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I finally got the 304 installed in my '86 GW. I don't know much about it, but what I did tear down looked new or very very low miles. It had a dizzy but I installed my new one from the former 360. The fuel pump and coil, also new, came from the 360. I followed the distributor instructions to the T, have fuel and spark, but not full start. I switched distributors and coils and carbs. It WANTS badly to start, does one powerful Vroom then craps out. Over and over, advanced, retarded, 180
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Put a small wire from the plus side of the battery to the plus side of the coil and try to start it and see if it keeps running!Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974
99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350
Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel. -
I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!
That did it! I should have tried that before. Thank you!
I have replaced both the switch and solenoid at least twice now on this thing so I should've known.
Now I can move on to the various leaks and tune it up.
Thank you!Comment
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Well, I guess I misinterpreted the tea leaves. I thought by successfully bridging the + and my coil that the switch was bad. I installed a new switch and solenoid and still had to use the jump wire.
What is it, then?
Totally confused now....Comment
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Could be a issue with the wiring or a connector.
Maybe you can test the wires with a voltmeter or a test probe or with a 12v light bulb with fitting and some length of wires on it (home made tester)
I once had this with my j4000 and it was the switch on the steering column.Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974
99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350
Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.Comment
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Ok thanks. Just to be sure, can I make sure I have the solenoid wired correctly?
Negative side goes to the starter. It's the only cable on that post.
Positive pole: battery positive cable, a connector with 2 fused link wires (one turns into red and heads to firewall, one turns into 2 red wires with one going to alternator connector, one goes to firewall), and one fused link wire turns red and goes to alternator B post.
I-post goes to coil +
S-post goes somewhere...
Does that sound right?Comment
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Not sure if this helps but most all rigs of the era had two power sources to the coil. During start it would receive 12 volts...once the starter was disengaged the 12 volts would stop and there was 6 volts provided to the coil. Sounds like the 6 volt feed is MIA.
J20
BP Drivetrain...........
Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair
775-537-7918
https://www.facebook.com/BPShafts/
Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"Comment
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1986 is when they "improved" the power distribution, so it is possible. I am going now to check the ICM. I will study your idea too. I did not alter anything when I removed the 360 and am hooking it all up the way it was, or so I think.
Thanks for all the input!Comment
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Ok, got it!
On the alternator there is a red wire and a resistor wire on the plug terminal. I spiced a new wire onto the resistor wire and ran that to the coil.
From my i-post on the solenoid I spliced that wire into the one I just added.
It starts, runs and shuts off.
Wee!Comment
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Good to hear you found the issue and fixed it.
Have a good weekend!Jeep "because mother nature hates flat roads to"
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=180974
99' Dodge ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.9 Cummins ,backup work truck for now
73' Jeep J4000 (named Heep or Desert Dragon) amc 360 V8 converted to LPG with T15/D20 (was my daily work truck for thirteen years and is getting major overhaul at the moment!)
80' Jeep cj5 350 V8 Chevy/sm420/D300 project
70/71 Jeep J4000 parts truck with Buick 350
Former vehicles:
85' Volkswagen caddy mk1 1.6 diesel.
83 Toyota land cruiser BJ42 3.4 diesel.Comment
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Thanks for all the input. Happy Father's Day to all of you Dads!Comment
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Nice trouble shooting1976 Jeep Wagoneer
Rebuilt, 360, TH400, QT.
Still not running. Soon!Comment
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Well, not so fast. I started it today and touched that resistor wire. It was super hot. I thought maybe because it was an inch from the header, but that didn't seem to make sense. I went to move it out of the way and it caused the engine to stop. It won't start now. I did some reading and realize I should not have spliced a resistor wire where I did. I seem to have disrupted the balance of the universe or something. I will reverse what I did and try again, splicing further up. Wish I could figure out what I did to cause all of this....Comment
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Last night I reversed my mistake, jumped the battery to coil and started the GW. I checked the resistor wire, now untapped, like it was before, and it was not hot.
I spliced into it about 2.5" away from where it joins the combined ignition/ICM wires. Here's where working at night has its advantage - you can easily see when your car is on fire....
Undid that and moved the connection to where they meet. No glowing wire, no fire. Ok then.
So, at the actual junction of the two [yellow, in my case] wires and the factory brown resistor wire I added the new wire to my coil + terminal.
Starts, runs, does not burn, and shuts off. Yea!Comment
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