Dana 44 - New axle seals leaking

[Dave Jeeper]

There is a special type of welding that sprays hot metal onto a spinning shaft or axle to build it up and then after cooling the shaft or axle is machined back to its proper size. I don't know if it is available where you are or if it is cost effective.


I had a rear axle on a Jeep cherokee xj that kept leaking even though I kept having new seals put in (not nearly as bad a leak as yours). I finally gave up on it and presumed that the axle housing was bent. I got another used complete axle and that fixed my problem.



On your axle I am wondering if the seal is fitting into the axle housing properly. You can pull the axle shaft, then try tapping a seal into the housing without the shaft. If it fits tight, then remove that seal and you have eliminated another variable for the cost of a seal.


Also, make sure that the retaining plate is on correctly. I believe that there may be a raised bit on one side of the plate that is supposed to push the seal into the housing, that raised bit should be touching the seal if the plate is installed correctly.


Lastly, the bearing retaining ring is removed by drilling a hole through it, but not deep enough to drill into the shaft. Then use a cold chisel to split the ring, again, don't damage the shaft. It may be possible to pull the bearing at that point without cutting it if you have a large enough shop press.


Dave

[J20 project]

Great advice, some I agree, some I don't, but....looking at your picture, with the deformation of the seal housing/ring....I would guess a poor installation...
When I install that type of seal and bearing....I start with, wiping the area that accepts the bearing and seal out....then, if I feel anything...just anything which is not precise and smooth, I will buff it or grind it with my air die grinder...

Once starting the install...of course you have to slide in until you feel the spines engage the carrier...and then move forward to where the seal starts....(the bearing starts further in).....I visually make sure that the seal housing/ring is square and ready to start in...then,,,the plate retainer comes against and starts the push in.....
Kinda looks to me that the seal housing/ring was tweeked going in allowing your oil to escape..

Sintering...as described/spraying material onto the surface requires much heat,,kinda like welding on the axle itself,I would not do it....

Find a axle shaft pard....just bite the bullet and get it..

J20 project

[Brynjminjones]

Thanks all for the advice.

Dave, that method of building the material back up sounds interesting, that's the kind of thing I think I first had in mind when inquiring about "welding it up".


J20 Project, the first installation was definitely messed up, probably through a combination of bad install and bent retaining plates.

The second installation with new seals went without a hitch, yet the seals are still leaking. That's how I've now discovered that the surface on the axle shaft is pitted so needs something doing. I even tried reinstalling with some RTV around the outer edge of the seal, but it made no difference as it's the inner edge that's leaking.

I'm not ready to drop $1000 on new shafts when there are other alternatives, so I've bought some sleeves and will be installing those over the next couple of weeks.

I'll let you all know on here how it goes

[Dave Jeeper]

Here's a link for anyone interested in learning about spray welding:

https://weldguru.com/spray-welding/

It is a welding process used for building up shafts that are worn. It is typically used on expensive equipment. The shaft needs to be machined afterward. I would not recommend mig or tig to fill pitting, you won't get a good result.



I think that the sleeves are a great idea. I wonder if you are supposed to use an oversize seal after installing the sleeve as the shaft diameter will increase. I had seen some engine output shaft sleeves that had a split in them. Since the engine only rotates in one direction, that is fine. A split sleeve for an axle would not be a good idea. When the axle turns in reverse, the sharp edge of the split would chew up the lip of the seal.


If the sleeve is not a tight fit, then it would pay to locktite it in place with low strength (purple) locktite. That will keep a loose sleeve from shfting on the shaft.


Good luck,


Dave

[wiley-moeracing]

The sleeve kit should include a new seal that is just for the kit, and yes, clean the surface of the axle shaft where it will go and apply red locktite then install sleeve, carefully, or you will be doing it again.

[J20 project]

a) too bad the spare shafts I have are wide track and b) too bad you are across the pond....makes things easier...good luck Jeeper.


J20 project

[Brynjminjones]

Thanks all for the luck, I'm going to take my time and hopefully we'll be good.

The "Speedi Sleeves" I've bought are very thin, so can supposedly be used with the standard seals.
I've got replacements in case the bad surface has chewed up my existing ones.

I've got one question:
Should I somehow build up the surface of the shaft where it's damaged beneath the sleeve?
I was thinking of maybe filling it with epoxy so the sleeve doesn't deform in that area.

What do you think?

[J20 project]

While I have to say I have not done it....it was suggested you press them on over a layer of red loctite, right?..

I personally would use a fair amount of emery cloth and clean the pressed surface on the axle shaft and make it really clean and shiny first. Hopefully knocking down any type of ridge that might be there


J20

[wiley-moeracing]

Just use the red loctite, clean the surface with some emery cloth a little just to remove any ridges. the sleeve is usually made out of stainless and is hard, will not deform on the shaft.

[Brynjminjones]

Perfect, thanks both! I was planning to clean it right up, then I'll use red Loctite.

I have one more stupid question. Which exact product is the red Loctite? It's not as easy to locate over here, so I need to order online. When I search for it, the results show about 10 different products!
Is it Loctite 271 - Red threadlock that I need?

Thanks!

[wiley-moeracing]

That will work, it goes by different names for mostly the same product, look to make sure it has a high heat rating and grease and oil resistant.