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  #21  
Old 07-28-2018, 10:24 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Well the clutch came in and I bolted it up. Everything went together without issues, as expected. This clutch is huge compared to the 6.5TD, as is the 1 3/8" input shaft...
Here is the clutch kit.


Here is the 1.375" input, bearings, and retainer.




And Comparing the GM 1.125" to the CTD 1.375" input.



The issue with the retainer was really simple. $100 at a local machine shop in Everett turned down the transmission pilot diameter on the retainer to the same as the old one and used a mill to elongate the holes as well. Really simple job. I didnt get pics since its a super simple job, but I was worried about end play and having to tear the NV4500 apart to re-shim the shafts. It turned out, since I used a full cummins rebuild and pressed the cummins bearing race into the GM retainer, when I swapped the retainer, the new race was only 0.002" deeper in the transmission. That tightened up the end play a little, but I built it at 0.004" end play, 0.002"-0.010" is the spec in the TSM. If i Had used the GM bearing, I would have had to re-shim the mainshaft and counter shafts.


And the trans reassembled and the AA bell and parts ready to receive the motor, but it is still in the same location when it had the 6.5TD, I havent moved it yet.



And the CTD being hoisted into position... Man I HATE lifting a 1400lb motor that high... the top of the bumper is about 42" off the floor.....



I spent all day Thursday (7-26) getting the motor bolted up to the NV4500 and had to get really creative on how to allow the CTD/NV/205 to move back while still being supported... But by the afternoon on Friday the 27th, the new crossmember was made and it was bolted up to the frame and the trans/tcase were supported by the frame. Hopefully, I will have the motor mounts done next week...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 07-28-2018 at 10:40 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-01-2018, 08:14 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Well I stopped by the storage on my way home from work and snapped a few pics of the cross member... Dont mind the dirt and oil, it was from that leaky 6.5TD.... It will get cleaned up



From the front...




From the back... There is about 1/4 to 3/8" gap between the top of the front output and the body, just enough...


And from the side...




As you can see, no part of the bellhousing, transmission, or transfercase are below the frame... Those are 9/16 fine thread grade 8 bolts bolted through the frame and cossmember...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2018, 01:04 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,063
With only 3/8" clearance are you sure it isn't going to hit when you give it some willy on a steep hill?
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #24  
Old 08-17-2018, 09:30 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Only time will tell. The motor isnt in its final position quite yet. I havent had much time to get the motor mounts finished. Between kids appointments and having to get an oxy/acetylene setup it has been delayed week after week.
On a good note however, I picked up and will be using hydraulic motor mounts so it should keep the motor vibrations to a minimum. Just need to get welding!

I had clearance issues with the FSO solenoid and the brake master cylinder so I removed it from its factory position and need to make a new bracket for it...
I was able to fabricate a bracket for the injection pump to throttle cable. I just used the same cable i had used for the 6.5TD. It was strait forward and works very well.



I also dropped off a fan hub at the machine shop to be modified... I am using the industrial fan hub from a 4bt because i needed the fan to be centered and moved ~3" higher. This fan hub does just that but will not bolt up the factory fan clutch and pulley...


First, 3/16" will be taken off the mount face to move the entire hub closer to the block... This is because the bearings sit about 1/16" higher than the original hub. That will cause the bearings to sit 1/8" closer to the block now.
Second, 1/8" will be taken off the fan side for clearance. The snap ring sits 3/16" down in the bore with the bearings behind it so that will be reduced to 1/16" leaving 1/8" total from the face to the bearing. This is for clearance purposes...

Third, the factory hub will be machined down from 32mm to 30mm to press into the industrial bearings. Also, as you can see in the above pic, the shoulder on the industrial hub is much longer. Once the factory hub in machined, it will have a second shoulder 1/8" below the first one increasing the total shoulder height from 1/8" to 1/4"... Remember the 1/8" I had taken off the hub bracket face for clearance? Now this will leave 1/8" between the hub and the hub bracket once they are pressed back together...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 08-17-2018 at 10:15 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2018, 05:17 AM
Mikel's Avatar
Mikel Mikel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 09, 2000
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 6,202
Very nice
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1969 M715 6x6
1963 J300 Swivel frame
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  #26  
Old 08-23-2018, 09:44 AM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
And after a few days, I got the fan hub parts back and reassembled them...


The hub brackets sit almost exactly the same height! You can see the bearings sit 1/8" down from the front now on the industrial bracket (Right) face vs flush on the Dodge bracket (left, no bearing).







And the fully assembled fan hub.



I will be over at storage later today to get it bolted on and hopefully get the passenger side motor mount finished. Then tomorrow, The drivers side mount... After that, I will be changing my radiator. The one I have now should be sufficient (its 27.5" width overall, 22.5"x19" core with 1" pipes), but its all dissembled now so it would be easy to widen the core support and drop in a bigger radiator. I havent decided yet on the size really, there are 2 options. A universal Griffin MegaCool that has 1.25" core pipes and is 31"x19" overall with a 26"x19" core or try and squeeze in the stock dodge cummins radiator; but that is 44" wide total with a 36" wide core....


Once the motor is bolted in on its mounts and the front core support is ready to go back in, thats when I will decide...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 08-23-2018 at 10:01 AM.
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  #27  
Old 09-21-2018, 06:00 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Well much has happened since my last post...I finished the motor mounts (very strait forward using 3/8" steel), got the fuel lines redone (moved from passenger side to drivers side on the frame) and hooked up and I modified the inner fenders... Also in the process of rewiring the front under hood harness. I picked up a fuse box from a 1992 XJ that I will wire up and use the relays to power the headlamps, starter, ect... I twill really tidy everything up.


Here are some pics of the motor sitting on its mounts and the fenders bolted (loosely) back into place... They arent completely finished, I will trim and drill the top that bolts to the core support as soon as I get it back in and also widened...


The bottom of the tray is 6" down giving my 14" from the tray to the lowest portion of the hood. I can fit 4, 94 size batteries under the hood now and still have room...




The 18ga sheet metal cut and formed to be welded into the inner fender.








Next week, Hopefully I will be able to get the core support mounted and my new radiator installed. I know the factory size one will work for a stock or mild cummins, but this one has 50hp injectors, 17 degrees advance on the timing, KDP fixed, and will be running a modified HE351 as seen in the pics. I found a 36"x18.5" rad that should fit very well...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 09-21-2018 at 06:11 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-24-2018, 05:59 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
I had some time this morning to work on it and I installed 1" body lift on the cab to gain some clearance between the transfercase and the body and to also increase the distance between the top of the frame and the hood to fit the new radiator a little better.


Here is a mock up of the radiator and core support. I cut off the body mounts of the core support and have it just resting there mostly in position to check the fit of the radiator.


I didnt remove the mounts on the frame yet so the radiator will drop down about another 1-1.5 inches.



Also, in the second pic, there is about 1/2" between the fan and the radiator but it is not in its final position. It will go another 1-1.25" forward leaving 1.5-1.75" between the fan and radiator. It will be mounted in the same location as the factory radiator as soon as I get the core support welded back together.






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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #29  
Old 09-27-2018, 12:09 PM
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bluehwy bluehwy is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2014
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 67
Loving your build! Thanks!
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Previous: 1988 Grand Wagoneer
Current: 1979 Wagoneer

"Well I've been down so GD long! and it looks like up to me..." Furry Lewis
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  #30  
Old 09-27-2018, 11:25 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Thanks Bluehwy. It’s a lot of work swapping this beast...

Today I spent much of my day fabricating the new core support body mounts and welding them up. As of this moment, the core support and valence are all bolted back up. I had to adjust the hood latches a little bit no biggie.

I have the radiator mocked up and it seems I don’t need the body lift at all. I can keep it exactly as is and just mount the radiator 2” above the frame, or remove the body lift, mount the radiator an inch lower, and make a better crossmember and lower the transfer case about an inch. I don’t know what I’m going to do really...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #31  
Old 10-03-2018, 09:38 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Well I didnt post pics of the radiator size comparison so here they are...
The new one is well, shiny compared to the old...
Old is 27"x19" the new one is 35"x18.5" but the cap area does go up to 36"... Its a much more massive radiator.




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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #32  
Old 10-03-2018, 09:49 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Now I finally had a few hours earlier today to get the radiator mounts tacked on and test fit. I had to modify the right side a little to make it fit but in the end worked well. I took the mounts off the old radiator, which I used off the original aluminum radiator I installed about 8 years ago (ebay one). I will make a new fiberglass fan shroud using the same method as I did in my 6.5TD swap thread.

There is almost exactly 1.5" between the fan and the radiator as expected. It is mounted in the factory location, obviously just wider. And the fan clutch still has about 1/4" of thread left.

You can also see I changed the thermostat housing to that of the 4bt. I had to because the belt wouldnt clear the stock thermostat housing between the alt and fan pulley. I put a robertshaw highflow tyle tstat in there along with a water pump from a 6.7 cummins. They both bolted right up. I ordered the alternator support bracket and am just waiting for it to arrive. Thermostat housing p/n: 3285102, alternator bracket p/n: 3287096, and the spacer in the bracket is p/n: 3910715.









And the Alternator bracket, spacer, and a bolt... I need to install it soon...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 10-19-2018 at 06:16 PM.
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  #33  
Old 10-06-2018, 11:05 AM
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bluehwy bluehwy is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2014
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 67
Do you have experience with Howe radiators? I
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Current: 1979 Wagoneer

"Well I've been down so GD long! and it looks like up to me..." Furry Lewis
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  #34  
Old 10-07-2018, 01:44 PM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Location: New Haven, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehwy
Do you have experience with Howe radiators? I




I've run a couple for years and never had a problem.
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1969 M715 6x6
1963 J300 Swivel frame
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  #35  
Old 11-02-2018, 11:34 AM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Well I was able to fire it up for the first time using the key! Since the stock location for the FSS was hitting the massive brake master cylinder I use (1.375" bore), I had to relocate it and had a crazy idea. I originally made a bracket and it bolted on the side of the injection pump but I was having some alignment issues.

So I decided to take the factory bracket, heat it up, and forge it completely flat. I used my 2.5lb hammer and a 1" thick steel plate and hammered it flat, drilled one hole, and bolted it to the front of the injection pump.

I removed the 6mm threaded rod and bought a 1m piece of stainless 6mm threaded rod and made an extended rod for the FSS. It is not completely attached to the IP, but it works great!




I also rewired my entire engine bay, for the 3rd time... This time, I did it right. I used an underhood fuse/relay box from an XJ, I think late 80's, I got for $15 from a Pick n Pull. I removed every pin, opened them all up, soldered new wires to the pins and reassembled everything. Now my main feed line into the cab is fused (100A) High and Low beams are fused (30A ea) and have their own relays, same goes for the starter and FSS pull line.

And I have 2 other relays with 4000micro farad capacitors under them with 2 diodes that control my side marker lights. When parking lights are off, marker+turn flash together. When parking lights are on, marker+parking are on. When parking lights are on, and the turn signal is activated, the relay triggers and charges the capacitor so the relays stays on when the turn signal turns off. This causes the marker light to flash with the turn signal even if the marker lights are on. After the turn signals are deactivated, it takes about 2-2.5 seconds for the relay to discharge the capacitor and click off, turning the marker back on with parking. I can make a quick schematic and upload it later.
Here is the schematic:

Its a super simple circuit. Parking lamps go through 87a so the relay isnt activated with markers on. When the turn signal is activated, it activates the relay and charges the capacitor. When it cycles off, the power on pin 87 is dropped so the light turns off but the capacitor holds the relay activated long enough for the turn signal to cycle back on and charge it back up. After the turn signal is deactivated, the relay will drain the capacitor and click off which will switch back to 87a thus turning the marker circuit back on. The only downside is there has to be a relay for each side. I wired my side markers like this along with the markers on my mirrors as well. The time the relay stays on is completely independent of the load/bulbs used.





Now on to the fuel filter setup. I want to run a 2 mic filter and a separate filter/separator... With the lift pump on the engine, I should not run them under the body and have the pump suck through it. I could have a 10-20 mic filter with the separator under the body and have the 2 mic on the stock filter head, but then I came across this... Cummins 4989116... It may need to have the hole enlarged to fit the m20 filter adapter through it along with a longer adapter, and have the other filter adapter removed and replaced with a different one. It appears to use Filter FF5052 on the long adapter (below stock head) and separator FS1280.
This uses a longer filter adapter thread and a thin nut to bolt it up to the bottom of the filter head. It is $85 from Arkansas Diesel service on ebay. I have bought a lot of stuff from them for this project.
FF5052 has been discontinued but the Wix number is 33777. It has a M16x1.5 thread so the main opening will need to be opened up to fit the 20mm thread. Both filters have gasket sizes is 62mm ID and 69mm OD.
FS1280 seems readily available and is Wix number 33357. It has 13/16-18 thread so the offset adapter will need to be changed out.

The other option, I will have a adapt the stock filter head to 1"-14 either by machining a new adapter thats M20x1.5 on one side and 1"-14 on the other, or machining the filter head to 1"-14 and running a strait 1"-14 adapter. Then install a separate filter head mounted somewhere else with 1"-14 already and then figure out the plumbing. Using the above dual filter head unit, the stock plumbing can be retained, and even reversed in a matter of minutes.




Apparently Cummins 3915240 is another part number for this dual head assembly. These dual filter heads bolt right up to 1st gen cummins with no modification at all. They changed the filter stud sizes on 2nd gen so they will require some mods to run but should be very strait forward. When I order this dual head setup, I will post pics of the mods and parts I get so others can follow the same setup!
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 11-06-2018 at 08:23 PM.
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  #36  
Old 11-28-2018, 10:00 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 168
Alrighty, I got the parts back from the machine shop and assembled everything to make sure it all fits... The fuel is directed to the offset filter first then back to the main filter and back through the head unit. I had two, 3" grade 8, 1"-14 tpi bolts drilled out and one was machined to the same thread as the adapter in the offset filter location. It goes from about 5/8" to the 1" and there is an oring under it to seal it to the housing. Then there is the square oring that came with the filter.

I then had the main head unit drilled out and tapped to 1"-14 and drilled out the through hole to 1" as well. There are two orings between the heads, one small around the threads, and one about 3" round on the outer edge to seal them up. Then there is a 1/2" tall, nut that holds the dual filter unit to the main unit. It also has a seal under it so there is no way for fuel to leak past any of the threads and bypass the filters.

I will probably create a riser to move the filter assembly up about 3" to gain clearance above the lift pump. The Primary is a 2 micron wix filter and the secondary is a 10 micron/separator. I like the clear bowl so I can see when there is crap in it that needs to be drained.


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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 11-28-2018 at 10:08 PM.
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