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  #1  
Old 06-20-2000, 06:23 PM
bignblue
 
Posts: n/a
Angry

Uhhhh, fellas? Just for kicks, I engaged the emergency drive tonight. Nothing happened! Steering didn't tighten, light didn't go on (prolly bad bulb), nothing!

Where do I start wrenching? I'm going to need this on my vacation that starts June 30th!

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'78 Chero WT
401/4bbl/TH400/QT
44s F&R
"Please, just get me there!"
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2000, 06:54 PM
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Rye Rye is offline
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Join Date: Jun 15, 2000
Location: Mtn Home AFB, ID
Posts: 244
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I would start with checking the vacuum lines from the switch to the t-case. Other than that I wouldn't know.


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76 Wag 401 Th400 Q-trac w/ low range
3" body lift 32" BFG's
Dual exhaust
My first 4x4!!!
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  #3  
Old 06-21-2000, 01:13 AM
Teach Teach is offline
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Join Date: Apr 18, 2000
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 318
Red face

Good queation! Mine won't go into E-drive either. I checked the lines and they, surprisingly, were metal lines to the accentuator(?)/little round dealie on the Q-drive, which was loose. Any ideas?

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Teach
'76 Wagoneer
360,Q-T,Edlebrock Intake/carb
"If it ain't one thing, it's another...."
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  #4  
Old 06-21-2000, 01:14 AM
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scotty scotty is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Location: dayton,oh,45431
Posts: 6,627
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start by pulling off the vaccum lines on the t case(and remembering which one went where) and drafting a helper to move the switch back and forth while you feel for vaccum.if the vaccum switches between the lines as the switch is moved from normal to e drive,there is something wrong inside the t case,more than likely the little vaccum plunger thingy that moves the fork back and forth is bad.ive never done it,but hopefully this part is frequently replaced,and therefore somewhat inexpensive and an "easy to swap" part.

if youve got no vaccum at one or both lines,move up to the dash.take out the e drive switch and check for vaccum there.one hose should always be recieving manifold vaccum.if the hose coming from the engine has no vaccum youve found your problem.trace it to the end,and reattach it to a manifold vaccm port.replace it if its broken,or dry rotted.

if youve got vaccum to the switch,switch it back and forth with the other hoses off.the vaccum should move from one port to the other on the switch.if it doesnt,the switch is bad.if you get a big long hose and connect it to a manifold vaccum source,you should be able to get e drive to engage by connecting this hose directly to the correct port on the t case.

if the vaccum moves back and forth,yet you had no vaccum at the lines on the t case,those lines are pinched or broken somewhere.you should be able to get it working by finding the problem,and replacing these lines.

hope this helps.
scott
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  #5  
Old 06-21-2000, 01:16 AM
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scotty scotty is offline
 
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Location: dayton,oh,45431
Posts: 6,627
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oh yeah-you can check the bulb by grounding the wire that connects to the sensor on the t case.its right by the vaccum plunger thingy.

scott
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2000, 01:25 AM
Aaron Aaron is offline
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Join Date: May 18, 2000
Location: Downingtown, PA
Posts: 264
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I did that once and nothing happened, I then fixed the vacuum lines by the firewall. It went in, but it wouldn't come out for 3 days. I'll never put it back in again. When you do get it in, it feels like a normal 4wd truck, pops and bangs when it goes backwads and turns.
Does anyone know why mine was so hard to get out?
BTW, you don't need it anyway, I plow snow, and have never had any problems in normal.
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2000, 05:50 AM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 18, 2000
Location: Lakewood, Calif
Posts: 11,642
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For all...

The vacuum diaphram for the engaging of the E-drive is inside the round metal part on the backside of the QT. It's like a rubber (such as a fuel pump). As vacuum is applied it either pushes or pulls on the diaphram to engage or disengage.


As for difficulty in engaging or disengaging...probable vacuum loss due to faulty lines, switch and/or diaphram. If all these have been checked, the best thing I can tell you is to check your tire presure... all must be equal. Also if done on dry pavement... you will always have difficulty. if you do the same on a dirt road where traction is not 100%, chances are the process will go smoother than on pavement. You can also try slighty turning your wheels to take somne pressure off the center diff coupling ring. I have had to do this in reverse on occasion to disengage... but have always done this on dirt after my first attempt of trying it on pavement.

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TJ
78 Wagoneer "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's w/ 3.54's
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
33x12.50's on 15x10's
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/~spazz4life
"Where there's a hill...there's a way!"
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2000, 07:18 AM
Dean Dean is offline
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Join Date: Apr 09, 2000
Location: Medford,Oregon
Posts: 270
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bignblue:
I engaged the emergency drive tonight. Nothing happened!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I haven't bought one but I have heard that the vaccum motor on the back of the QT costs about $75 from Crown Auto. I replaced the rubber hoses, lubed the switch and plugged the wire back in to get mine working.



------------------
'78 Wagoneer Limited
401/Q-trac W/low range
Stock for now.........
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