LS swap fuel fittings, this work?

[Chipflyer]

Planning my fuel line system for the J10 5.3 swap and have come up with the diagram below on a cold snowy day with nothing better to do. I have already added the blazer tank behind the axle and think I will use 3/8 steel lines with stainless hose on both ends for both pressure and return. I made the little diagram just to help me see it properly and maybe even order all the correct stuff the first time. I would love for anyone to comment, approve, disapprove or offer a cheaper, better solution or recommend something I'm overlooking.
Thanks

Jeff

[babywag]

Do a google search there are some people that have had issues w/ the russell fuel rail fittings coming off.

Dorman sells both metal and plastic OE style connectors.
They also sell the tools, and line to make factory style plastic lines.
Or a shop could make the lines for you.

You can also have steel lines flared for the OE style connectors.

Your plan would work, but it isn't what I would do.
One the cost, 2 the issues w/ russell connectors, and 3 the inability to quick disconnect lines/filters like OE stuff.

Here's a pic of the Dorman stuff...I'm going to go with the metal connectors short piece of hose for flex, then my steel lines.

[Chipflyer]

The Russel fittings I was considering were the newer style that I don't believe (correct?) have the same issues as the earlier push lock style but they are expensive.
I am able to do my own 37 degree flares, I will look at the Dorman stuff as well, haven't bought anything yet, just trying to avoid multiple orders and extra parts and call on others experience's.
What I have shown in my little diagram is over $200 from summit, not counting the 3/8 steel line I already have.

[babywag]

I found some references online to people having issues w/ the new style as well.
It is the internet, but I've had engine/fuel fires before and it's not a pretty/fun thing to have happen.
Any chance no matter how slim makes me think twice about them.

That said, $200 = too rich for my blood. I'm on a pretty tight budget for my swap though.
Guessing, but I'll probably have $40-$50 into the fuel lines?
The connectors are only $5/plastic(pair) and $8/metal(each).
So total for just the connectors was ~$26

[Chipflyer]

Well thank you Tony, certainly looks like a good option. I was hesitant to use the nylon lines at first but will say that after doing a little research, people seem to like them and the price is MUCH better.
Thanks for the input.

Jeff

[ProTouring442]

Here's what you want: http://www.holley.com/assets/images/...ickConnect.pdf

[ProTouring442]

Though expensive, I will be using PTFE lined braided from front to back. By the time you add up all the required fitting to go to steel, then back to flexible line for the filter/regulator, then back to steel, then back to flexible to go to the engine, the PTFE lines aren't that much more expensive, if at all.

The Nylon lines are OK, but getting them to run nicely seems difficult. Plus, they are fairly easily damaged.

This is the PTFE lined braided line I am going to be using. By using line that is PTFE lined, it won't allow fuel to weep through the line and stink (and eventually destroy the line).

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX

[Chipflyer]

I have sat here today and thought, why would I use 3/8 for the return? Never thought much about it before but the return on the fuel rail is 5/16 and the fuel pumps return is 5/16. Whatever I use for the line, it will be 5/16.

Did a little checking and summit sells a 20ft piece of -6 an PTFE hose for $70 and fittings are almost $6 each. I may use that on the pressure side and nylon, which I think I can buy 5/16 for under $30 with fittings being around $5 for a pair on the return.

Anyway I have lots more to look at/research. I appreciate the input guys.
Thank you.

[babywag]

I didn't even catch that...

I already have the steel hard lines in place & TBI, so I just need to change it a little @ fuel rail end and for the different fuel filter I'll be using.

Starting from scratch would likely cost a little more.

If using braided hose, I don't see the need to adapt to AN on everything.
Just use the steel quick disconnects and a fuel injection clamp or find a shop that can crimp the hose?
Less cost and retain the quick disconnect...

[ProTouring442]

Remember though, when using lined hose (PTFE lined hose) that the ends are made to seal with the liner. If fuel is allowed to get between the liner and the hose (by using an incorrect connector) you can cause a leak. And leaks can cause fires.

[Chipflyer]

Part # SUM-220141 is the PTFE swivel hose end, $6! Really that's a pretty good price for a hose that you need not worry about todays crappy gas eating.

[ProTouring442]

Part # SUM-220141 is the PTFE swivel hose end, $6! Really that's a pretty good price for a hose that you need not worry about todays crappy gas eating.

That is cool...

I just have this creepy little suspicion the line and the ends are made in 中国, the bane of Hot Rodders and Car Builders everywhere, and otherwise known as China.

After reading up on the Chinese tilt steering column, sold through Johnny Law Motors and others, things made in China that also have serious safety applications scare me.