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  #81  
Old 10-21-2019, 09:22 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
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it is politically incorrect to say it about a human these days

but can I say the truck has a nice "Arse" ????.......

can't believe how much difference that roll pan makes it look.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #82  
Old 10-22-2019, 10:05 AM
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chubbinius chubbinius is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 127
That really looks sharp! Nicely done...is it odd to think that it will be exciting to see it all shiny after a good wash? (Hope not, because I am; it's a good looking truck!)
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  #83  
Old 10-22-2019, 12:42 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 957
Well, it won't ever be fully shiny because the paint is a satin finish...but it should look a lot better and more even when the white/light grey dust and smudges are gone.

A decade ago when I started messing with the look of this thing I was wanting something that didn't look like all the restified '70s C10 Chevys, but without making modifications that are irreversible. That limits what can be done to clean it up. For example, I think the rear of the bed would look better if the roll pan dropped down another six inches....that would make the rear end look more substantial. But I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to blend that in with the fenders without changing the way they curve inward at the bottom. If the fender radius dropped more vertical, then a set of super wide Micky Thompson tires would look good. But they would not look right with those fenders sweeping inward at the bottom as they do. Here's an old photo from a magazine that I ran cross long after I did the original mod of the truck 10-12 years ago. The concept photo is along the same lines of what I was wanting to do. But again, it can't be done without some surgery that I don't want to perform. I'd never find buyer...certainly not in the FSJ off road community.

jeeprod1 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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  #84  
Old 10-22-2019, 03:39 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is online now
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
jeeprod1 by Rufus, on Flickr
I like yours better. I think your stance is better, your front bumper/roll pan looks better, the "scoop" above your grill looks better, and your side pipes look more timeless. The only thing that truck has over yours is the supercharger poking out the hood.
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  #85  
Old 10-22-2019, 05:40 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Kind words, thank you very much.

Here's an end of day photo from the driver side, which I rarely capture these days. Everything except the six sheet metal braces (4 on the bed and the two on front fenders) is now bolted down. Even installed the license plate, which adds just a little accent at the rear. The front roll pan goes back on tomorrow and then it's on to the interior. I'll need to send out a search party to find the AC unit....

DSCN1846 (3) by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 10-22-2019 at 06:01 PM.
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  #86  
Old 10-22-2019, 06:25 PM
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rws31 rws31 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 10, 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 111
I say just build it how you want to. Especially if your building it to drive and enjoy. It's lookin good.
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  #87  
Old 10-23-2019, 03:43 PM
gilbedw gilbedw is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Feb 15, 2019
Location: Bridgeport, TX
Posts: 7
Very nice truck.
I am curious and would like to know how you reinstalled and adjusted all the body parts. Which ones did you install first. Any tricks or problems you encountered. I am mixing and matching better parts on my 81 Cherokee project and will be faced with shimming and adjusting the replacement parts.
Thanks
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  #88  
Old 10-23-2019, 05:46 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 957
gilbedw, All of the front sheet metal is tied to the inner valance (the sheet metal assembly with the radiator support posts). As you probably know, those support posts sit on rubber bushings. If the rubber bushings are the same thickness and positioned directly over the mounting holes in the frame, then everything else should line up pretty well. So...first that valance piece, then the inner fenders, then the outer valence, then the fenders, then the doors. I mounted all the pieces fairly loosely with just a couple of bolts so that I could nudge things around. It's really just trial and error. By the way, there are small holes for alignment pins at the forward top corners of the fenders.

Since I was messing around with changing the rake of the body on the frame, I also used a dial angle indicator (Harbor Freight) to get the cab, the front fenders, and the bed at the same angle. That involved sectioning the rubber cab donuts, and the rubber under the radiator support posts among other things. If the donuts under your cab are unevenly deformed you might have to do a bit of shimming there. The hood on mine is still slightly out of whack, and I think it's because the perimeter of the early stamping (which I selected because of the crisp shape of the center bulge and the "scoop opening") is slightly different than the later hood. Still working on that. Driver side door also needs a tweak.

Anyway, here are today's photos (still not washed). I had repainted the front roll pan and changed the mounting system, so it had to be reinstalled. The trim at the back edge of the cab (now painted black)was also installed. I took it for a drive and nothing fell off...guess I'll call it good enough for now. It gets a lot of double takes and curious looks. I have about six months of fairly steady effort invested since I took it apart last winter (took the summer off). Interior is next.

DSCN1847 (2) by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1849 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1850 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 10-23-2019 at 06:05 PM.
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  #89  
Old 10-24-2019, 07:58 AM
gilbedw gilbedw is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Feb 15, 2019
Location: Bridgeport, TX
Posts: 7
Thanks Towtruck That helps a lot
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  #90  
Old 10-24-2019, 10:57 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is online now
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,811
Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); ...
When you channeled the body (assuming YOU channeled the body), did you do a build thread on it? Did you loose footwell space?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
...roll pans, ...goose neck and bumper hitches.
Did you remove the goose neck and bumper hitchES? I see the bracket for the rear hitch below your license plate but I don't see another one...

Look at the difference in the black in these 2 pictures! WOW!!! When you look at them next to each other, the first picture looks like grey primer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
[/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2diecMe]

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  #91  
Old 10-24-2019, 01:03 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 957
Yes, I did the body channel. No, I did not do a specific "how to" thread, but I have answered questions along the way. No there are not changes to basic cab dimensions...leg room, for example. The cab sheet metal is untouched.

Here are the basics... Remove the outer facia panel (the one with the grill and lights), remove the doors, remove the fenders, remove the radiator, remove the inner facia/valance (whatever it's called....the one with the radiator support brackets). Do not remove the hood. Cut out the spot welds holding the vertical "posts" to the inner facia panel. Attach clamps in place of the welds and reinstall the post/facia assembly. (You're eventually going to adjust the height of that panel (lower) on the posts such that hood will still close while clearing the air cleaner). But you can't do that until you have the cab/body roughly where you want it. So, place jacks at the corners of the cab or body for the SUV, and remove the rubber donuts. Now start lowering and adjusting the rake angle with the jacks. Set an angle and lower the hood. Keep adjusting the cab angle in combination with that forward facia/valence/cross piece (where the hood latches are located) until the hood to air cleaner clearance is adequate and the hood cab angle lines up). At some point the posts will be sticking up and hinder hood closure, and the inner fenders will contact the frame rails. Trim accordingly. Note that the radiator cap is also going to hinder hood closure....so when you think you have the air cleaner housing clearance set, clamp the radiator to the posts. It will have to be located lower. Interference with the steering box is the limiting factor for the radiator. I should note that if you get to very high rake angles the radiator will have to be tilted rearward at the top to clear an under hood cross brace. ...easy to accomplish with spacers.


Again, there no modifications to the floor panels on my truck. The front donuts under the cab are completely removed and replaced with thin nylon washers to eliminate metal to metal contact. The rear donuts are about 1/2-3/4" thick. The lower sheet metal on the rear of the cab clears the frame rails by about 1/2". Very close. I did have to "persuade" the passenger side exhaust heat shield (not the floor boards) just a bit (maybe 1/2") during the last lowering evolution because it was contacting the frame. Absolutely no cutting or bending of the basic cab sheet metal. The floor clears the T-18 and the transfer case by about an inch. The only other adjustment was for the clutch release mechanism (no cutting, grinding or welding).

When everything is where you want it, either weld, or drill holes and bolt the inner facia and radiator to their new locations on the (shortened) posts.

For my pickup, the bed mounts/shims didn't change all that much...shimmed just enough to align the angle with what I did to the cab. By the way, it's difficult to detect, but the cab now sits lower relative to the bed....same angles, but at different heights. I think it looks better with the cab sitting lower on the frame because the geeky tall cab appears to be shorter...sort of an illusion...better balance for the overall assemblage...easier than chopping the top. That said, the bed looks easy to lower a bit if you're willing to cut and reweld the forward support leg/platform. I don't have much space because of the 3/4" steel plate for the goose neck ball.

I can provide measurements of where the radiator and the inner valance are now located on the support posts if anyone is interested. But it's for a step side pick up with 360 /Edelbrock Performer manifold/T18/208. The extent of what can be achieved with another combination will likely vary, although I'd think a short bed fleet side pickup would be similar to my step side. To get it any lower would require suspension changes. I think I could get away with a 1" block at the front and still have adequate pumpkin/oil pan clearance for a street truck (not so safe, but I've seen it done). The rear could be dropped by raising the forward spring mount in combination with a slightly longer shackle. Maybe 1" max. Going up is much easier than lowering.

The goose neck plate is still welded to the frame, and the hole in the bed floor for the screw-on ball is still there. I have a piece of corrugated floor and will fabricate a snug fitting blanking plate for the hole. Support tabs for the plate were welded onto the bed before painting. I've thought about removing that hitch bracket under the roll pan and welding a receiver hitch behind the horizontal frame "C" beam . Punch a square hole through the license plate area of the roll pan and the frame beam. Then weld the receiver box into the frame with some extra structural bracing. Remove the license plate to stick the ball/bar into the square receiver hole. Mount the license plate to the tailgate with magnets when towing.

Yes, the truck looked nasty when that epoxy started to fail from UV. I decided to take it to the blaster when surface rust began to appear on the hood and roof. A lot of work and expense, but I hated to see it beginning to seriously deteriorate.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 10-24-2019 at 02:42 PM.
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  #92  
Old 10-26-2019, 04:55 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 957
I started on the interior today. Found the AC evaporator...but one adjustable cold air vent is missing and another is broken. It was last installed about 15 years ago. If anyone has those vents to sell or has a lead, I'd appreciate it. (I placed an ad in the Wanted Section).

The headliner card is toast...38 years isn't bad. Bought one from BJs rather than trying to make one. $230 upholstered, free shipping.

Once I have those parts the reassembly should only take a few days. I'm thinking of fabricating a hinged bed cover to finish it off. A 4x8 sheet of marine Nidacore should work...very stiff and light. I have a pair of trunk hinges off an old Bitter SC that I saved for this purpose.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 10-26-2019 at 05:43 PM.
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  #93  
Old 11-04-2019, 05:50 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 957
I found all of the AC parts a few days ago and cleaned, primed and painted with the special coating recommended for vinyl and plastic. When I tried to fit the evaporator it was blocked by some sheet metal behind the right half of the dash. Recall that I had fabricated a custom dash with the right half being from an early truck. So I had to trim sheet metal behind the dash in a couple of places, and also drill new mounting holes along the lower edge since the early donor truck never had AC. Minor stuff. It now fits perfectly. Good thing I transferred the right side defroster vent to the old dash section as the AC would have never fit.

Today I located all of the wires that power the heater and AC fans, and the AC clutch. I still need to flush the (134A compatible) hoses and components before hooking it up. But before taking that step, I checked the heater controls for proper operation. Discovered that the flapper cable for the temperature control lever on the heater panel is seized, and the vacuum hoses on the push button controls are rotten. Best approach for the repairs was to remove the instrument cluster for access. It will also be cleaned up, detailed, and checked for burned out bulbs before reinstallation. The heater cable is currently soaking in a bath of Evaporust to see if it can be salvaged. If I can free it up, I'll lube it with Boeshield T9 and reinstall....otherwise a new cable. By the way, the truck starts and runs fine without the dash if you connect the two ammeter wires together.

Need to paint that steering wheel hub. Still waiting on the head liner from BJs...no hurry, actually.

DSCN1854 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1858 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1857 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 11-04-2019 at 06:03 PM.
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  #94  
Old 11-09-2019, 07:26 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Location: Arlington, Texas
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Post

Yesterday I checked all the bulbs in the instrument panel (replaced one burn out). Cleaned the printed circuit board and verified that the back lighting is functioning correctly. That LED converter/driver came in handy as a 12V power source for the testing. One of the bezels had come loose from the shroud, so I glue that back in place. The panel is now ready to reinstall after the AC system goes in. By the way, the Evaporust soak for the stuck heater cable worked like a champ...operates like new.

Today I cleaned/flushed the evaporator, condenser, and hoses. The radiator had to come out to remove the condenser. I was going to try flushing it in the vehicle, but decided the riser on the bottom fitting would make it difficult to get the cleaning fluid removed, even with a compressed air blow. Anyway, all the items were pretty clean to begin with. Looked like a little old oil came out in the flush...no solids...good news. I used two cans of the flush fluid (spray can with a built-in applicator hose). Blew it out with dry compressed air and left parts in sun to dry. I'll blow everything out again in the morning. The vacuum suck down should take care of any residual moisture. As it turned out, the radiator had to be removed to get at the mounting screws for the new accumulator/drier anyway, so pulling the radiator and condenser made sense for that reason.

Tomorrow I'll change the oil in the compressor since it's been dormant for over a decade. It spins freely, and seems to have suction, so I'm hoping I won't need a new one. (This one was changed out back when I did the 134 conversion). After the oil change I'll start putting it all back together. If it goes well, I might have time to evacuate the system and charge it up.

DSCN1859 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1864 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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  #95  
Old Yesterday, 06:53 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
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Location: Arlington, Texas
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Changed the oil in the compressor by sucking the old out with a syringe. Condenser, accumulator, and radiator are installed (new bottom radiator hose and new antifreeze). Held off on the evaporator because it was still dripping flush fluid....dammit The can says it's fast evaporating...it's not. I'll finish assembly tomorrow and at least get it evacuated...might be too cold to charge it.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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  #96  
Old Today, 09:52 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,297
I'd hook up the air hose to the condenser and leave a slow purge on it for a while. Maybe use a heat gun on it or a flood light with a 100W bulb up close.
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  #97  
Old Today, 10:26 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Join Date: Feb 15, 2010
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,087
Just leave the vacuum pump on the system for 30-60 minutes, this will pull all the moisture out of the system.
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  #98  
Old Today, 11:32 AM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Thanks, Gents. That Arctic air mass slammed into North Texas this morning, so I just put the evaporator in an upstairs bedroom for a few days. I think it will be dry by the time it warms up around here, but as suggested, I'll leave it on the vacuum pump for an extended period.

I have a hypothetic question, though. Let's say I finish reassembly, pull the system down with the vacuum pump....and then that long dormant compressor turns out to be dead, or near dead when I release freon into the system? What do I do then? Could I somehow lock in the Freon that I had released into the system? Or maybe better yet is there a way to check the pumping condition of the currently installed compressor before I finish hooking up the hoses? As I said, I have a gage set and an electric vacuum pump. Thanks
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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