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  #21  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:35 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Ive been taking some measurements and doing some research and heres what ive got: Sorry if the measurements are hard to read, i know how to properly label this stuff, just dont have the time...at least i know what it means haha


The red rectangle on the dodge is the region of the frame that im going to cut (34" needs to be cut). The section is a 10" tall C-channel, not boxed in like under the cab. The only thing that has me worried is that the cut will be ~8-10" from the spring mounts.
The 3500 is now registered and insured and I have driven it about 100 miles, its slow as can be, but it sure is fun! What i thought to be a lockup issue when the whole truck would violently shake until i decelerated-turns out to be "death wobbles" due to loss of caster from the 2.5" lift and worn front suspension parts (good news? haha). Looking at my schedule i wont be able to take the ram back home until the 30th. That weekend i should be able to cut/ re-weld the frame, and start swapping dodge parts for kaiser stuff!

Last edited by Mudbull : 09-11-2011 at 09:40 PM.
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  #22  
Old 09-12-2011, 01:11 AM
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mud89 mud89 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbull
Ive been taking some measurements and doing some research and heres what ive got: Sorry if the measurements are hard to read, i know how to properly label this stuff, just dont have the time...at least i know what it means haha


kaiser stuff!

If it's a J3000, the wheelbase should be 126'', and if it's a J2000 the wheelbase should be 120". The J3000s were shorter than the J20 (131'' WB)
Do you have the VIN, i just like figures and numbers
By the way, as said by another member thriftside are rare, and we like them.
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Last edited by mud89 : 09-12-2011 at 01:19 AM.
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  #23  
Old 09-12-2011, 07:52 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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haha thanks, i intend to ressurrect the thriftside bed now that i know what it is (the floor of the beds really the only 'bad' part). By grafting the floor of the dodge's bed into the thriftside, it should look stock instead of using a sheet of steel diamond plate like the previous owner had. I dont have the VIN # handy, but the emblems and measurements make it out to be a J2000 (120").
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  #24  
Old 09-12-2011, 04:08 PM
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good luck for your project
usually the vin plate is on the driver door jamb, but sometimes it's missing..
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  #25  
Old 09-13-2011, 06:36 PM
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I'm keeping a close eye on this one because I'm planning the same exact swap with my '65 J300. I've done some research and hope to chime in if I can help. Good Luck and can't wait to see some more progress!!
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  #26  
Old 09-22-2011, 10:45 AM
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76FSChief 76FSChief is offline
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Reading your thread we share a couple of different ideas. First is the Cummins swap, and secondly wanting to run 37" tires.

Not sure on your thoughts on the subject but I am going with M715 fenders in the front and cutting the rear quarters up on my Chief to make a 715 style lip on the back corners. There are a few different threads with J20 rigs running a similar set up if you want to check it out. The fenders allow for bigger tires without having to run a big lift and raising the center of gravity.

Something to check out anyways. Look forward to seeing more of your build.
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  #27  
Old 09-22-2011, 10:57 AM
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lobie lobie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76FSChief
Reading your thread we share a couple of different ideas. First is the Cummins swap, and secondly wanting to run 37" tires.

Not sure on your thoughts on the subject but I am going with M715 fenders in the front and cutting the rear quarters up on my Chief to make a 715 style lip on the back corners. There are a few different threads with J20 rigs running a similar set up if you want to check it out. The fenders allow for bigger tires without having to run a big lift and raising the center of gravity.

Something to check out anyways. Look forward to seeing more of your build.

Understand the fenders and tires but what's your different idea about the cummins?
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  #28  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:20 AM
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76FSChief 76FSChief is offline
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Ah sorry didnt mention the Cummins swap, as for that I kept the entire Dodge running gear so nothing really unique there IMO. Took the engine apart and threw in some new bearings, had a local machinist make up a new piece to repair the transfer case. Threw a new set of gaskets while torn apart and bolted the whole thing into the Jeep frame.

Trying to keep it as simple as possible.

OH and just reread my reply - that should be SIMILAR ideas NOT different!! Guess i need more coffee!
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  #29  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:11 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks guys for keeping an eye on my build..hopefully you can help keep me in line later when i actually start doing things. I havnt looked into how 37's would fit, but ive read that putting the J's body onto a ram frame is good for a few inches in height. The ram has worn 35's rite now, so i should be able to gage fitment issues before buying 37's.
Ive been doing a lot of research and talking with my friend whose into 94-98 rams. I was considering a doing an auto to manual swap (nv4500 or zf5/6), but im starting to think its not worth it, and ill just rebuild the the 47re auto myself to handle 4-500hp (valve body, billet input shaft, new clutch packs, and triple disk torque converter).

Apparently the frame trade is back in conversation. My friends cousin likes the extended wheelbase trucks, and wants my cab/frame. In trade ill get my friends 134" frame.

EDIT: I was talking with my friend and he said it would be fine if we cut, welded, and painted the frame up here so that when we take it down south to put the kaiser onto it, it will be finished. So it will still be a 120" wheelbase.

Ill still be going home the 30th to work on some cab rust, and to park the ram, but will have to wait on my friend to bring the 134" frame down to me.

Last edited by Mudbull : 10-05-2011 at 08:16 AM.
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  #30  
Old 10-01-2011, 07:50 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Well, heres a quick update after a 10hr day.



To keep costs and conversion hassles down (read wiring hassles) I am installing the ram gages into the kaiser dash, heres what i have so far:



Somehow in the mock-up i already managed to break the PCB, 3 of the 4 gauges arent working now!

I had to take ~3" out of the glove box door:



Ive gotten started on welding the floors together. I was initially going to buy the stamped pans, but decided the floor layout was simple enough i just bought some 16ga steel and am piecing it together slowly. Edit: pics of the floor work. Drivers side is way worse (thats why i started on the passanger side).

Last edited by Mudbull : 10-02-2011 at 06:02 PM.
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  #31  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:01 AM
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dusty dusty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbull
Thanks! the bodys a bit rough, but no dents, just missing the dually flares. the a/c controls are missing some vacuum lines but the power windows and locks even work. Its going to be really tough to tear into it because mostly everything still works...but I think the trans has something wrong with it. For an instant when i was test driving it, it began to shake real bad, but only once in the run (torque converter lockup or overdrive is probably bad). Even with that i couldnt have been more fortunate (or lucky) in finding it. It has 272,000 miles on it, but starts up pretty easily. The motor is all stock, no mods. The diffs have 3.54 gears, the rear is a posi D80...wish me luck down the road with all the wiring i have to do.

when you rebuild the posi (which is a Power lok) buy the dana 70HD clutch kit NOT the dana 80 clutch kit. the dana 80 clutch kit. the difference is huge, the dana 70HD kit comes with all steel clutches with 4 curved and 6 flats. the dana 80 clutch kit is all high dollar coated flat clutches you'll get better performance from the dana 70HD kit. they say they are not the same but i can vouch that they fit into each others housings. dana 80's and 70HD's arent too far off from each others. if you ever destory a dana 80 carrier you can grab a dana 70HD carrier machine the ringer bolt holes out and use it. this doesnt work with a dana 70 carrier without more machine work but the dana 70hd and dana 80 IIRC also share carrier bearings too

you can swap a flywheel and 5 speed in there pretty easily if you want. all you'll need is the bell housing, flywheel, flywheel bolts. everything else is bolt up (of course hydraulic slave, clutch fork, throw out and clutch.) then change the input on the t-case to 29 spline since with an auto it'll be 23 spline. otherwise if you have the torque converter shutter you'll be tearing the tranny down.

looking like a good start
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Last edited by dusty : 10-10-2011 at 12:25 AM.
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  #32  
Old 10-05-2011, 11:26 AM
rocklaurence rocklaurence is offline
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Man! That looks like a lot of work
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  #33  
Old 10-05-2011, 01:26 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks Dusty for the tip on the posi...I didn't know 70 and 80 components were interchangeable, I'll keep that in mind when I come to that.

I drove the ram for ~500 miles before parking it, the trans seems to be ok, lockup works great. I'm hoping to get a couple thousand miles out of the trans before rebuilding it and upping the boost on the engine. I think I'll be sticking with the auto, overall it'll be less time and money invested compared to finding all the manual parts (the manual would need to be upgraded sooner or later too). Plus with super-human shift speeds and no loss in boost between shifts the auto seems that much more appealing.
I'm not afraid of rebuilding the transmission when it needs it either, I rebuilt a manual t56 6spd and have been wanting to tear into an auto to learn about them for a while now.

This whole project is a lot of work, but hopefully with all the work it'll be less money spent than other avenues-and with a similar end result. I dont have much of either, but I have more expendable time than income...
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  #34  
Old 10-10-2011, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbull
........... I think I'll be sticking with the auto, overall it'll be less time and money invested compared to finding all the manual parts (the manual would need to be upgraded sooner or later too). Plus with super-human shift speeds and no loss in boost between shifts the auto seems that much more appealing.
..........

then again there's always that 2nd to 3rd jump that dodges have always been notorious for with their autos......
shoot id tell you to buy that nv5600 on pirate board for $1800, it has the bell, clutch fork, t-case and a flywheel can be bought for $300 from south bend with a sealed roller bearing.

can you tell im jadded and have been burned.... left on the side of the road by a dodge/ford/gm allison diesel auto or two. towing in the back country i grew tired of having to walk into town


great build good luck
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Last edited by dusty : 10-10-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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  #35  
Old 10-16-2011, 07:59 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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You make good points Dusty; Im going to have to save up my money and see whats available when the auto takes a dump...ive got too many projects, and once this one is drivable im moving on until it needs attention again.

I helped my friend take his 2500 ram appart. Hes swapping his drivetrain to an extended cab short bed. it took us about 8 hours to get down to the frame and install his 6bt/nv4500 into his new frame. Once everythings swapped over, this is the frame ill be getting-his old frame:

After the cab and front clip are on his new frame and whenever he and i have the time we'll be plasma cutting the frame and welding it back to the proper wheelbase for the kaiser.
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  #36  
Old 11-09-2011, 12:24 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Hey everyone, I havnt had a chance to do anything on the kaiser, and wont for at least half a year now. I got rear ended in my car a few weeks ago (1970 plymouth duster). The car is totalled now. Because of this i will be focusing almost all of my attention on the duster until its on the road. While i was towing a replacement body for my car with the 3500, i think the last thread holding the transmission together unwound.

Looking around craigslist now, i think i found a deal on either an nv4500 or nv5600 that will be going in the autos place-at the same or cheaper cost than rebuilding the auto. The swap or transmission rebuild will be happening in the next couple weeks, as im driving the 3500 around until i get my car fixed...
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  #37  
Old 11-09-2011, 11:55 AM
tndonor tndonor is offline
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Sorry to hear about the Duster and trans. I feel ya on life getting in the way of the fun projects. Hang in there it gets better
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  #38  
Old 11-09-2011, 02:34 PM
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Looks like you got some workable ideas here, I'm liking it. Hey if you do change your mind on that thriftside bed, lemme know.
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  #39  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:41 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Thanks guys! My friend found a great deal on an NV5600, so it looks like my build is going to be a bit beefier than i was planning for haha...best part is its looking like i can do the swap for not much more than a mildly modded automatic, but the 5600 will handle gobs more abuse. Ill post pictures of the trans later, the thing's massive-almost 400lbs w/ no fluid or tcase. Looking at the gears inside i dont see how anyone could break one of these!
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  #40  
Old 11-13-2011, 11:29 AM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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Putting my rental to good use:



My friend and i opened up the tailshaft housing to flush it all out (it'd been sitting outside for a while, sadly had some leaves in it). Everything now spins perfectly, we managed to shift it into a few gears even w/o the shifter. hopefully ill get the ram up and running in a week or so.

EDIT: my friend has a manual block adapter that i can "borrow" until i find one to give to him. I bought a cheap eBay shifter, and may have a good deal on a used stock clutch (should handle 6-700tq so itll be plenty for now). The swap will hopefully only take a few days once all the parts are here.

Last edited by Mudbull : 11-14-2011 at 11:00 AM.
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