hey guys quick qeustion. when i drive the waggy short or long trip when coming to the end. i park and shut it off it rumbles for a second or two as if its still burning gas... dieseling? its called... what causes this and is it bad....
still rumbling once i shut her down
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Typically carbon build up will cause deiseling. If you still have the idle solinoid, check that it's working, it's supposed to prevent deiseling. A slightly open throttle blade and hot combustion chamber (like glowing carbon) will cause it.OI!IIII!IO "I like fun" Eddie Ott
Clawed 90 GW
Slightly off stock
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Yes joe I think you got it. It seems to idle pretty high in park, around. 1000 rpm, how can I lower the idle speed correctly.South Jersey... 1989 Grand Wagoneer. Building to be prepared. because in the end.. The Jeep is gonna be the last one standing!! CB Channel 4 "Pipewrench"
"I think that things a jeep...."
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Bumping really old thread
I started deiseling about a month back. Tried Se Foam with no improvement. Setting timing again. 14 sound about right for a 360 with HEI ignition? Was going to check the idle on my 4 barrel Edlebrock carb after that.1980 Wagoneer Limited "Prissyish" Sold
1972 Wagoneer Butter Scotch Gold restoring
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For now, suggest you leave it in drive when you shut it off, then go to park. Probably enough drag to prevent dieseling.
I would start by leaning out the idle mixture (best lean idle) and making sure your idle RPM is in spec. Also move the vacuum advance from manifold to ported vacuum for less advance at idle. The original carb may have had an idle stop solenoid that closed the throttle fully when the key is off. This was intended to prevent run-on.Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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I like TGREESE's comment. See what port your vacuum advance on distributor is attached to. If you've changed from the stock set up, you won't be using the CTO or Non-Linear valve thing. If you have the stock setup, might be more complicated.
I have never had luck with ported vacuum on vac advance. Always used manifold vac. The CTO controls what is sent to the vac advance on the distributor depending on coolant temp. I think if it's cold, it lets manifold vac go to vac advance. If warm, it lets the ported vac go to vac advance.
Others could chime in. It's a Jeep thing and I don't understand!My Stable:
1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, 5.9L, 4x4, Auto (newest project)
1997 Volkswagen Cabrio, 2.0L, Manual
2005 Kia Sportage, 2.7L, Auto
2006 Toyota Sienna, 3.3L, Auto
2018 Toyota RAV4, 2.5L, Auto
Recent projects (no longer with us)
1987 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L, 4X4, Auto
1967 GMC 910, 283V8, 4SPD (RIP)
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Originally posted by 67GMCI like TGREESE's comment. See what port your vacuum advance on distributor is attached to. If you've changed from the stock set up, you won't be using the CTO or Non-Linear valve thing. If you have the stock setup, might be more complicated.
I have never had luck with ported vacuum on vac advance. Always used manifold vac. The CTO controls what is sent to the vac advance on the distributor depending on coolant temp. I think if it's cold, it lets manifold vac go to vac advance. If warm, it lets the ported vac go to vac advance.
Others could chime in. It's a Jeep thing and I don't understand!1980 Wagoneer Limited "Prissyish" Sold
1972 Wagoneer Butter Scotch Gold restoring
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