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  #1281  
Old 11-28-2017, 02:52 AM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Ziebert
Al, do you have the template for that firewall pad? We are working our way home now and will be back working on the truck soon

I have a couple half done. I don't know if you would be willing to buy one. I can't give them away but I will send you a PM soon. I need to find a suitable shipping box for selling them later. I intended to hit that pretty hard soon. I have a jeep habit to support.
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It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.
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  #1282  
Old 11-28-2017, 03:08 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
I have been cleaning parts large and small. I am patiently waiting for several things to show up to proceed on assembly of the heater and getting the transmission and transfer case in.
I dug out the wipers and related parts. This is a good example of the condition of most of what I am trying to fix. Lots of pitting in this wiper part. Pretty much a mess.



I blasted the surface off to open up all the pits. Then used Icing glazing putty to skim coat them. After a long time hand sanding with 100 to 220 then to 600 I covered them and another set that was not quite as bad with cerakote satin magnesium. I thought covering filler would cause problems requiring a second coat later. It went on without any issues at all. If this were regular paint I would be working on them again tomorrow. I will pick the best two and go for it. This is a darker shade than the satin nickel. I like this one.



The wiper transmission arms are all cleaned up and also ready to go. Same with the washer spray nozzle. New neoprene gaskets for that one. So that is done.
I dipped a few parts in Must For Rust today. Like the coat hanger hooks. They had surface rust. Before...



And after. I did nothing but soak them and wipe them off with a blue paper shop towel. Amazing.. I will spray a light pass with MC160 high gloss clear to seal them for years of use.



And I wished I took a before shot of the transfer case shifter boot ring. It was worse than the coat hooks. I already cleared it.



I got several other things done. But I had to divert my fun to fix the wifes car. The road salt ceased up a brake caliper. I just put new brakes on last summer. And freed and lubed the guide pins. It wore a pad down to metal. Glad I saved all the old parts that were in good shape.
More soon.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.
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  #1283  
Old 11-28-2017, 08:34 AM
Frank Ziebert's Avatar
Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
I have a couple half done. I don't know if you would be willing to buy one. I can't give them away but I will send you a PM soon. I need to find a suitable shipping box for selling them later. I intended to hit that pretty hard soon. I have a jeep habit to support.
Depends on how much$$$. However it will be better than me doing all you have done for one application.
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1970 J2000(2500) Currently undergoing frame off resto
Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified
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  #1284  
Old 11-28-2017, 08:39 AM
Frank Ziebert's Avatar
Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
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Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
I have been cleaning parts large and small. I am patiently waiting for several things to show up to proceed on assembly of the heater and getting the transmission and transfer case in.
I dug out the wipers and related parts. This is a good example of the condition of most of what I am trying to fix. Lots of pitting in this wiper part. Pretty much a mess.



I blasted the surface off to open up all the pits. Then used Icing glazing putty to skim coat them. After a long time hand sanding with 100 to 220 then to 600 I covered them and another set that was not quite as bad with cerakote satin magnesium. I thought covering filler would cause problems requiring a second coat later. It went on without any issues at all. If this were regular paint I would be working on them again tomorrow. I will pick the best two and go for it. This is a darker shade than the satin nickel. I like this one.



The wiper transmission arms are all cleaned up and also ready to go. Same with the washer spray nozzle. New neoprene gaskets for that one. So that is done.
I dipped a few parts in Must For Rust today. Like the coat hanger hooks. They had surface rust. Before...



And after. I did nothing but soak them and wipe them off with a blue paper shop towel. Amazing.. I will spray a light pass with MC160 high gloss clear to seal them for years of use.



And I wished I took a before shot of the transfer case shifter boot ring. It was worse than the coat hooks. I already cleared it.



I got several other things done. But I had to divert my fun to fix the wifes car. The road salt ceased up a brake caliper. I just put new brakes on last summer. And freed and lubed the guide pins. It wore a pad down to metal. Glad I saved all the old parts that were in good shape.
More soon.


After running in deep muddy water for a day I also had a caliper seize up on my LJ. Sure makes a lot of smoke when you don't notice it. Vortec makes so much power I didn't feel it until the tail gunner in our group said he smelled burning brakes. He was a quarter of a mile behind me
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1970 J2000(2500) Currently undergoing frame off resto
Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified
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  #1285  
Old 11-28-2017, 07:46 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
Sadie has H4 E code Hella headlights. One has a rock chip hole in it and the reflector is delaminating from water intrusion. So I ordered a kit from Susquehanna Motor Sports as they are a great place to get stuff like this. I also ordered some 40 amp relays and a relay base to do the conversion right. It was late at 2AM and I ordered the wrong parts. I was super tired. Will from Susquehanna calls me today to verify that is what I really wanted. Nope, he set me up with the correct parts and also helped me find ceramic plugs to graft on to the bulb connectors. Sadies plugs were heat damaged and needed something done. Ceramic plugs will not be affected by heat. I could not find them last night. I told him all about Sadie.
Then Will being a former Rally car guy tells me about an old wagoneer chase vehicle that everyone called "The Bog". The bog was legendary. They used it to run fuel and recovery to rally cars back in the day. It even had custom license plates that said "The Bog". I told him more about Sadie. He wants a picture...

Will went above and beyond to call and ask me if my order was correct. No one does that anymore. If anyone wants to upgrade from the very inadequate DOT certified USA headlights to a European E code light that works, and are way more safe to drive with, please check Susquehanna first. E code lights are not DOT approved. But they put light where it should be. And they are more affordable than ever now. Avoid the Vision Plus lights. They are not better. E code all the way!!!

http://www.rallylights.com/hella-7-r...kit-h6024.html

It is finally snowing again.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 11-28-2017 at 07:51 PM.
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  #1286  
Old 11-29-2017, 07:56 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
Well I am waiting on the headlight parts to land the buckets. I did have to drive to town today for many boxes of bolts. This onesy twosy bolt buying was not working. Too slow. I have been attaching stuff as fast as it clean's up.
The firewall pad fits and looks really nice.



I put some flexible non hardening caulk strips down before the dash just like the original grey stuff. I did roll it out till it was about 1/2 inch wide. Less stress on the dash metal.



Here is the Eastwood part number. I used a lot of this stuff on the rear quarters where the old grey stuff was removed. I am happy with it.



And the Dash is in. It is a bit dusty despite being covered. I will clean it later with a damp rag and be careful not to scratch it. My lovely wife helped me install it. Not a scratch in sight thanks to her help.



I was just checking on where in the heck was my heater seal material. Then the UPS driver pulled up. Of all three samples the 3/4 thick one is not usable for what I wanted because it is way to stiff. I will save it for something else.

The 1/2 inch one seemed like it will work great. Just a bit stiffer than the original seal it should work well.



It is nice and flexible.



The part number and where to get it. Although I did order this from Grainger. One might try Marian. PSA stands for pressure sensitive adhesive.



The thinner stuff should work for the interior heater doors and the bulkhead seals.



Here is the part number. All these samples were purchased from Grainger, not MSC. I would prefer something a little softer, but it will work fine.



The heater can go in as soon as I cut out and apply each seal. When I was younger my dad had a gasket press. What I would not give for that now. Anyway, So far so good.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.
Reply With Quote
  #1287  
Old 12-02-2017, 09:32 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
My computer hard drive took a dump and is toast. I am trying to post using two different laptops that are not working right. I think I got it.

So the heater has been rebuilt. Using (1) 1/2 X 12 x 12 sheet of foam part number # 13C452 for making one seal and (1) 1/8 X 12 x 12 sheet part number # 1DTW8 for making 5 door and bulkhead seals both from Grainger, I have a good unit now.

The 1/2 thick seal worked great for the fan housing to heater core housing seal.



The thinner 1/8 thick stuff was perfect. It was hard to get the sticky backed stuff in place correctly on the interior doors. But if you fold back just a little of the removable adhesive cover you can place it then peel the rest off once you are happy with where it is on the door. The interior door is shut here in this next picture.
It seals well being 1/8 thick. Here is a bulkhead seal in place also.



These are the 5 pieces you need. A 12 x 12 sheet will do all of them with careful layout.



I did not want to cut the heater core hold down straps. I used two pieces of stiff rubber to make up the gap. I also bedded the heater core on to foam strips to seal better and make a soft connection.



I used the 1/2 inch thick foam for sealing the inlet and outlet ports. Now all the air will go where it is supposed to.



I tested the diaphrams with a small piece of tygon tubing. Everything works great and holds vacuum.



The doors shut with a nice thump and seal all the way around. My wife helped me land it in the rig. It looks good and fits well.



The outside. The foam seal material was just about perfect in thickness and density. I believe it is rated for higher temperatures also. So I can call this done.



I hope this posts OK. I need to repair one of these laptops to work better.

More soon.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 12-02-2017 at 09:44 PM.
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  #1288  
Old 12-03-2017, 08:13 AM
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Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 is offline
Cherokee Outlaw
 
Join Date: Jan 10, 2006
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 6,972
Great write-up on the heater box/ducting! I'll have to save this for when I do mine.
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1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - 4" lift, 33x12.5x15
AMC 360 - 4180, TFI, Headers, Dual Exhaust
TH400 - Shift Kit, Deep Pan, Aux Cooler
D20 - Twin Stick'd
F D44 - 3.54, Open
R D44 - 3.54, Lock'd

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
the best advice on the thread.
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  #1289  
Old 12-04-2017, 09:53 AM
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Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
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Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 418
So I should just ship you my heater box
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1970 J2000(2500) Currently undergoing frame off resto
Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified
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  #1290  
Old 12-04-2017, 08:13 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
Certainly. I will have it done in about 20 minutes. I am still working on your firewall pad. I am also having some significant computer problems. I am on a borrowed hard drive from a broken laptop with windows 8. I absolutely cannot find the SD card slot as a drive anywhere. I have never liked Windows 8. And never will. It is set up like it is a phone menu. Stupid.

So for anyone who is planning on rebuilding the heater. I used a gasket punch set that went up to 1 inch, a steel ruler straight edge, a box knife and a stout pair of very sharp scissors. The punch set was the only way to make good inner radius corners. That neoprene is a bear to cut straight.

So I ran into the Fed Ex guy on the road today and relieved him of a torque converter from Monster Transmission. As soon as I got home I filled it and parked it on the transmission. The transmission is in and bolted up. The front seal was as brittle as glass and shattered when I pried it out. I installed a fresh flexible seal and it for sure would have leaked if I had not done that.

I am also cleaning up all the dash knobs and heater controls. None of the switch bezels are usable. The wiper and headlight switch and blank dash plugs etc are pitted and look bad. I have "borrowed" nice replacements from the other rigs. And I actually found one correct beige wiper knob in my stash to replace the cracked one on Sadie. I also found a lighter and socket to install. I get lucky sometimes. I still need a column shifter knob that is beige. None of the plastics I bought to make one or spares I have match.
One cleaned up piece at a time is getting installed. It is getting better every day.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.
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  #1291  
Old 12-04-2017, 09:23 PM
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Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
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Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 418
Oh Al you don't understand. I want it cleaned and painted and, and, and,


We got home Friday. Jeep is still sitting where I unhooked it. My back has pretty much kept me in bed or the recliner for over a week now. Starting to get better but sitting (laying) around is driving me up a wall.
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1970 J2000(2500) Currently undergoing frame off resto
Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified
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  #1292  
Old 12-06-2017, 05:39 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
You need some summer heat to paint Frank. Patience is a virtue. Who ever said that is full of it

So I found a plastic chrome plater that is both close by and very reasonable. I just returned from a visit there. I left fender reflector frames, glove box door emblems, and arm rest ends for my build. Owner Glenn showed me his vacuum plating chamber and some vintage dash panels inside that had just been plated. They were stunning. He knows what he is doing. They were truly beautiful. I will post a picture Friday when I get my computer issues fixed and my monthly data allotment is reset. I used up 2 Gig more than normal with my hard drive crash and attempts to fix it.

Here is the plating shops link. You will be hard pressed to find anyone back East that will have better pricing.

http://www.gcartrim.com/

I did manage to get the transmission and transfer case in. I am cleaning and loading up the dash with nice looking parts. Pictures soon. It looks great.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 12-06-2017 at 05:49 PM.
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  #1293  
Old 12-08-2017, 06:21 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
Well I am still having computer problems. I hope to have this resolved soon.

I have been cleaning up the best parts I can find between three different FSJ's.

So far it is looking great. I am oil soaking the coil rod housings for the heater and vent controls. When I am sure I got oil inside the housings to make the actions smoother, I will degrease and install the parts. Here is what is in so far.



The knobs were so dirty you could not tell what color they were. I used mothers chrome and aluminum polish to get the grime off. The wiper and headight bezel came from the 70 J truck and the 70 wagoneer outside. Sadies original ones were pitted beyond help.



And I mentioned posting a picture of the plated parts still in the plating chamber at Gcar. Glenn showed me the process and it was pretty cool. These go to a couple different vintage cars. I am looking forward to the parts coming back done. At this point this is the best solution for my project.



Have a good weekend.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.
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  #1294  
Old 12-10-2017, 12:00 AM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 09, 2000
Location: New Haven, CT
Posts: 6,066
Fantastic work, as usual.
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1963 J300 Swivel frame
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  #1295  
Old Yesterday, 10:18 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 1,583
Thanks Mikel. I aim to please the FSJ eye.

So with a slow week behind me I spent the day continuing to clean up dash stuff. It took three heater controls to make one good one. And it still has some cosmetic flaws. The ones on Ebay were junk and all of them were worse off and horrendously overpriced as usual. I switched knobs, switches cover plates and landed it in the dash.

What a pile of stuff.



Not too bad I guess.



I polished the trim pieces around the speaker and speedo cluster. And I had one of those new NOS gauge clusters from Istanbul Turkey on ebay. The problem with them is they are in Kilometers and not MPH. So even the gauges are a bit different and the circuit board is also. I have one in a Jeepster here and it won't begin to read till you hit 25-30 MPH.
So all I really ended up using was the very nice face off of it. But first all of the original parts needed cleaning up. I should probably include that I did not use Sadies cluster. It like everything else was to darn trashed to bother with. Maybe some day when you can't find this stuff anymore, but for now I had a low mile cluster that got a rebuild. First I zeroed the odometer.
It took me a while to figure out how. My CJ was easy. This one was not.

Undo this clip and lift out the number assembly.



This is tricky to explain. Put the roll in your left hand and use your fingers to support it. Only try to keep the first tab in place. Let the rest rotate where they want. Start rolling the gear backwards till it stops, jog the first tab back and forth while trying to rotate the assembly backwards. Land the zero in the middle like this. Keep doing that till the zero comes around to here.



Keep the zero there and the tab also. Repeat with the next tab and bring the zero around to the same position. You will have to jog the tabs after the unit will not roll backwards anymore. Jog it and apply light force and it will skip allowing you to bring the zero around. Do this for all of them keeping the tabs aligned for dropping it back in the assembly. Those tabs need to lock on to the frame. Put the clip back on and you are done.

I found the best paint for the needles. It is a Parma product for lexan RC car bodies, and I don't know if it is still available. Here is the part number. 2 OZ is a lifetime supply of needle paint. It is called faskolor.



Repainting the needles. Take it easy on the speedo needle. It is balanced and excess paint will change readings.



0000 steel wool on the circuit board. The circuit board on the Istanbul clusters will not fit the original Jeep housing. But Partsdud4x4 sells a replacement for the USA Jeep clusters. He has great products.

http://stores.partsdude4x4.net/electrical/

This one was in excellent shape.



Got it all buttoned up with a new faceplate. In it went.
So the vent controls. One was pretty much ceased up. I don't have a correct colored replacement. So Coil up the rod housing and elevate it off the rags so the oil stays on the housing. This opens up the metal coil housing and allows oil to soak in. I soaked it with 30 weight a couple times for two days, and then degreased it before installing it. It is now as smooth as butter with 30 WT oil on the inside.



How it all looks.



Another shot.



I am still cleaning up the speaker grille and need to redo the emblem. And I found a steering column surround that was near perfect. One minor flaw and it will tie in just super with the glove box door clock. Sadies original surround was a black split one. There is a green NOS split surround on Ebay right now for 100 big ones. It could be painted or chrome plated at Gcar.
It is almost assembled enough to sit on the floor and make vroom vroom sounds.



Tomorrow is a day on door panels. I have a class on the laguna laser cutter.

More soon.
__________________
------------------------------------
It's gonna snow any minute now!

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1953 Willy's wagon
And a few more providing high end housing for mice.
Jeepers Disease, The uneasy feeling of being on dry pavement.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : Yesterday at 10:25 PM.
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  #1296  
Old Today, 12:04 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 794
Looks like new.

You into bikes? There's a cable luber that clamps over the end of the outer cable and seals the inner. Has a small hole for inserting the straw of your prefered lube. Squirt until it comes out the other end. Can flush with carb cleaner first.

I was wondering about using graphite "paint" on these cables with the aforementioned luber. It's pretty thin but still might load up inside the sheath.
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