Cracked Brake Rotor

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  • Driftwood
    350 Buick
    • Jun 12, 2000
    • 959

    Cracked Brake Rotor

    So I discovered this......

    It is my front left brake rotor CRACKED IN 2 PLACES.

    Anyone know of quality replacement rotors?

    I want to avoid the cheap Chinese product.

    1979 Wagoneer
  • 440sixpack
    327 Rambler
    • Jul 21, 2016
    • 612

    #2
    Wow that's unusual.

    Raybestos I think still makes them and most of the time they're domestic. if they aren't probably nobody does.

    Comment

    • Ristow
      • Jan 20, 2006
      • 17292

      #3
      i'll second Raybestos. even if it is chinese they do have at least a bit of a quality benchmark the parts need to meet.




      change the caliper too! you have a a heat issue there,likely a sticking caliper.
      Originally posted by Hankrod
      Ristows right.................again,


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


      Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
      I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

      It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

      Comment

      • Tripwire
        AMC 4 OH! 1
        • Jul 30, 2000
        • 4656

        #4
        wow i have never heard of that....that one has to hang on the wall of shame
        Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

        86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

        88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

        Comment

        • Driftwood
          350 Buick
          • Jun 12, 2000
          • 959

          #5
          Replacement difficulty level 5?

          Do all of the studs need to be pressed out to separate the rotor from the hub?

          Seems like a lot of parts. I'm certain I will lose some of them or brake something.

          1979 Wagoneer

          Comment

          • Mikel
            • Aug 09, 2000
            • 6330

            #6
            Engineers who put rotors behind the hubs make me very angry
            1969 M715 6x6
            1963 J300 Swivel frame

            Comment

            • Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
              Cherokee Outlaw
              • Jan 10, 2006
              • 7292

              #7
              Yes, the lug studs will need to be pressed out and pressed back in. I usually use a large hammer and punch to get them out and I usually replace them since they have over 30 years of fatigue on them. To reinstall, I have a lug stud installation tool from Lisle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22..._itMNBbB7H9X6Q
              -Jonny B.
              1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
              7" Alcan springs, BJ's HD shackles - 35x12.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
              AMC 401 - Pro-Flo 4 EFI
              NV4500/NWF BB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
              F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
              R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker

              1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
              1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts
              1979 Wagoneer - Sold
              1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed

              Comment

              • Driftwood
                350 Buick
                • Jun 12, 2000
                • 959

                #8
                Ain't that peachy.

                Well at least I have the socket to remove the outer and inner lock nuts.

                Originally posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
                Yes, the lug studs will need to be pressed out and pressed back in. I usually use a large hammer and punch to get them out and I usually replace them since they have over 30 years of fatigue on them. To reinstall, I have a lug stud installation tool from Lisle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22..._itMNBbB7H9X6Q
                1979 Wagoneer

                Comment

                • Driftwood
                  350 Buick
                  • Jun 12, 2000
                  • 959

                  #9
                  So after watching a few youtube videos, Should I punch out/loosen the studs prior to removing the hub and rotor assembly first?

                  Or is there enough clearance on the backside of the rotor that I can lay the hub and rotor assembly on the garage floor and knock them out.

                  I was surprised to realize that I have NEVER had to remove and replace front rotors before in 23 years of owning 3 different wags.
                  1979 Wagoneer

                  Comment

                  • wiley-moeracing
                    350 Buick
                    • Feb 15, 2010
                    • 1430

                    #10
                    Pull rotors off and removed all bearings and seals, lay rotor and hub assembly with hub facing up on the concrete floor and use hammer and punch and drive studs out. Swap rotors and install new studs, best if you have access to a press, or I have used a couple of slightly oversized washers with plenty off good grease all over them and a lug nut backwards of a grade 8 fine thread nut and draw them on. I usually will line the studs up in the hubs with the grooves already cut in and slightly tap them in for alignment purposes. or you can go to Napa, Autozone or Oreillys and rent a stud installer or take rotors to a shop and have them pressed in.

                    Comment

                    • SlowGear
                      232 I6
                      • Jan 12, 2013
                      • 93

                      #11
                      I recently replaced my rotors and found knocking the studs out was a breeze but pressing them back in - not so much.
                      I used the Lisle tool with Dorman lug studs 610-179 and found the tool barely left enough room to get the sacrificial lug nut on the stud.
                      I ended up ruining a couple of the studs and the spare lug nuts I used didn't fare much better.
                      In the end it worked okay but if you have a shop that can press them in that might be a better route.
                      Mike

                      88 Grand Wagoneer
                      Bone stock - except the missing stuff

                      Comment

                      • Driftwood
                        350 Buick
                        • Jun 12, 2000
                        • 959

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ristow
                        change the caliper too! you have a a heat issue there,likely a sticking caliper.
                        Yes, a few years ago I was having brake issues with this caliper.
                        The piston would seize, the pads would drag, and stuff smelled hot.
                        Due to very limited personal time, I had this caliper and its pads replaced by a shop which no longer exists. I'm not going to make any assumptions or guesses. It is what it is. I'll probably have a local shop do the lug work for me. I'm no expert and work consumes my time. My goal is to have the work done with all new studded tires mounted on spare rims ready for this winter.

                        I'm sure this winter will be a doozy.....says Farmers Almanac.
                        1979 Wagoneer

                        Comment

                        • Driftwood
                          350 Buick
                          • Jun 12, 2000
                          • 959

                          #13
                          I was able to remove the outer locknut because I had the proper four prong socket tool.

                          Any idea how too remove the lock washer in the hub assembly?

                          It has machined holes around it. So I'm assuming there is a proper pronged socket tool for removing it.



                          1979 Wagoneer

                          Comment

                          • Driftwood
                            350 Buick
                            • Jun 12, 2000
                            • 959

                            #14
                            Never mind.

                            YouTube answered it for me.

                            Dismantling the Front Hub on a Dana 44 Axle - Bronco, Jeep, etc.
                            1979 Wagoneer

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              A pair of needle nose pliers is all you need to remove that lock washer. It's just a locating washer to keep the inner locknut in place.


                              aa
                              1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

                              Comment

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