How to rear shackle flip 72 j4000?

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  • brentwood
    232 I6
    • Oct 01, 2015
    • 145

    How to rear shackle flip 72 j4000?

    I ordered a pair of 4in front lift springs from alcan. And would like to do a shackle flip in rear.
    How do you do a rear shackle flip on a 72 j4000?
    Any special parts needed?
    1982 Wagoneer w/258, Rusty's 4in spring lift, motorcraft 2100, 32x11.5x15 bfg's *sold*

    1972 J4000 Chevy 350, th350, divorced Dana 20, Holley carb, alcan 4in springs, 35in BFGs on 15in slots

    1978 J10 golden eagle w/Levis interior, 401and th400, Edelbrock avs2, 32x11.5 falken rubitreks on stock golden eagle wheels
  • Kaiserjeeps
    360 AMC
    • Oct 02, 2002
    • 2808

    #2
    I would do it with a correct set of springs. Or spring and lift block combo. The shackle flip is not a good idea for two reasons. One is with enough articulation the shackle can flip back up to it's factory position and next thing you know is one side of your truck will be squatting needing to be set back to how you had it. Second is it will raise your pinion completely taking your U-joints out of phase. By 8 plus degrees actually. That will make a terrible vibration. I just went through all this with the 70 wagoneer in my build thread. I have not updated my posts to reflect my incorrect assembly of hanging the rear shackle under the pin. I was 8.3 degrees out. I fixed it and now I am inside 1 degree out.
    Hell creek is the only company that makes a lift for the J trucks if I remember correctly. They are expensive but you get it right the first time. Maybe BJ's sells a lift kit too. I am not sure.
    Anyway, my 1.5 cents worth.
    Melford1972 says...
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    -----------------------
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    1969 CJ-5 41 years owned
    1969 1414X Wag in avocado mist
    1970 1414X Wag in avocado mist
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    • brentwood
      232 I6
      • Oct 01, 2015
      • 145

      #3
      Better to leave the lift blocks that came on truck than rear shackle flip?
      1982 Wagoneer w/258, Rusty's 4in spring lift, motorcraft 2100, 32x11.5x15 bfg's *sold*

      1972 J4000 Chevy 350, th350, divorced Dana 20, Holley carb, alcan 4in springs, 35in BFGs on 15in slots

      1978 J10 golden eagle w/Levis interior, 401and th400, Edelbrock avs2, 32x11.5 falken rubitreks on stock golden eagle wheels

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      • #4
        Lift kits come with lift blocks instead of shackle flips for a reason. Often times a shackle flip isn't possible at all, but in the cases where it is, it's not the stablest option. OEMs don't tend to run that way either, for that reason.


        If you can avoid the flip, that would be the safer bet.
        1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

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        • brentwood
          232 I6
          • Oct 01, 2015
          • 145

          #5
          Understood, thanks.
          I'll leave the blocks while I save up for rear springs.
          1982 Wagoneer w/258, Rusty's 4in spring lift, motorcraft 2100, 32x11.5x15 bfg's *sold*

          1972 J4000 Chevy 350, th350, divorced Dana 20, Holley carb, alcan 4in springs, 35in BFGs on 15in slots

          1978 J10 golden eagle w/Levis interior, 401and th400, Edelbrock avs2, 32x11.5 falken rubitreks on stock golden eagle wheels

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          • 44BZ
            304 AMC
            • Dec 10, 2009
            • 1570

            #6
            My 68 J2000 has the rear shackles flipped down. I've had no issues with vibrations, binding, or flipping back at all. Been that way since I bought it, 9 years ago. I don't see the problem.
            Zack - 68 J2000, AMC 327, 4bbl intake, dual exhaust, Pertronix upgrade, Holley 600cfm, T18, dana 20 (twin sticked), 3" body lift w/ 35x12.50 MTRs ~ running AND driving!

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