Delayed cold start

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  • dadd2009
    232 I6
    • Oct 02, 2010
    • 39

    Delayed cold start

    Over the last couple of weeks my Wagoneer has been starting "late" when cold. I turn the key on, elec fuel pump runs, radio comes on and then when I go to start it.........nothing for about 3-5 seconds then it starts as usual. After it warms up it starts with no delay at all, as it should. I'm assuming a bad elec connection somewhere, but where? Then again, assumption is the mother of all F-ups.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!
    1984 Grand Wagoneer
    UGLY, with 360, 727 and NP229.
    Mods: All aluminum radiator, HEI, CS144
    Future Mods: Rebuild heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, aluminum intake, 4 barrel, SOA & 33's
  • Rich88
    AMC 4 OH! 1
    • Nov 20, 2008
    • 4182

    #2
    Originally posted by dadd2009
    Over the last couple of weeks my Wagoneer has been starting "late" when cold. I turn the key on, elec fuel pump runs, radio comes on and then when I go to start it.........nothing for about 3-5 seconds then it starts as usual. After it warms up it starts with no delay at all, as it should. I'm assuming a bad elec connection somewhere, but where? Then again, assumption is the mother of all F-ups.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!
    Normally between the choke plate closing and a pump or two of gas does the trick. But evidently something changed on its own recently. Most likely thing to change on its own would be the accelerator pump in the carb has a ruptured diaphragm and is not squirting the "starter" gas, or not as much.
    Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
    88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
    "You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."

    Comment

    • dadd2009
      232 I6
      • Oct 02, 2010
      • 39

      #3
      I should explain a little better. After the key is on, pump running, etc. When I go to start, there is nothing electrical happening. It doesn't turn over, no pump running, then after holding the key for 3-5 sec it just starts turning over and starts like normal.
      1984 Grand Wagoneer
      UGLY, with 360, 727 and NP229.
      Mods: All aluminum radiator, HEI, CS144
      Future Mods: Rebuild heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, aluminum intake, 4 barrel, SOA & 33's

      Comment

      • Rich88
        AMC 4 OH! 1
        • Nov 20, 2008
        • 4182

        #4
        Originally posted by dadd2009
        I should explain a little better. After the key is on, pump running, etc. When I go to start, there is nothing electrical happening. It doesn't turn over, no pump running, then after holding the key for 3-5 sec it just starts turning over and starts like normal.
        Oh-h-h...that's different.

        If this happened to me, I'd start by doing this next time its cold and you have some time:

        With an alligator clip at the starter relay on the fender, jumper between the main 12V post and the starter terminal that the wire from the ignition switch normally goes to. Specifically, clip one end to the 12V post and just tap the other end on the starter terminal. Basically you're bypassing the ignition switch.

        If the starter immediately bumps then you've proven the ignition switch is on its way out. If it does not bump, leave it in contact for a while to see if you still have the delay before the starter lights off. If this happens I'd replace the starter relay.
        Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
        88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
        "You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."

        Comment

        • Ristow
          • Jan 20, 2006
          • 17292

          #5
          i'm on my 2nd napa premium solenoid that does the same thing. it's the solenoid. on mine if i crank too long-like 5+ seconds it sticks on too.
          Originally posted by Hankrod
          Ristows right.................again,


          Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
          ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


          Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
          I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

          It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

          Comment

          • dadd2009
            232 I6
            • Oct 02, 2010
            • 39

            #6
            Thanks for the replies Rich & Ristow. I'll do that test either tomorrow or Mon and post the results here. I sure hope it's the solenoid. It's only a year old but I bought the lifetime replacement version from O'rielly's. I've been learning over the years to spend the extra money for the guaranteed version of products just because "they don't make them like they used to".
            1984 Grand Wagoneer
            UGLY, with 360, 727 and NP229.
            Mods: All aluminum radiator, HEI, CS144
            Future Mods: Rebuild heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, aluminum intake, 4 barrel, SOA & 33's

            Comment

            • Romanov
              232 I6
              • Feb 27, 2012
              • 64

              #7
              When it is cold here, it is like -60. I have noticed that even in my wife's rig, 2008 Forrester, the same thing will happen, same is true for my truck. Turn the key to start, 3 to 5 second delay, starter turns and engine catches. Is it frozen lubricant in the switch, expanded plastic making the contacts slow, my gloved fingers making it difficult to turn the key, I really do not know? It doesn't ever happen in the summer, the other 11.5 months of the year if it gets below say -30 or so it will . But just like you when I restart my rig, no problem, unless she has been off for 30 minutes or so. Maybe a PO used a heavy grease in your switch.

              Comment

              • dadd2009
                232 I6
                • Oct 02, 2010
                • 39

                #8
                I did do that test and it was the solenoid. It took me over a month to fix it though because the day after I started this thread I bought a motorcycle.
                1984 Grand Wagoneer
                UGLY, with 360, 727 and NP229.
                Mods: All aluminum radiator, HEI, CS144
                Future Mods: Rebuild heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, aluminum intake, 4 barrel, SOA & 33's

                Comment

                • serehill
                  Gone,Never Forgotten.
                  • Nov 22, 2009
                  • 8619

                  #9
                  lol n the motor cycle I went through 3 of thr NAPA premiums & gave up.

                  I'm a NAPA fan so that is dissappointing.

                  I went back to Napa & ordered an Airtex1M1054 so far so good.
                  Last edited by serehill; 05-13-2012, 08:53 AM.

                  80 Cherokee
                  360 ci 727 with
                  Comp cams 270 h
                  NP208
                  Edlebrock performer intake
                  Holley 4180
                  Msd total multi spark.
                  4" rusty's springs
                  Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

                  If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

                  Comment

                  • Rich88
                    AMC 4 OH! 1
                    • Nov 20, 2008
                    • 4182

                    #10
                    Originally posted by serehill
                    I'm a NAPA fan so that is dissappointing.

                    I went back to Napa & ordered an Airtex1M1054 so far so good.
                    Oooo.... I know: Put three of 'em in parallel. One of them's bound to work.
                    Jeepasaurus (Wagonus Grandi quadropedus)
                    88 GW 360-.030 over/2150/727/229/Posi, e-pump, AC (broke), tow package, Monroe Air Shocks, TFI, CTO-Free, AIR-free, oil & tranny coolers, dried knuckle blood all over, GM 350 TBI in a box, waiting...
                    "You're an FSJ'r when the parts guys memorize your name, phone & credit card#."

                    Comment

                    • FSJunkie
                      The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
                      • Jan 09, 2011
                      • 4040

                      #11
                      I have a solenoid from O'Reilly's and it's been working fine for over a year now even with the way mine boils the gas in the carb. You guys might try one from them and see if they work for you.
                      '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

                      I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

                      Comment

                      • dadd2009
                        232 I6
                        • Oct 02, 2010
                        • 39

                        #12
                        Originally posted by FSJunkie
                        I have a solenoid from O'Reilly's and it's been working fine for over a year now even with the way mine boils the gas in the carb. You guys might try one from them and see if they work for you.
                        That's where mine was/is from. Part # BWD S113, lifetime warranty. First one lasted 9 months, we'll see how long this one lasts.
                        1984 Grand Wagoneer
                        UGLY, with 360, 727 and NP229.
                        Mods: All aluminum radiator, HEI, CS144
                        Future Mods: Rebuild heads, cam, lifters, timing chain, aluminum intake, 4 barrel, SOA & 33's

                        Comment

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