would close and latch into place, but the release was already half-released making the full release of the hood, as I soon discovered, a good pothole or two away.

4) Make sure the spring cups on the lower half of the latches rise fully to the top of the hood latch pins. These help keep pressure on the latch assembly so when the Jeep twists and shakes, the latch doesn't try to work its way loose. They also pop the hood up when you pull the release.

Hope that helps. If I missed anything, or made an error, please throw me under the... I mean please add whatever you feel is missing!

[muddy]

voted yes, but it was more of a vote for something better than the stock latch.

Have you considered other types of hood locks/pins/hold downs???
I've been looking at ones like these,http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universa...-/310691139528
I believe they make ones like this that are locking as well.

[Resbum]

voted yes, but it was more of a vote for something better than the stock latch.

Have you considered other types of hood locks/pins/hold downs???
I've been looking at ones like these,http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universa...-/310691139528
I believe they make ones like this that are locking as well.

After 8 months I thought this thread was done. Thanks guys for the last three posts. Some good food for thought.

Thanks muddy. Those are some interesting latches. I'll look into them further.

Resbum

[teking]

The M715's have one similar to a CJ:




Evidently this makes the hood crack in the middle somewhere on the M715's. Mine hasn't cracked (yet) but I would say be sure to keep your old latch as well to keep the hood from cracking.

But it is not the side latches on the M715 that cause the hood to crack in the center. Those come from the fact that the M715 does NOT have the front dual latch pin bar under the hood. M715 only has the one pin on the passenger side. It is this lack of cross reinforcement that causes the M715 hood to crack.

I have the OPs side latches install on my M715 restomod and they work great AS LONG as you also install the dual pin cross brace on the front of the hood. Which I have. The OPs side latches will work great for any civi FSJ because they already have that front brace.