weird power window situation

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  • SOLSAKS
    304 AMC
    • Jul 25, 2016
    • 1781

    weird power window situation

    my power window must have heard me say it was stinky !

    all power windows have always worked fine, even tailgate.

    all of a sudden, my driver door switch would not operate passenger front window, but the pass door switch would work it,.....

    10 minutes later i try the pass side switch again, now it too does not work.

    any ideas from you guys who have experience with them ?

    ALSO, going to have some auto glass pros come in soon

    to remove all 4 power window motors ( and assembly if necessary )

    my plastic flex tracks are not broken but look original

    so was thinking of getting all 4 motors re-built ,..........and installing new flex track.,....

    where is the best place to buy flex track ? are all created equal ?

    some seem to have a metal piece in one end, others do not.

    P.S. (if there are reliable motors already re built, tell me best source )

    advice needed.

    dave in NC
    SOLSAKS - dave
    1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
    1982 J-10 Fleetside
    1988 grand wagoneer
    2004 RUBICON jeep
    Benson, NC
  • joe
    • Apr 28, 2000
    • 22392

    #2
    Before you go replacing window motors ($$$) spend some time diagnosing the problem. Check for connections, cleanliness and function of the switches. Also check integrity of the wiring inside the doors and the section of harness that goes from the body into the doors. I avoid cars/trucks with PW's but have owned a few. Never yet had to replace a motor but have had to clean-up or replace switches and replace broken/chaffed wires between the body and door.
    Do yourself a favor while inside the doors, clean out the drains.
    joe
    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

    Comment

    • SOLSAKS
      304 AMC
      • Jul 25, 2016
      • 1781

      #3
      joe, thanx

      i am ignorant about wiring, voltage, etc

      but i can do a visual inspection as far as gunk on connections
      and bent, worn, burnt, butchered wiring...

      ...and i have not seen any of that.

      if i did want to spray elec. connectors, etc to get them x-tra clean
      what is best ?

      thanx
      dave
      SOLSAKS - dave
      1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
      1982 J-10 Fleetside
      1988 grand wagoneer
      2004 RUBICON jeep
      Benson, NC

      Comment

      • babywag
        out of order
        • Jun 08, 2005
        • 10288

        #4
        the switches are a poor design IMHO, they should be sealed/protected better.
        get some electrical contact cleaner and soak the switches & connectors.
        the whole door harness can be unplugged/removed from doors.
        the switches have decades of corrosion and old nasty grease inside.
        soaking them overnight will do wonders.

        window motors rarely fail...99% it’s wiring/switches.
        Tony
        88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

        Comment

        • ShagWagon
          350 Buick
          • Apr 10, 2016
          • 871

          #5
          You can take the switches apart and clean with marvel mystery oil, qtip, metal pick, sandpaper. You can see all the buildup in there. Then put back together with some di electric grease.

          Take em apart inside a box so you don't lose any of the very small pieces with a precision flat screwdriver. Just go slow. NP. You will see all the burnt looking metals. Clean em up and should be good.
          87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

          Comment

          • SOLSAKS
            304 AMC
            • Jul 25, 2016
            • 1781

            #6
            thanx shagwagon
            i just sprayed with elec connection cleaner

            but i have not taken the pieces apart

            i will see if i feel confident enuff to do that.

            thanx again.


            dave
            SOLSAKS - dave
            1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
            1982 J-10 Fleetside
            1988 grand wagoneer
            2004 RUBICON jeep
            Benson, NC

            Comment

            • ShagWagon
              350 Buick
              • Apr 10, 2016
              • 871

              #7
              It's not that bad.

              Maybe try one of the back ones that's a single first before diving into the front if your hesitant. They can be totally broke down and put back together again. They're rocker switches with copper rockers with small springs and contact needles. If they have corrosion on the outside pin connectors then they're probably burned and gunked up inside as well. They just pry open with a precision screwdriver or something.
              87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

              Comment

              • SOLSAKS
                304 AMC
                • Jul 25, 2016
                • 1781

                #8
                10-4
                i did take the black pods
                out of the rectangular metal housing on pass side front
                but did not go any further

                the outside pins were in great shape on both driver and pass.
                with only one or two pins having a little green corrosion at base

                wiggled toggles
                and sprayed behind those
                as well as the holes on the plastic connectors from
                harness that slide onto pins

                dried in sun, re-assembled and walla,...they work again

                thanx for the advice....a big help

                dave
                SOLSAKS - dave
                1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
                1982 J-10 Fleetside
                1988 grand wagoneer
                2004 RUBICON jeep
                Benson, NC

                Comment

                • ShagWagon
                  350 Buick
                  • Apr 10, 2016
                  • 871

                  #9
                  Sometimes I just put some MMO cleaner on the pins and wiggles them on and off the electrical sockets, in and out a few times, wipe off the crud, put some more cleaner on it , repeat a few times till it wipes clean.
                  87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

                  Comment

                  • babywag
                    out of order
                    • Jun 08, 2005
                    • 10288

                    #10
                    Originally posted by SOLSAKS
                    thanx shagwagon
                    i just sprayed with elec connection cleaner

                    but i have not taken the pieces apart

                    i will see if i feel confident enuff to do that.

                    thanx again.


                    dave
                    That's really all you need to do/best way. Anything like MMO/WD40 will just promote crud to stick/build up again.
                    Electrical contact cleaner dissolves the crud, and as you noted they work again. The other stuff may do the same, but I prefer elec. cleaner.
                    Sometimes it just takes a couple good soakings to get 'em nice & clean.
                    Tony
                    88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                    Comment

                    • SOLSAKS
                      304 AMC
                      • Jul 25, 2016
                      • 1781

                      #11
                      10-4 thanx to all who replied.

                      dave
                      SOLSAKS - dave
                      1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
                      1982 J-10 Fleetside
                      1988 grand wagoneer
                      2004 RUBICON jeep
                      Benson, NC

                      Comment

                      • ShagWagon
                        350 Buick
                        • Apr 10, 2016
                        • 871

                        #12
                        [QUOTE=babywag]That's really all you need to do/best way. Anything like MMO/WD40 will just promote crud to stick/build up again.
                        Electrical contact cleaner dissolves the crud, and as you noted they work again. The other stuff may do the same, but I prefer elec. cleaner.
                        Sometimes it just takes a couple good soakings to get 'em nice & clean.[/QUOTE

                        I own a electronics repair and restoration business for 20+ years. Marvel Mystery Oil we use above all to clean electrical contacts and it works better than anything else we've ever tried. It dissolves electrical corrosion without damaging other parts and is harmless to plastics and helps preserve against future corrosion. It's cheap, and most people already have some on the shelf.

                        Good stuff Maynard
                        87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

                        Comment

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