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  #1  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:03 PM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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Drip Rail Rust Opinions

So even though my wag received a new paint job by PO a few years ago rust is winning the war on my drip rails.
I was able to score some stainless trim on my recent trip back to Texas and after a $50 shipping fee I really want to put them on. Before I do I'm thinking I need to fix my rust problem ASAP. I'm really just looking for a 5 year fix until I can weld in and have the entire vehicle painted.

Here are my options as I see it:
1) Take it to a local body shop and pay to have the rust removed, holes filled with fiber-glass and get the entire roof repainted for $1K.
2) Removed the rust myself, por-15, fiber-glass, seam seal and repaint with custom matched aerosol. I'm thinking I can feather the paint and color sand since there's no clear coat on latest paint job.
3) Hoping you guys can give me more ideas.

Give me some opinions/experiences please!

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  #2  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:11 PM
91blaze 91blaze is offline
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I plan on using POR15 on mine, maybe the 2nd choice would be the best. It may not be the best looking solution but definitely better than paying 1k for the shop to do it.

How much would a new paint job cost? Maybe you can repair it yourself and then have it repainted. I guess it just depends on how much you have to spend and how much work you are willing to put into it.
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  #3  
Old 03-18-2014, 06:29 PM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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Wanted to bring this thread to the top for more opinions. I've been side tracked with life but I've got to get started on this. The rust is getting worse by the day.
I do have the ability to paint the car now but my rails are practically gone.
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  #4  
Old 03-18-2014, 07:23 PM
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addicted addicted is offline
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Cut them off, fill in the gap and have a nice smooth roof line.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:28 PM
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x2, only thing drip rails are good for close to the ocean is RUST.
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  #6  
Old 03-18-2014, 10:59 PM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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Anyone got any pictures of them removed?
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2014, 08:47 AM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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No pics, but as a body man, I really hate life when owners try to fix something without the knowledge of what they are doing. That said, if you have experience with welding and body repair, cut it out and go for it. If not it will be cheaper in the long run to have the "pros from Dover" do it.

Goingto have to cut out the bad stuff and get to good metal no matter what or it will just keep creeping.
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2014, 12:43 PM
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Woodchomper Woodchomper is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by goldhammer
No pics, but as a body man, I really hate life when owners try to fix something without the knowledge of what they are doing. That said, if you have experience with welding and body repair, cut it out and go for it. If not it will be cheaper in the long run to have the "pros from Dover" do it.

I totally agree with what you are saying but the problem with the "pros" is that you never really know what level of pro you are paying for. Unfortunately, shoddy work is not limited to owners fixing their own stuff.
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  #9  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:02 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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The OP's pictures are from 2012 - so it might pay to put pictures of your own issues up for discussion. Or better yet, start a new thread.

If I were determined to fix the rust, I would start by abrasive blasting the areas in question. That would give you an idea of what you have to work with, and remove the existing rust. Coatings over the rust are delaying measures at best - to fix it properly, you need to eliminate the rust and replace the damaged steel.

Look here for a good example of professional drip rail repair. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=182565
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:17 PM
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WHSII WHSII is offline
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Gold Hammer should comment on this.

I do not think fiberglass is the way to "Fix this" fiberglass fixes fiberglass. To put it over rotten metal is a poor patch. To "kill the rust" you have to remove it by blasting, wire brushing to a total clean level, or cut it out and weld in new metal.

I am no professional on this, but have done extensive research. Por is a great product, as are several other rust preventives, They work very well "if" you have all the rust removed, but if you research what the "body men do" they remove the rust and use an epoxy primer.

There are many ways to skin a cat, if really want to know how, you want to ask a cat skinner.

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/
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  #11  
Old 03-19-2014, 03:47 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Having done body work as a professional, fiberglass would be a big no-no on a roof!

Might just as well use duct tape or foil tape...
If ever in an accident or rollover you want the roof to be strong enough to not tear off or crush your noodle.

Only way to "fix" it is with new metal, cut out the rust and weld in new.
Can replicate the drip rail, or remove it.

For an idea on what's involved for the OP look @ this.
http://www.scottshotrods.com/56FordT...valInstall.asp
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  #12  
Old 03-19-2014, 08:51 PM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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Thanks everyone for the opinions. My situation is that I'm stationed in Hawaii and will be moving back to the mainland in 2 years. My welder and shop equipment are back home so I was just entertaining the idea of a stop-gap fix that will retard the rust for a few years.
If anyone wants to fly over with patch panels and a welder I'll pay for the plane ticket!
I do want to fix this correctly but I'm stuck here with limited resources and I realky dont trust the body guys here I've talked to.
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2014, 04:53 AM
rocklaurence rocklaurence is offline
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Take it to clean metal and then fill the area with Panel Epoxy. Not as good as replacing the rusted metal but stronger than filler and sandable.
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2014, 02:59 PM
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Pull the headliner and see how extensive the rust is on the inside. You need to remove the rust first and seeing the inside will help determine how much you need to remove. You have to cut back to good metal to treat it if you want to stop the rust. If you cover it any other way it will be back in a year or two. Good luck.
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  #15  
Old 03-20-2014, 05:14 PM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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If you are going to bring it back in a couple of years, pull the headliner, clean it as best you can, treat it, glass it over and paint it, even with a rattle can. That should hold you for that long. Since it has been around 2 years since the original post and pics, you are probably a little past economically saving that panel. When you get back to the mainland. look for a decent roof panel and replace the whole thing. You can grind out the spot welds all the way around after you pull the w/shield and rubber, then drill out the spot welds on the replacement and plug weld it on.

That should keep you dry during the monsoon season
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"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

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  #16  
Old 03-20-2014, 08:38 PM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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Thanks goldhammer. Still undecided. Either way I'll post some pics when I get started. Im scared of what I'm going to find when I start sanding. The inside does look ok. Had the headliner out 6 months ago.
I'm now keaning towards buying a new welder here and going for it. Just wished I could find a donor vehicle here.
Ned Flanders-ismNed Flanders-ismNed Flanders-ismNed Flanders-ism money pit. Would be better of ditching this and financing one from Wagonmaster...
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  #17  
Old 03-21-2014, 01:01 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Look at the underside, above the doors and qtr windows. Remove the seam sealer in the gutter for a look. Might be nothing to weld a new roof to.

You going to ship it back? Prolly cheaper to buy an unrusted one in the southwest.
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  #18  
Old 03-21-2014, 06:45 AM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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The good thing about my truck is that there is zero rust from the roof down. Underneath everything looks great. The islands are just rough on roofs and paint. I've had friends with 2-3 year-old cars get roof rust repaired under warranty. Dry roads but salty air.
The military ships one vehicle for free so I'm selling our other cars and will attempt to save my 91.
Dang Jeep. Finally a hobby more expensive than golf.
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  #19  
Old 03-21-2014, 01:28 PM
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goldhammer goldhammer is offline
 
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Yeah, not much into greens fees much over $45.00. Would love to play Bandon, but $100 is out of my reach.....And I'm only about 2 1/2 to 3 hours from there.
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ASE Master Collision Tech
"Beast" - 81 "S" W/T, 85-360, T-18, Lock-rite,wag alloys, 31-10.50 Pro Comp MT's, Warn 8274 in a fabbed bumper/deer strainer(tested and approved)

88 XJ, 3" lift, 31-10.50's, custom bumpers and winch/tow bar mounts, Warn 9500HS, custom sliders/steps, camo paint, & headliner

Member: FSJ Prissy Restoration Assoc.
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  #20  
Old 03-22-2014, 01:18 AM
ssihodgson ssihodgson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldhammer
Yeah, not much into greens fees much over $45.00. Would love to play Bandon, but $100 is out of my reach.....And I'm only about 2 1/2 to 3 hours from there.

Fly out here for rust repair and golf. Tons of military courses for $35.
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