1979 J10 Project

[91blaze]

I hate star bits!!!
I got some PB Blaster at Autozone, I guess they just don't have it online for some reason. I sprayed the screw and waited for like ten minutes then whacked it with a hammer a few times. After trying to get it loose for another 5 minutes or so I decided to spray it and whack it with the hammer a few more times. No luck.

So, now I've got a nearly rounded out screw, I'm going to let it set for a few hours and see if that helps. If not, I guess I'm gonna have to get the drill out I'm sure I can find a replacement with a regular bolt head at Tractor Supply. The people at Tractor Supply and Autozone are going to love me.

[91blaze]

Wow I feel stupid. The screw head was fake or something. Can anybody explain this for me, it seems like there is no break in the metal where I removed the screw head.



The head of the screw:



The thread:



I have some pictures I will put up in a few minutes.

[the original Honcho]

Ouch, thats rusty! I had a lot of trouble with a rusty caliper on an early 90s Blazer one summer in Hartford City. in the desert Ive never had that issue before. I only saw a few FSJs in that part of Indiana.... and they were in pretty rusty shape

[91blaze]

Exterior shots:











Engine:





Interior:







Replacement bench seat:



Front driveshaft was inside the truck. Is there anything wrong with it other than needing new u-joints?



Fortunately I have a good friend who owns a machine shop so I will be able to fix a good amount of the rust and frame. The engine will be the fun part because it's my first time tearing into one. Actually, this is only my 2nd vehicle, so this will be a big learning experience. Thanks to you guys I hopefully won't get overwhelmed with this project like the previous owner did.

[91blaze]

Ouch, thats rusty! I had a lot of trouble with a rusty caliper on an early 90s Blazer one summer in Hartford City. in the desert Ive never had that issue before. I only saw a few FSJs in that part of Indiana.... and they were in pretty rusty shape

Yep, that's Indiana for ya. That's why I was so mad when I lost the other truck.

[Southern Gorilla]

That's not rust, it's "patina". Throw a Navajo blanket on the seat and you have yourself a sweet rat rod that will probably go for $30,000 on Ebay.

[Tornado230]

The end of the drive shaft is not there.
Check out the Tom Collins site. Look at any of the TSM's listed.
Drive shaft basically the same regardless of year. End is the same, lengths are different based on 3-speed or 4-speed/auto transmission.

[91blaze]

That's not rust, it's "patina". Throw a Navajo blanket on the seat and you have yourself a sweet rat rod that will probably go for $30,000 on Ebay.

That's a great idea, why didn't I think of that.

[91blaze]

The end of the drive shaft is not there.
Check out the Tom Collins site. Look at any of the TSM's listed.
Drive shaft basically the same regardless of year. End is the same, lengths are different based on 3-speed or 4-speed/auto transmission.

Ok, I see now. Guess that's one more thing I need to find.

[Atla]

Ick. Thats a lot of rust.

WD-40 is a water distributor, not a penetrating oil. I don't know why people keep thinking that. It's common misinformation.

PB Blaster is great, but Kroil is better. More expensive, but that stuff will creep in every direction. Try it and you won't go back. Buy some and dump it in a old spray container.

[Strode]

Front driveshaft was inside the truck. Is there anything wrong with it other than needing new u-joints?

Your front driveshaft is missing the double cardan unit. Here's a picture of mine sitting in front of the rear one.




Also, the driveshaft is not clocked right. The yokes need to line up with each other.

You're a better man than me trying to tackle that one. For me, I'd call it too far gone with rust. I don't want to discourage anybody, but that looks like alot of work.
You should come out West and pick one up..........you'd come out far ahead not having to deal with all that rust.

[91blaze]

Now I need to remove the column because the lock cylinder won't come out at all. Can anybody help me?

[blkwarrior]

This the easy art remove the collar (carefull there are like six screws holding that thing on), then loosen the next collar that is on the firewall. Under the hood, you need to remove the transmission linkage then the two bolts that connects the steering box to the shaft. Once you get all that removed back in the cab remove the collar from the firewall. There are two Nuts that are left to be removed from both sids of the column just under the dash. Once all those are done all you have to do is turn and pull the column out. Just add a little PB to the stubborn bolts and they will come out. Take your time.

[91blaze]

This the easy art remove the collar (carefull there are like six screws holding that thing on), then loosen the next collar that is on the firewall. Under the hood, you need to remove the transmission linkage then the two bolts that connects the steering box to the shaft. Once you get all that removed back in the cab remove the collar from the firewall. There are two Nuts that are left to be removed from both sids of the column just under the dash. Once all those are done all you have to do is turn and pull the column out. Just add a little PB to the stubborn bolts and they will come out. Take your time.

The bolts inside are coming out easy but I'm just having trouble finding all the bolts that need to be removed. Also, I can't find all the screws that hold the plastic collar that's attached to the dash.

[fulsizjeep]

Indiana is clearly in the zone that rots out FSJs. The 79 is very rough and has sat long enough for the tires to sink up to the rims in dirt. $450 is too much for a parts rig. I think you should import a better truck from less rust prone area.

edit: Oh - never mind. You got the 79. I am sorry. For you.