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  #21  
Old 12-30-2006, 11:45 PM
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malodin malodin is offline
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lol, crazy, that just confused me a little more, any chance you have some pictures of the different links your talking about? i think what your saying is, the dpa connects to the passenger side "flat top"(which is on my jeep but not my chevy 44) and then use the stock chevy arm going from both fronts of the nuckles? what is needed to mill the top of the arm? ive got a machine lathe and a 3way axis mill at work(if i knew what to do i could do it at work).
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1977 CHEROKEE CHIEF, 401, SOA FRONT SITTING ON HD44 4.10'S, TH400/D300 COMBO, 14BFF REAR WITH TT'S FAB'S REAR SHAKLE FLIP KIT, RB'S BRONCO TANK MOD. 35'S
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  #22  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:03 AM
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Crazy_Jeepman Crazy_Jeepman is offline
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LOL I knew I was going to confuse that all up! LOL

Here is a pic of what I am talking about on the front of a Chevy

http://www.shakerbuilt.com/parts.html
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  #23  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:07 AM
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would i be able to use the jeeps stock rod(cross over part) or would i have to get a new rod as well to go from the dpa to the nuckle
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1977 CHEROKEE CHIEF, 401, SOA FRONT SITTING ON HD44 4.10'S, TH400/D300 COMBO, 14BFF REAR WITH TT'S FAB'S REAR SHAKLE FLIP KIT, RB'S BRONCO TANK MOD. 35'S
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  #24  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malodin
would i be able to use the jeeps stock rod(cross over part) or would i have to get a new rod as well to go from the dpa to the nuckle

Nope you would need a custom drag link (From Pitman Arm to new steering arm location) However you will be able to use the Chevy stock center link (wheel to wheel link)
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  #25  
Old 12-31-2006, 01:47 AM
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ok that makes sense, so no matter what im gonna have to speen at least 150 to get it going, any threads or any info you have on making a drag link? i.e. what i would need to do it? ive got all the tools i think to create the draglink mill the flat top nuckles etc.

also whats up with the 10degree correction thing?
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1977 CHEROKEE CHIEF, 401, SOA FRONT SITTING ON HD44 4.10'S, TH400/D300 COMBO, 14BFF REAR WITH TT'S FAB'S REAR SHAKLE FLIP KIT, RB'S BRONCO TANK MOD. 35'S

Last edited by malodin : 12-31-2006 at 01:51 AM.
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  #26  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:35 PM
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Man, I just built two systems the other day for this exact set-up. I am shipping one out on Tuesday but I will get some shots of the other before and after it gets installed. I am using 1.5"x.250 DOM with 7/8" hiems rated at 50000lbs. The kits are going on a CJ and a YJ that have converted to FSJ NT D44s but are still using the stock spring mounts on the axle. There will be a draglink length difference but that's about it. These are not a high steer set-up but do increase the strength of the steering considerabley. Pictures, I know. soon come
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  #27  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:51 PM
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lifenajeep, that would be cool i would love to see some pictures.
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  #28  
Old 01-08-2007, 05:45 PM
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AlsChopShop AlsChopShop is offline
 
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can we get some breakdowns on crossover steering solutions?

i'm back in the SOA game and i don't have that kind of cash for full hi-steer, i'll settle for x-over.

what are the cost break downs on just going crossover? just trying to get a parts list going as i start scrounging for cheap parts.

Al
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  #29  
Old 01-16-2007, 04:17 PM
Twozerofour Twozerofour is offline
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Is it possible to run a soa, with out a cross over or high steer. or are there clearnce issues with the leaves and steering links. I am aware of bump steer issues ect. with ghetto steering set ups. 81waggy.
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  #30  
Old 01-17-2007, 09:40 PM
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twozerofour, i believe it is possible only to say move it out of the garage and around the corner, but definately not safe or plausible to drive on the road, as the angles the arms would be at would be so great that either you would have no turning radius or it would be extrememely squirly and quick steering(dont quote me on that though as i have not done my soa yet)
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  #31  
Old 01-18-2007, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twozerofour
Is it possible to run a soa, with out a cross over or high steer. or are there clearnce issues with the leaves and steering links. I am aware of bump steer issues ect. with ghetto steering set ups. 81waggy.
from what i've read, even with a 6" DPA the drag link will hit the spring on right turns.

Al
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  #32  
Old 01-18-2007, 09:16 AM
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You will hit the spring. However, I did run mine for quite a while with only a 4" DPA. It still hit the spring, but it worked. I did not even have that bad bumpsteer. I would just save up for the high steer if I were you though
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  #33  
Old 03-01-2007, 04:42 PM
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my 74 j-10 is sitting on axles from a 88 dodge ram (dana 44s) with a crossover steering that cost me under $50
STEERING ARM---first i took a 1x2 bar stock and notched it (you can see in the picture) then I drilled the 3 bolt holes the size of the tap hole then I clamped the arm to the knuckle and drilled the holes on through. Unclamped the arm tapped out the holes in the knuckle by hand (I think it was a 9/16-18 tap) then i drilled out the holes bigger in the arm to 9/16 so the bolts would fit through. Next i made the 1inch spacer out of another piece of stock and notched/drilled it to match.
DRAGLINK---the drag link is a modified stock draglink from my j-10. From the adjuster to the steering box is stock. I got another drag from the junkyard and cut the threads off and had it machined to have the threads go in the oppisite direction(so it could screw into the adjuster where the end used to go)Then but welded a tractor 3pt hitch hiem joint to it and then sleeved that and bolted it in place.
I THINK thats all I did and it seems to work fine but maybe I got lucky. There has not been any slack in the joints nor bolts that backed off.



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  #34  
Old 03-05-2007, 09:13 PM
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I thought I saw somewhere a diagram of what needs to be milled drilled and taped on a pass. side knuckle somewhere but cant find it anywhere now has anyone else seen it?
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  #35  
Old 03-05-2007, 09:42 PM
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malodin malodin is offline
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http://web.acsalaska.net/~cvandor/wilhelm/flattop.html

try this page, hes very open and answers questions. best page ive found so far.
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1977 CHEROKEE CHIEF, 401, SOA FRONT SITTING ON HD44 4.10'S, TH400/D300 COMBO, 14BFF REAR WITH TT'S FAB'S REAR SHAKLE FLIP KIT, RB'S BRONCO TANK MOD. 35'S
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  #36  
Old 03-06-2007, 12:50 PM
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That got me where iwas trying to go.Thanks
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  #37  
Old 04-25-2007, 08:57 PM
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malodin malodin is offline
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id like to keep this going, see some more pictures of peoples steering setup, im in the process of milling/drilling/tapping my nuckles(and yes i will be able to do it on a regular basis for people here in a few months) and then i will be making some highsteer arms and would like to know more info.
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1977 CHEROKEE CHIEF, 401, SOA FRONT SITTING ON HD44 4.10'S, TH400/D300 COMBO, 14BFF REAR WITH TT'S FAB'S REAR SHAKLE FLIP KIT, RB'S BRONCO TANK MOD. 35'S
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  #38  
Old 04-29-2007, 08:35 PM
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Jim Blair Jim Blair is offline
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Rig and Axle Type: '84 J10 with Ford D44 front
Type and Vendor: High steer arms from Ott Industries in British Columbia, Canada (originally I used Off Road Design arms, but they allowed the tierods to hit the leafs)
Parts Used: Stock tierods and ceneterlink from the Ford and draglink from the J10
Price: Bought in '02 and not sure how much anymore
Procedure: If you run a Chev or Dodge axle from the '70s, toss the boomerang from the LH knuckle (and duck!) then have the other knuckle planed and drilled mirror image (if it's flat top) The arms bolt directly to the knuckles and the Ford centerlink bolted to the arms. The J10 draglink bolted to the centerlink with the stock Jeep RH tierod.

I have http://ottindustries.com arms on my drilled J20 flat tops (on a Ford D44 open knuckle front axle from a '76 F350 highboy crewcab so I have LH drop front axle and it bolted directly in) with all (otherwise) stock steering components. The Swaybar plates became my shock mounts and with new Ubolts, the nuts face upwards, so no dragging (doing the same to my '73 J4000 with a '76 J20 front axle swapped in when I get time)
I put new centering studs in, but I could have just rounded off the old one's nut and shortened the threads to fit in the centering holes.
The brakelines are extended ones for a '77 Blazer K20 and brakes (knuckles and calipers) are from a '76 J20.

My truck recently (with 4.0L under the hood)


OTT arms


Spring bolts inverted


Side view of OTT arms showing clearance from springs
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  #39  
Old 04-30-2007, 06:05 PM
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Jim, thanks thats helfpull as well, im working on building my own arms out of 1 3/4"x1 3/4 solid (something steel i imagine) and doing a step up similar to the ott design.
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  #40  
Old 05-09-2007, 09:51 PM
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here it is, my first milled drilled tapped knuckles ready to bolt onto my friends rig, pretty soon i will be making my own arms as well(these are koz offroad arms)







this last pic shows the difference between the factory gm 26.5 cone washer and koz offroad cone washer(which is just a tacoma screw product, or used to be it is now discontinued)

personally i dont see the need for the bigger conewasher the way these are bolted down and all, unless maybe someone is running 44's with hydraulic ram steering etc.... this first set of knuckles is going on a f250 with 39 irocks so we will see how they do.

once i get my reamer(either gm taper 26.5 or the tac screw conical washer taper) i will be making steering arms.
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1977 CHEROKEE CHIEF, 401, SOA FRONT SITTING ON HD44 4.10'S, TH400/D300 COMBO, 14BFF REAR WITH TT'S FAB'S REAR SHAKLE FLIP KIT, RB'S BRONCO TANK MOD. 35'S

Last edited by Jeepstress : 03-31-2010 at 10:41 AM.
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