Any suggestions while engine is out? Firewall Prep?

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  • 80wag
    232 I6
    • Jun 19, 2006
    • 205

    Any suggestions while engine is out? Firewall Prep?

    In process of having block redone and motor is out. Any thing you guys suggest that is easy to do while motor is out that could help the engine bay?

    Right now its pretty clean, paint is good, old wagonmaster redo still looks good under the hood. I was thinking about tackling a leak issue I have, I don't know where its coming from, leaking water right onto brake pedal.

    As far as the firewall is there any insulation that should be put on the outside that faces the engine or is all the insulation on the interior side?

    Thanks, Posting pics of new motor soon. Mario in Fort Worth
    90 GW, 360/727,NP229, FR D44, RR D44w Detroit, TADS SOA KIT, 35s, 1950 Willys CJ3-UV, original
  • chrisnsarah
    360 AMC
    • Sep 24, 2000
    • 3282

    #2
    keep insulation on the interior side.

    Detail the compartment.

    Change transmission seal.
    '64 J200 thriftside
    '67 J2000 townside custom cab
    '68 Jeepster Commando
    '69 Super Wagoneer
    '75 J10
    '79 Cherokee S WT
    '75 Cherokee
    '61 Aristocrat Lil Loafer

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    • andy d
      Shade Tree Shaman
      • May 06, 2000
      • 7205

      #3
      when I had the engine out on the new 88, I spent an entire day going over the wiring harness. Then I put it in new loom and cable tied it to the fender.
      \'88 gwag,pure stock

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      • Jayrodoh
        360 AMC
        • Sep 07, 2004
        • 3221

        #4
        Front seal on the tranny for sure, less than $10.

        Good time to replace the front brake lines if they're getting rusty.
        Honey?? What happened to the savings account? You bought a Jeep what??

        86 Grand Wag Stock with Bulltear HEI

        Comment

        • Dmntxn77
          Hey watch this...
          • Nov 19, 2004
          • 8329

          #5
          Inspect for cracks around your engine mounts and steering box. If you have any, now would be the time to fix it...

          Comment

          • 80wag
            232 I6
            • Jun 19, 2006
            • 205

            #6
            Thanks for the tips guys, I will have a look at the harness and see if I can clean it up any way. Transmission seal for sure, I am going back with new engine mounts since the old ones were shot. THanks Mario
            90 GW, 360/727,NP229, FR D44, RR D44w Detroit, TADS SOA KIT, 35s, 1950 Willys CJ3-UV, original

            Comment

            • Joe Guilbeau
              304 AMC
              • Apr 17, 2002
              • 2137

              #7
              Look for two plugs on the back of the block where the flywheel mounts up to. There is a verticle block casting between the plugs. If you pur small brass fittings into these plugs and connect them with a small (1/4") brass tube, by grinding a pathway thru the block casting, then your oil pressure will be like 60 or 70 like mine is.
              Joe Guilbeau<br />1983 Cherokee Laredo WT (SJ-17), 360/229/727/D44/D60 4.10 Gearing, 8-lug hubs, Edelbrock Performer w/EGR Intake, Mallory Unilite Series 47 Photo-Optic Infrared Trigger Vacuum Distributor, Mallory Surge Protector, Mallory Promaster Coil, Holley Pro-Jection TBI 502-Analog, FlowKooler High Output Water Pump, Staggered 4-Core Custom Industrial Radiator, HD Fan Clutch, Dual Electric Fans, CS130 Delco 105-Amp Alternator, Oil Bypass Mods at Rear of Block and Distributor Oiling, Superlift 4\" Suspension, Rancho RS5000\'s, Hi-Tech 31\" Re-Treads, Aero 33 Gal Tank w/Skid Plate, Custom Rear \"Longhorn\" Bumper

              Comment

              • Subic Jeep
                327 Rambler
                • Apr 03, 2007
                • 549

                #8
                Clean &amp; Paint

                When the engine is out, clean and paint the engine bay it's good preventive measure and is much more difficult to do later. Us a lighter color, my color is too dark makes it difficult to see.

                This area needs attention rust prone...



                As the engine was in place I had to spray the paint without thinner, that is does not get the right shine..
                This is better....
                Lars

                I am in the five bananas category!
                Cherokee 1981 officially 1974 huh local irony
                Gen 1 GM-SB 350 V8 TBI - TH400 - Klune V - Twin stick NP205 w. Nippon shifter
                Dana 60 w. ARB locker, hydraulic assist + GM 14FF w. Detroit locker.4-link rear on LC80 19mm coils
                Rancho 5036 Shocks 14 inch travel. 39.5x15.5x15 TSL

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                • CHEEP J10
                  232 I6
                  • Nov 02, 2007
                  • 64

                  #9
                  PUT IN A HAMSTER WHEEL AND TAKE A PICTURE JUST FOR FUN. LOL
                  1979 J10
                  MSD 6AL
                  MSD Blaster 2 coil
                  87 Chevy 2500 brake upgrade
                  BROKEN WINDSHIELD
                  NO EMMISSION SYSTEM
                  258cu.in 3spd stick
                  Dana 20 T/C TWIN STICKED
                  Dana 44 Front & Rear 3.07
                  cs-144 upgrade

                  I'VE BEEN DOING SO MUCH WITH SO LITTLE FOR SO LONG.
                  I'M NOW QUALIFIED TO DO VIRTUALLY ANYTHING WITH ABSOLUTLY NOTHING.

                  Comment

                  • 80wag
                    232 I6
                    • Jun 19, 2006
                    • 205

                    #10
                    Thanks again, a lighter color did wonders for my garage, no longer like a cave, I'm sure it will reflect light on the motor when I 'm trying to look at something. Will do lighter color, grey looks good. Mario
                    90 GW, 360/727,NP229, FR D44, RR D44w Detroit, TADS SOA KIT, 35s, 1950 Willys CJ3-UV, original

                    Comment

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