still rumbling once i shut her down

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  • NJBattleWagon334
    232 I6
    • Apr 04, 2014
    • 133

    still rumbling once i shut her down

    hey guys quick qeustion. when i drive the waggy short or long trip when coming to the end. i park and shut it off it rumbles for a second or two as if its still burning gas... dieseling? its called... what causes this and is it bad....
    South Jersey... 1989 Grand Wagoneer. Building to be prepared. because in the end.. The Jeep is gonna be the last one standing!! CB Channel 4 "Pipewrench"


    "I think that things a jeep...."
  • joe
    • Apr 28, 2000
    • 22392

    #2
    Not a good thing but not instantly terminal either. There are other causes but most common cause is just idle speed set too high.
    joe
    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

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    • rockrollin
      258 I6
      • Apr 19, 2012
      • 287

      #3
      Typically carbon build up will cause deiseling. If you still have the idle solinoid, check that it's working, it's supposed to prevent deiseling. A slightly open throttle blade and hot combustion chamber (like glowing carbon) will cause it.
      OI!IIII!IO "I like fun" Eddie Ott
      Clawed 90 GW
      Slightly off stock

      Comment


      • #4
        Vacuum leaks will do it too. If the motor is hot enough to "diesel" fire fuel and has a hot spot it will, unless there isn't enough air to do so.
        Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.

        Comment

        • NJBattleWagon334
          232 I6
          • Apr 04, 2014
          • 133

          #5
          Yes joe I think you got it. It seems to idle pretty high in park, around. 1000 rpm, how can I lower the idle speed correctly.
          South Jersey... 1989 Grand Wagoneer. Building to be prepared. because in the end.. The Jeep is gonna be the last one standing!! CB Channel 4 "Pipewrench"


          "I think that things a jeep...."

          Comment

          • joe
            • Apr 28, 2000
            • 22392

            #6
            Don't know the specs for an 89 but with trans in N on a fully warmed up motor, solenoid wire disconnected should be ballpark around the 500-600rpm range? Use the curb idle set screw on the linkage.
            joe
            "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

            Comment

            • deckside
              258 I6
              • May 02, 2015
              • 378

              #7
              Bumping really old thread

              I started deiseling about a month back. Tried Se Foam with no improvement. Setting timing again. 14 sound about right for a 360 with HEI ignition? Was going to check the idle on my 4 barrel Edlebrock carb after that.
              1980 Wagoneer Limited "Prissyish" Sold
              1972 Wagoneer Butter Scotch Gold restoring

              Comment

              • tgreese
                • May 29, 2003
                • 11682

                #8
                For now, suggest you leave it in drive when you shut it off, then go to park. Probably enough drag to prevent dieseling.

                I would start by leaning out the idle mixture (best lean idle) and making sure your idle RPM is in spec. Also move the vacuum advance from manifold to ported vacuum for less advance at idle. The original carb may have had an idle stop solenoid that closed the throttle fully when the key is off. This was intended to prevent run-on.
                Tim Reese
                Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                Comment

                • deckside
                  258 I6
                  • May 02, 2015
                  • 378

                  #9
                  Got rid of the deiseling by bumping initial timing to 17....picked up some pinging under load/ uphill though
                  Last edited by deckside; 12-05-2020, 08:08 PM.
                  1980 Wagoneer Limited "Prissyish" Sold
                  1972 Wagoneer Butter Scotch Gold restoring

                  Comment

                  • 67GMC
                    232 I6
                    • Mar 13, 2016
                    • 83

                    #10
                    I like TGREESE's comment. See what port your vacuum advance on distributor is attached to. If you've changed from the stock set up, you won't be using the CTO or Non-Linear valve thing. If you have the stock setup, might be more complicated.

                    I have never had luck with ported vacuum on vac advance. Always used manifold vac. The CTO controls what is sent to the vac advance on the distributor depending on coolant temp. I think if it's cold, it lets manifold vac go to vac advance. If warm, it lets the ported vac go to vac advance.

                    Others could chime in. It's a Jeep thing and I don't understand!
                    My Stable:
                    1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer, 5.9L, 4x4, Auto (newest project)

                    1997 Volkswagen Cabrio, 2.0L, Manual
                    2005 Kia Sportage, 2.7L, Auto
                    2006 Toyota Sienna, 3.3L, Auto
                    2018 Toyota RAV4, 2.5L, Auto

                    Recent projects (no longer with us)
                    1987 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 4.0L, 4X4, Auto
                    1967 GMC 910, 283V8, 4SPD (RIP)

                    Comment

                    • deckside
                      258 I6
                      • May 02, 2015
                      • 378

                      #11
                      Originally posted by 67GMC
                      I like TGREESE's comment. See what port your vacuum advance on distributor is attached to. If you've changed from the stock set up, you won't be using the CTO or Non-Linear valve thing. If you have the stock setup, might be more complicated.

                      I have never had luck with ported vacuum on vac advance. Always used manifold vac. The CTO controls what is sent to the vac advance on the distributor depending on coolant temp. I think if it's cold, it lets manifold vac go to vac advance. If warm, it lets the ported vac go to vac advance.

                      Others could chime in. It's a Jeep thing and I don't understand!
                      I hear ya, Im using manifold vac. Running HEI distributer and Eddelbrock 1406 Carb.
                      1980 Wagoneer Limited "Prissyish" Sold
                      1972 Wagoneer Butter Scotch Gold restoring

                      Comment

                      • deckside
                        258 I6
                        • May 02, 2015
                        • 378

                        #12
                        Premium gas seems to have sorted it out but this is a relatively new development and I sure would not mind going back to regular.
                        1980 Wagoneer Limited "Prissyish" Sold
                        1972 Wagoneer Butter Scotch Gold restoring

                        Comment

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