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Old 05-05-2017, 12:02 PM
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Just ordered a new Water pump, any advice?

I had a coolant leak and traced it up to a pin hole in my lower radiator hose. When I removed the hose to replace it, a nice big chunk of the water pump lower hose nipple came off with the hose. Sweet. Thanks. I needed that.

I used the search function and found the overwhelming bit of advice was to buy the GMB aluminum pump part number 1101040AL so I ordered one from Rock Auto and it gets here next week.

I have installed many water pumps over the years and read my service manual and it all looks pretty straight forward. Drain, Remove hoses, remove everything in the way. remove pump (insuring all the bolts stay in their respective holes), clean mounting surfaces, clean threads on bolts and block, put new gasket on (dry on both surfaces), install pump to torque specs, put everything back together and wait for something else to break.

Any other advice to watch out for? I read something about pumps rubbing on the blocks and something about using form-a-gasket on some of the bolts...
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:54 PM
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I just put on the GMB aluminum pump. The iron ones apparently have the clearance issues; the aluminum ones do not.

On my Sanden-AC version, had to remove the alternator, then the AC and alternator brackets. AC compressor flipped over, out of the way -- so no need to evacuate the system or remove any hoses. Power steering pump required loosening all three bolts holding it to the block, and sliding the front bracket out enough to clear the stud on the front of the pump. I put a bolt back in the far right (driver side) bracket mount hole to keep it all in place.

Take a cardboard box, and trace the outline of the water pump. Mark the hole locations and punch a small hole in the cardboard at each bolt hole location. As you remove bolts (AND SPACERS -- DO NOT MISPLACE THE SPACERS), put them in the respective locations on your cardboard box. Clean them one at a time and put them back in the right hole (or clean them before you put them in place through the box). Then as you are installing the pump, pull each bolt out and put it back in the same position in the new water pump.

I used the gasket included, spraying each side with three thin coats of Permatex copper gasket-in-a-can. No leaks after a week.

Put the power steering bracket back in place, then the AC compressor, then the alternator bracket. Re-installed fan, then the shroud.
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:24 AM
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TexasJ10 TexasJ10 is offline
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Be careful removing the small bolts that hold the pump to the timing cover. They are prone to breaking if they have been in there for a while.
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Old 05-06-2017, 11:00 AM
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Great reminder. I soaked the bolt heads and the space between the pump and the cover liberally with PB Blaster. Then if I didn't get that nice little "pop" when loosening them, I would tighten them about 1/8 of a turn, then back it out 1/4. Tighten 1/8, back out 1/4. Key is to work them gently back and forth -- don't keep cranking in one direction. Didn't break a bolt this time.
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Old 05-06-2017, 08:52 PM
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COpy all, guys. I appreciate the responses. I'll spray some PB Blaster on it the night before I remove the water pump. I would assume my pump has been on there for decades considering how corroded it was when the nipple crumbled off.
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:01 PM
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heat on the small bolts greatly reduces risk of breaking. Hit them with propane torch before attempting if you're worried.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:31 PM
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Swapped them this weekend. Here's the old one! EGADS! it's a GMP pump (has their logo and "JAPAN" embossed on the housing. This thing is GRRRRoooooosssss!

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Old 05-30-2017, 09:11 PM
yossarian19 yossarian19 is offline
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I'm not looking forward to this.
I've been spraying down one of the pump to cover bolts for a long time now, still one that isn't coming loose. I guess heat & wax is the next stop but I suspect, in the end, I'm just going to break it & fix it.
Good thread.
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:08 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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Good job gettin' that done, especially if ya didn't break anything! I'm a little surprised how corroded that is. Even my cooling system isn't near that bad. Now everything else outside of the engine... well that's another story!
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:47 PM
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Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 is offline
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I'd hate to see what your aluminum timing cover looks like. EGADs is right! That looks to be the product of typical Californian maintenance (running straight water/no anti-freeze coolant)
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:34 PM
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Totally! My timing cover was very pitted but seems to be holding (so far). I am worried about how the inside of my block/heads look.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:27 AM
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What's up with that? PO run straight water?

My iron pump had pretty significant rust (slightly more than just surface rust) on the outside, but inside looked brand new. Inlet/outlet had no rust at all.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yossarian19
I've been spraying down one of the pump to cover bolts for a long time now, still one that isn't coming loose. I guess heat & wax is the next stop but I suspect, in the end, I'm just going to break it & fix it.
Good thread.

Heat it, and tighten it a tiny bit (like 1/32 of a turn). Heat it again, and if it moves at all, try working it back and forth.

Heat (and a little tightening) is the key.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:40 AM
NO6YHY NO6YHY is offline
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Curious to know how you handled the 7/8" heater hose nipple. The bypass hose Dorman makes has formed ends for the 7/8" nipple, but no special heater hoses available anymore. I took a 3/4" hose and spent some time pushing it on. Not the best longterm solution I hear, but I have too many other projects/too little money to make it better right now.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:15 AM
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Funny you should ask. I had the same question a few months ago...

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=181360
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:44 AM
NO6YHY NO6YHY is offline
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Haha, yeah I think I read that thread when I did the work. Small world.

I think the best solution is to buy an extra bypass hose, cut off about 4 inches, clamp the formed end to the water pump, then use a 3/4" splice to connect it to the 3/4" heater hose. Maybe I'll get around to doing this.
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:50 AM
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Thats what hapens after years of filling up the radiator with a garden hose with or without coolant. Especially if theres a lot of minerals in your water.

X2 on the permatex to stick the gasket. And put anti-sieze on the bolts and torque them down. I played that game a few years ago in 20 degree weather. Fun times.
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Old 06-03-2017, 11:57 AM
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I am really impressed with that Permatex copper spray -- it was the first time I had used it. A couple of light coats and it had a nice tack to it -- but added virtually no bulk to the gasket, either.
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