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  #1  
Old 10-25-2010, 01:56 PM
wanderson wanderson is offline
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Permenantly removing roof rack

I'm thinking of removing the stock roof rack on my '87 Wagoneer, but not sure how's the best way to plug up the roof holes. I saw on someone's personal website that they had used nylon plugs & clear silicon when they replaced their stock roof rack with an aftermarket rack. The roof is rough n' rusty with a thick coat of rust preventer so any plug/patch isn't gonna make the roof look any worse. Anyone else tried this?
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2010, 02:11 PM
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p@55w0rd p@55w0rd is offline
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Plugs sound like a good temp fix... Can you share a link to the web site where you got the info?
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2010, 03:06 PM
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El_Diablo El_Diablo is offline
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thats how my wag is currently done... its a common trick for removing spoilers amongst the import crowd and does work as a good temporary fix
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:18 PM
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rmorit01 rmorit01 is offline
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Mine is "de-racked" too -- I just went to the local hardware store and looked for the caps that have a large "outside" cap and a smaller piece that goes into the holes.

Used small nylon plugs for the roof rack strips and screw holes.

All applied with silicone sealant -

Bob
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2010, 04:48 PM
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I had my holes welded up.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2010, 06:55 PM
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EBCIII EBCIII is offline
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My 77 Wag came that way. I plan on leaving it. IMHO I think it looks cleaner, Beale.
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:27 PM
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Bill Lawton Bill Lawton is offline
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Weld them up no leaks!!
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  #8  
Old 10-25-2010, 07:40 PM
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CutterN55 CutterN55 is offline
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I wanna pull mine off and weld it up too, but I'm kinda chicken. I go back and forth somedays liking it others I just can't stand it. I'll probably pull mine off, and take the real nice one (that is useless 9' in the air) off my Excursion and throw it on the Jeep in place of the stock one.

however I seal it up, I'm going to line the top with good textured bed liner that will hold up to a beating and to the elements and it will hide any imperfections caused by welding the holes up.
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  #9  
Old 10-26-2010, 06:49 AM
wanderson wanderson is offline
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plugs

I guess I was kinda hoping I could find some kind of roof rack hole plug kit like the ones you can get for Volvo wagons. Here's the link to the website that used the nylon plugs/silicon:

http://www.casscomm.com/~rollingm/wagoneer/main.htm

I'm still toying with the idea of getting new wellplugs, or whatever you call those gizmos that go in the holes and expand when you tighten them up, and just removing the roof rack and reusing the torx screws with washers, assuming I could find some stainless washers big enough to cover the 1/2" hole that will work with the torx screws.

There was also an earlier thread that mentioned fiberglass patch, probably the better permemant solution but my headliner is in decent shape so I don't plan to pull it anytime soon.
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  #10  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:12 AM
wanderson wanderson is offline
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well plugs

I stumbled across another forum discussing the same problem for a Nissan truck, someone posted this link to a parts warehouse website with a good selection of wellplugs:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/3214

never ordered from them before but they have a gi-normous selection of miscellaneous parts. Although their 1/2" wellplugs run about 8 or 9 bucks/10, and Team Grand Wagoneer has all 12 for $18. I may just order a new set from TGWagoneer and try the torx screw/washer fix. If I decide to put the rack back on, I'll at least have new plugs in the roof.
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  #11  
Old 10-26-2010, 11:52 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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I'm not not much into plastic plugs. If'n were me I'd inject silicone (black) into the holes. If ya get sloppy and get too much in it smooth it out with an ice cube. Silicone won't stick to ice like it does your finger. Works great for silicone, bathtub, window caulk etc. Nice smooth pro looking job. Ice works good, I take all my coffee cups I use on the boats and cover the bottom with 1/4" of silicone and smooth it with an ice cube. Looks good and great non skid for boat use.
Oh use black silicone for outdoor use.
The clear will be eaten by UV light in a year and leak. Black is unaffected by UV rays.
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2010, 12:25 PM
Topgun2mo Topgun2mo is offline
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I would stay away from silicone. Nothing for it to stick to(unless you make a large mound) and NOTHING sticks to cured silicone, not even silicone. Silicone contamination is a big no no in aerospace applications. For a no weld fix, concave the area and use a filler with metal in the base (Sand to metal first). If you want to retain the roof rack capability should you change your mind, fab up a couple of metal pieces to be held in place using a gasket or even something similar to the current rack mounting system.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2010, 08:13 PM
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86gwrhino 86gwrhino is offline
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We used 3m marine sealant and carriage bolts for the actual rack holes, and rivets and sealant for the rib holes.
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2010, 08:21 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderson
I'm still toying with the idea of getting new wellplugs, or whatever you call those gizmos that go in the holes and expand when you tighten them up, and just removing the roof rack and reusing the torx screws with washers, assuming I could find some stainless washers big enough to cover the 1/2" hole that will work with the torx screws.

They are called "wellnuts" and any good hardware store (Ace) should have them in stock.
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2010, 10:23 PM
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El_Diablo El_Diablo is offline
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i actually have a package of 25 NOS well nuts if anyone needs them.... enough to do a roof rack and air deflector and still have some spares

pm me if you're interested so the thread doesn't get to far off topic
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  #16  
Old 10-26-2010, 11:00 PM
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rmorit01 rmorit01 is offline
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This is how the "plastic" plugs work that i picked up from the local ace hardware for about .89 cents - they go into the old "well nut" holes

The outer piece is much bigger than the piece that fits in the old hole -- marine or automotive sealant around the edge and I have had no leaks for the last 7 months -

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